Gauging Interest for a VIABLE TVS 2300 Option
06-20-2012, 11:19 AM
#22
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I see what you are saying now. So you actually can replace the 112 with this unit as long as you take the entire 112 off including the lower intake manifold and intercooler.
So if you get the E-force head unit with the inlet tube, injectors, and tensioner, you will probably need to re-route some hoses and maybe re-wire some sensors, but you would already have the hex and intercooler pump mounted and ready to go, and a boost a pump already installed (if you're using one).
If you're saying the pulley will line up correctly, and it fits under the hood OK, I don't see much of an issue getting this to work.
The question then is how much for the E-Force head unit with injectors, inlet tubing and belt tensioner? And how much is a used 112 head unit worth without the miscellaneous parts from the rest of the kit?
So if you get the E-force head unit with the inlet tube, injectors, and tensioner, you will probably need to re-route some hoses and maybe re-wire some sensors, but you would already have the hex and intercooler pump mounted and ready to go, and a boost a pump already installed (if you're using one).
If you're saying the pulley will line up correctly, and it fits under the hood OK, I don't see much of an issue getting this to work.
The question then is how much for the E-Force head unit with injectors, inlet tubing and belt tensioner? And how much is a used 112 head unit worth without the miscellaneous parts from the rest of the kit?
If you keep the Maggie HEX and just try to sell the head unit, you will not get nearly as much as you will for the entire kit. I am looking at $500 +/- for a HEX system with a higher capacity pump than the Maggie is equipped with. You WILL take more than a $500 loss if you just sell the 112 head unit and keep the Maggie HEX. Although, this would probably be a pretty good deal for someone else who is looking for a Maggie....
Sorry for the confusion....I sometimes jump ahead a few steps when trying to explain things...my thought process sometimes outpaces my ability to communicate.
06-20-2012, 11:27 AM
#23
Dang you DMM.......my $$$ was burning a hole in my pocket and I went N/A route. I act upset, but I'm only partially mad lol.
This looks like a sweet option if you can stay at that price point!
This looks like a sweet option if you can stay at that price point!
06-20-2012, 11:43 AM
#24
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Winnipeg, mb
Posts: 789
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Frozen boost is where my whipple HEX pump; core, and fill cap came from.
http://www.frozenboost.com/
If I had a maggie i would just sell the head unit and leave everthing else plumbed in; just tell the buyer where the can get the hex parts.
From FB it should be much less than 500.(can't remember)
http://www.frozenboost.com/
If I had a maggie i would just sell the head unit and leave everthing else plumbed in; just tell the buyer where the can get the hex parts.
From FB it should be much less than 500.(can't remember)
06-20-2012, 01:48 PM
#25
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cool, I am looking forward to pics and updates on the build. I would consider upgrading from my 112 if it works out for you.
Where in MD are you located DMM?
Where in MD are you located DMM?
06-20-2012, 01:50 PM
#26
Sorry guys I was going to post the link to my photobucket but the pics are all broken. Ill try and get it done tonight.
To answer some questions.
1. For fuel I put in a Deatchwerks pump. It will suffice for the stock pulley (6lbs) Im running 9lbs and was getting close to lean at WOT and 5500 rpm. I put the Kenne Bell boost a pump and meth injection on there. I havent retuned yet. I have the 62lb injectors from Edelbrock
2.You will have to replace everything above the heads on an existing maggie plus the belt tensioner and intercooler lines. You may as well sell the maggie and use the funds for your new kit.
3. intercooler plumbing. This is a dual intercooler (in the plenum)so you will need a dual feed inlet and outlet. I bought the universal kit and it came with the necessary intercooler stuff. You will need to perform a few mods to make it fit but its not bad. The small e-force hex fits great on our cars and will suffice for a street car. 100% track duty will need something bigger.
4. There are 3 spots where the hood needs to be modded. Front two corners of plenum and the TB all touch the hood. You can try denting it in the honeycomb. I did that and cracked my paint. I would have cut the honeycomb out. I bought the aftermarket powerdome hood and its still rubbing on the TB, just barely though.
5. You need a HUGE filter and 4" intake plumbing to feed this thing. I switched to an LS3 MAF and housing they sent me. Your IAT sensor gets relocated with the MAP sensor to the rear of the plenum. The kit provides a harness for this. You need the harness
6. Fuel lines- this is a PIA to do custom. You need the E-force fuel rails. I went with all custom fittings and their fuel rails. I did a Y block in the rear so its balanced between the rails and a crossover in the front. This is basically the JRE fix the camaro guys have. The plenum does not have a lot of room to get a wrench in there for the front crossover. You cannot remove the upper from the lower so its just a little space. It took me a few hours to get the fuel lines hooked up. I recommend you buy the quick connect setup Edelbrock has for the front crossover to avoid the space problems. Ill post the Y block fuel PNs for the rear later. I put a fitting for a FP gauge in there as well.
I think thats it for now. It will make more sense when my pics are in.
To answer some questions.
1. For fuel I put in a Deatchwerks pump. It will suffice for the stock pulley (6lbs) Im running 9lbs and was getting close to lean at WOT and 5500 rpm. I put the Kenne Bell boost a pump and meth injection on there. I havent retuned yet. I have the 62lb injectors from Edelbrock
2.You will have to replace everything above the heads on an existing maggie plus the belt tensioner and intercooler lines. You may as well sell the maggie and use the funds for your new kit.
3. intercooler plumbing. This is a dual intercooler (in the plenum)so you will need a dual feed inlet and outlet. I bought the universal kit and it came with the necessary intercooler stuff. You will need to perform a few mods to make it fit but its not bad. The small e-force hex fits great on our cars and will suffice for a street car. 100% track duty will need something bigger.
4. There are 3 spots where the hood needs to be modded. Front two corners of plenum and the TB all touch the hood. You can try denting it in the honeycomb. I did that and cracked my paint. I would have cut the honeycomb out. I bought the aftermarket powerdome hood and its still rubbing on the TB, just barely though.
5. You need a HUGE filter and 4" intake plumbing to feed this thing. I switched to an LS3 MAF and housing they sent me. Your IAT sensor gets relocated with the MAP sensor to the rear of the plenum. The kit provides a harness for this. You need the harness
6. Fuel lines- this is a PIA to do custom. You need the E-force fuel rails. I went with all custom fittings and their fuel rails. I did a Y block in the rear so its balanced between the rails and a crossover in the front. This is basically the JRE fix the camaro guys have. The plenum does not have a lot of room to get a wrench in there for the front crossover. You cannot remove the upper from the lower so its just a little space. It took me a few hours to get the fuel lines hooked up. I recommend you buy the quick connect setup Edelbrock has for the front crossover to avoid the space problems. Ill post the Y block fuel PNs for the rear later. I put a fitting for a FP gauge in there as well.
I think thats it for now. It will make more sense when my pics are in.
06-20-2012, 08:16 PM
#28
1st pic is current status. needs cleanup and rewiring. Im going to pay someone to rewire it. I dont have the patience to do make a proper harness.
3rd and 4th pic show the tensioner setup
5th pic shows where you have to bend the intercooler discharge to clear the powersteering reservoir. I used a tubing bender to bend it. I pulled the barb out while bending it. Its held in with green loctite.
3rd and 4th pic show the tensioner setup
5th pic shows where you have to bend the intercooler discharge to clear the powersteering reservoir. I used a tubing bender to bend it. I pulled the barb out while bending it. Its held in with green loctite.
Last edited by psychobillycaddy; 06-20-2012 at 08:22 PM.
06-20-2012, 08:27 PM
#29
1st pic shows part way through the install pre bent barb
2nd and 3rd show the intercooler barb that needs to be bent and the hole where it comes out
4th shows post bent barb
5th is my ls3 going in
2nd and 3rd show the intercooler barb that needs to be bent and the hole where it comes out
4th shows post bent barb
5th is my ls3 going in
06-20-2012, 09:24 PM
#30
Above are the fuel rails The shipped system from Edelbrock feeds the passenger side, goes through a crossover in the front and is capped on the drivers side rear. That setup has the potential to starve the cylinders on the drivers side, especially towards the rear.
i read that the JRE fix has a y block. Based on that info I decided that the y block must be used to feed both rear sides of the rails and leave the crossover in the front to keep pressure balanced. These pics show my current setup with the front crossover using threaded connectors. I DO NOT RECOMMEND this setup. I bought the quick connect crossover from Edelbrock in case I ever remove the fuel rails. I will reinstall with the quick connect next time.
06-20-2012, 09:36 PM
#32
intercooler reservoir next to fuse box. I made a bracket so it can be raised when filling and be the highest point in the system for bleeding. When capped it can be lowered back down.
It then feeds the pump from the bottom. the pump is mounted on the passenger side bumper mount. I took a thick bracket from Lowes and twisted it in the middle to about 45 degrees. This allowed the pump to be mounted in the right direction and the bolt holes for the bracket were flush with bumper.
The pump then feeds the intercooler on the left
After exiting the intercooler it goes up in front of the intake assembly to the bent barb of the head unit. this pieces had to be cut and flipped 180 as the shipped version of this hose assembly would have been in the front where the power steering reservoir sits. This is the inlet split and it feeds under the shout to the inlet on the other side of the head unit.
the discharge goes to the back of the head unit and meets in the rear of the passenger side.
It then comes back towards the fuse box and into the inlet of the reservoir.
06-20-2012, 09:43 PM
#33
and finished
oh yah the intake is two 4 inch epdm 45 degree elbows from gander mountain. They are for boat exhaust. I have a 4 inch stainless pipe in the middle. The MAF/filter is from eforce and its all fitted with my old LPE Cold Air box
I finally finished the meth install with stage 3 snow controller, Ichpen's penske coilovers are on, the interior is now black, the gauges are kind of working, and I just picked up my rims today form powder coating
Now all thats left is put a shim in the slave (I need .113), alignment, dyno tune, paint
oh yah the intake is two 4 inch epdm 45 degree elbows from gander mountain. They are for boat exhaust. I have a 4 inch stainless pipe in the middle. The MAF/filter is from eforce and its all fitted with my old LPE Cold Air box
I finally finished the meth install with stage 3 snow controller, Ichpen's penske coilovers are on, the interior is now black, the gauges are kind of working, and I just picked up my rims today form powder coating
Now all thats left is put a shim in the slave (I need .113), alignment, dyno tune, paint
06-21-2012, 12:16 PM
#35
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
and finished
oh yah the intake is two 4 inch epdm 45 degree elbows from gander mountain. They are for boat exhaust. I have a 4 inch stainless pipe in the middle. The MAF/filter is from eforce and its all fitted with my old LPE Cold Air box
I finally finished the meth install with stage 3 snow controller, Ichpen's penske coilovers are on, the interior is now black, the gauges are kind of working, and I just picked up my rims today form powder coating
Now all thats left is put a shim in the slave (I need .113), alignment, dyno tune, paint
oh yah the intake is two 4 inch epdm 45 degree elbows from gander mountain. They are for boat exhaust. I have a 4 inch stainless pipe in the middle. The MAF/filter is from eforce and its all fitted with my old LPE Cold Air box
I finally finished the meth install with stage 3 snow controller, Ichpen's penske coilovers are on, the interior is now black, the gauges are kind of working, and I just picked up my rims today form powder coating
Now all thats left is put a shim in the slave (I need .113), alignment, dyno tune, paint
Good luck on the project DMM. 6k is really ambitious, don't know how much the kits go for these days but it can't be too far off that number.
I honestly think the way I went is actually the cheapest route for a straight up upgrade having seen lots of these TVS/whipple threads now. Mind you I lost a chunk of change selling just the maggie unit minus the kit pieces but overall effort is far from rocket science. Let me know if you need help.
06-21-2012, 02:12 PM
#36
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Psyco....THAT IS PHENOMENAL WORK!!!! Kudos man, one hell of a job with everything. And really, thanks for sharing with everyone. I have heard of people having problems with the Areo 340 and Deatchwerks pumps...have you had any issue's at all?
CTSV 510 - I am exactly between DC and Baltimore, when I am actually home that is.
ICHPEN - I agree what you did was probably the cheapest way to go...but I already sold my Maggie in my quest for a twin turbo set up. Unfortunately, I am going to be in the hole for a 90mm T Body right off the bat which will cut into the HEX setup that I am planning if all the odds and ends exceed my budgeted amount.
CTSV 510 - I am exactly between DC and Baltimore, when I am actually home that is.
ICHPEN - I agree what you did was probably the cheapest way to go...but I already sold my Maggie in my quest for a twin turbo set up. Unfortunately, I am going to be in the hole for a 90mm T Body right off the bat which will cut into the HEX setup that I am planning if all the odds and ends exceed my budgeted amount.
06-21-2012, 03:51 PM
#37
On The Tree
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Psyco....THAT IS PHENOMENAL WORK!!!! Kudos man, one hell of a job with everything. And really, thanks for sharing with everyone. I have heard of people having problems with the Areo 340 and Deatchwerks pumps...have you had any issue's at all?
CTSV 510 - I am exactly between DC and Baltimore, when I am actually home that is.
ICHPEN - I agree what you did was probably the cheapest way to go...but I already sold my Maggie in my quest for a twin turbo set up. Unfortunately, I am going to be in the hole for a 90mm T Body right off the bat which will cut into the HEX setup that I am planning if all the odds and ends exceed my budgeted amount.
CTSV 510 - I am exactly between DC and Baltimore, when I am actually home that is.
ICHPEN - I agree what you did was probably the cheapest way to go...but I already sold my Maggie in my quest for a twin turbo set up. Unfortunately, I am going to be in the hole for a 90mm T Body right off the bat which will cut into the HEX setup that I am planning if all the odds and ends exceed my budgeted amount.
Run an SD tune for a worry free MAFless experience. The intake tubing is rarely a restriction at your target boost levels but I see lots of folks spending crazy money on big MAFs and fancy tubing.
06-21-2012, 03:51 PM
#38
Psyco....THAT IS PHENOMENAL WORK!!!! Kudos man, one hell of a job with everything. And really, thanks for sharing with everyone. I have heard of people having problems with the Areo 340 and Deatchwerks pumps...have you had any issue's at all?
CTSV 510 - I am exactly between DC and Baltimore, when I am actually home that is.
ICHPEN - I agree what you did was probably the cheapest way to go...but I already sold my Maggie in my quest for a twin turbo set up. Unfortunately, I am going to be in the hole for a 90mm T Body right off the bat which will cut into the HEX setup that I am planning if all the odds and ends exceed my budgeted amount.
CTSV 510 - I am exactly between DC and Baltimore, when I am actually home that is.
ICHPEN - I agree what you did was probably the cheapest way to go...but I already sold my Maggie in my quest for a twin turbo set up. Unfortunately, I am going to be in the hole for a 90mm T Body right off the bat which will cut into the HEX setup that I am planning if all the odds and ends exceed my budgeted amount.
Thanks man. I havent had any issues with the Deatchwerks pump. I have the racetronix harness and BAP hooked up to it. I think its overkill for what I need. We will know for sure when we dyno. I think GulfM3 was working on a oilless turbo setup. Check with him on the status.
06-21-2012, 03:53 PM
#39
Yah that. My tuner thinks the 4 inch and huge filter will feed enough to handle the MAF but were probably going SD. Its up to PatG when he gets her on the dyno.
06-21-2012, 04:40 PM
#40
FormerVendor
iTrader: (33)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Lake in the Hills, IL
Posts: 5,052
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We offer billet flow threw rails direct fit for the TVS eliminate the possibility of running the end cyl lean.
http://www.nastyperformance.com/shop...ck-fuel-rails/
http://www.nastyperformance.com/shop...ck-fuel-rails/