meatyCTS-V

This past weekend I went to Orlando, and about 15 minutes from my destination, I started getting the TC (traction control) engagement warning on the DIC.

I was cruising at about 80mph. No hooning, and it didn't do it until almost the end of my trip. I pulled off the highway, shut down the car, looked around to make sure it was ok, and then turned it back on and hit the highway. It didn't do it again.

I've read that this is a sign of the sensor going or just coming loose.

Any other signs that the sensor is going out? It seems kinda like the steering is "heavier" and "lighter" at random times... maybe it's just me?

Thanks in advance.

Yes, I do have wider/shorter tires in the back from the front, but this only happened once and it was while cruising after almost 2 hours at the same speed...

-meaty

-T-

iTrader: (2)

When my sensor went out, I was actually getting a stability system inoperable message instead of traction control. With that POS sensor being intermittent, the car actually brought me to a dead stop from about 30 mph - luckily on a street alone during that time. ABS kicked in and everything for the whole affair.

xbladr

iTrader: (2)

Yea I have had my abs kick in as well with the SWPS issue getting the stabilitrak message. Looking to get mine replaced soon what does the dealer usually charge for this?

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

A better question is how much is butt hole reconstruction surgery?

Those dipshits replaced my upper steering column and now it clicks on every revolution when turning left.

This has no relevance to your question, I just thought you'd like to know..

-T-

iTrader: (2)

Not sure, I always did all the work myself. It didn't take that long to do the swap, maybe two hours at the very greatest. You have to remove the bolt from your steering shaft near your drivers side manifold / header and then pull four bolts from your column after removing beauty panels. Pull the entire assembly out from the dash assembly and replace the little guy.

loosenut

iTrader: (3)

I would be driving normally and the car would lose power and the stabilitrak active message would come on. It would do it randomly. Sometimes 4-5 times in a mile.

I called 2 local dealers and one wanted $109 for the part and the other $95. I was able to find it for $59 through a friend.

The part # is 15231652 just FYI.

meatyCTS-V

I'm going to be hitting the interstate again this weekend, so we'll see if it's acting up again.

I was scared when it happened the one and only time, the engine just lost power and started slowing down until I let off the throttle.

It felt like the time when I melted a motor on my way out to Cocoa Beach in a car I used to have. I was certainly puckered lol

Hopefully it was just a fluke... but still wondering why the steering is "lighter" and "heavier" randomly as I'm just driving.

I saw loosenut posted the part number and price, I saw a few other threads quoting the steering position sensor at around $88. So not incredibly expensive... yay GM!

-meaty

meatyCTS-V

I ran my tires through this tire size calculator here:

http://1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp

It's saying I'm at a 4.17% difference in my sidewall... I guess this would be the source of my issue?

I've noticed other posts saying that tire sizes will throw off the TC system.

Hopefully not the steering position sensor...

-meaty

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

Depending on wear and such, I suppose it's not unrealistic to say the different rotating speeds would throw a traction message, although one wheel speed sensor would have to be reading a lot higher than the other... In other words, there would need to be a huge discrepancy in tire tread to do this.

My guesses:

Fluke
Wheel speed sensor
battery going bad. Sounds crazy, but my car did this sporadically, and a few weeks later my battery completely died... never happened again.

meatyCTS-V

On the way back on the highway from Tampa it did it again, but not on the way up.

I'll have to take a peek and see if maybe a wheel sensor or something might have a loose connection, as I had two tires replaced recently and it never did that before the new tires.

Unfortunatly this issue showed up while messing around with a new 5.0 mustang on the interstate lol

I hate having to figure this **** out.

-meaty

Cadzilla

iTrader: (3)

I finally replaced my swps yesterday...it's been bad for who knows how long... my steering was all wacked, I was getting full power assist at all speeds... this seemed to have fixed it. It isn't darting all over the highway with the slightest touch of the wheel anymore..

Wanted to mention that I took a bit of a shortcut: I just sliced the boot protecting the upper intermediate shaft and unbolted it right there instead of screwing with the bolt under the hood. The whole assembly came right out and I replaced the sensor in seconds. Total time removing all the panels and stuff was probably less than an hour...but I had studied all the threads and my alldata diagrams so I was prepared.

I know it's not meant to be done that way, but the boot can easily be taped back together. I also wasn't looking forward to fishing that shaft back through the firewall and lining it up.

I had the special kent moore steering column pin to keep the column from rotating, but it didn't work worth a ****.

I still think the steering overall is still too numb on the V. I have been looking around and found a writeup on how to modify the ps pump itself to statically lower the boost at all speeds, and another using valving on the lines with an adjustable dial...

Unfortunately that will really only solve low speed numbness as magnasteer cuts off all power assist at 45mph anyway, then uses electromagnets to stiffen the wheel progressively up to around 80mph where it levels off. I would love to be able to change the input voltage to the rack to make it even stiffer but I don't see that happening right now.

I still need to hook my buddys tech2 up to it and clear out the old codes and do a diagnostic on the system to make sure nothing else is wrong. I might have an intermittent wheel speed sensor issue as well.

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

easiest way to tell if ur sensor is bad is to drive perfectly strait and look at the G meter. going strait it should stay a zero. mine was all over the place when it went bad.. changing it is cake..takes about an hr to do

Kellee Breymier

I have an 0sheaven and the abs brake and tc all come on. I don't believe it's a hard job as it is just located under the steering column ..at the dealer the price tends to b about 140 plus if u have them swap it out labor cost which it calls for abt 2 hours ..