CTS-V LS7 Clutch Upgrade How To - Confused? Read!
05-31-2013, 09:51 AM
#41
Just an update for you folks, with 4-5k miles on it I'm having no issues whatsoever. Drive it every day and love it. Clutch engagement is still low no doubt, but it doesn't bug me one bit. I'm sure you could get away with a small spacer, like the washers you'll see people use. However it certainly does not need one and works like a charm.
06-24-2013, 04:21 PM
#42
Going to get under my big black bitch tomorrow and replace the clutch/flywheel. Only few questions I have are:
1) Edit: Nevermind saw your puller description early in the post, dunno how I missed that
2) Is it easier to remove the trans from the bellhousing, then the bellhousing from the block? Or should I drop it all in one unit?
3) What's the preferred fluid to put back in it? I've seen Redline mixes mentioned here before ...
1) Edit: Nevermind saw your puller description early in the post, dunno how I missed that
2) Is it easier to remove the trans from the bellhousing, then the bellhousing from the block? Or should I drop it all in one unit?
3) What's the preferred fluid to put back in it? I've seen Redline mixes mentioned here before ...
06-24-2013, 04:36 PM
#43
Here is a trick on re-assembly:
You can use the starter motor mounting bolts for "guides" to remount the transmission/bell housing to the motor.
Once you get the transmission/bell housing in far enough, attach the bolts and you can "walk" or slide the transmission to mate rather then fight with it.
After the second time, I went and got some threaded rod and made some guides.
MUCH EASIER.
You can use the starter motor mounting bolts for "guides" to remount the transmission/bell housing to the motor.
Once you get the transmission/bell housing in far enough, attach the bolts and you can "walk" or slide the transmission to mate rather then fight with it.
After the second time, I went and got some threaded rod and made some guides.
MUCH EASIER.
Last edited by heavymetals; 06-24-2013 at 06:21 PM.
06-24-2013, 05:07 PM
#44
TECH Fanatic
Going to get under my big black bitch tomorrow and replace the clutch/flywheel. Only few questions I have are:
1) Edit: Nevermind saw your puller description early in the post, dunno how I missed that
2) Is it easier to remove the trans from the bellhousing, then the bellhousing from the block? Or should I drop it all in one unit?
3) What's the preferred fluid to put back in it? I've seen Redline mixes mentioned here before ...
1) Edit: Nevermind saw your puller description early in the post, dunno how I missed that
2) Is it easier to remove the trans from the bellhousing, then the bellhousing from the block? Or should I drop it all in one unit?
3) What's the preferred fluid to put back in it? I've seen Redline mixes mentioned here before ...
06-24-2013, 06:25 PM
#45
I pulled the transmission with the bell housing.
A bitch the first time because of the dual mass flywheel.
Duck soup after I got rid of that.
I did it twice by myself.
If you loosen the motor mounts the motor will be able to tilt more making it easier to separate the bell housing/trans assembly.
However, be careful of stress on the radiator hoses.
A bitch the first time because of the dual mass flywheel.
Duck soup after I got rid of that.
I did it twice by myself.
If you loosen the motor mounts the motor will be able to tilt more making it easier to separate the bell housing/trans assembly.
However, be careful of stress on the radiator hoses.
06-25-2013, 10:20 PM
#46
I had mine in for about ten thousand miles on my twin turbo 700+ whp setup. never had any problems with it. just got done pulling it out of the car and it looks great!
FYI i just posted in the classifieds for 250
FYI i just posted in the classifieds for 250
06-26-2013, 01:09 PM
#47
I pulled the transmission with the bell housing.
A bitch the first time because of the dual mass flywheel.
Duck soup after I got rid of that.
I did it twice by myself.
If you loosen the motor mounts the motor will be able to tilt more making it easier to separate the bell housing/trans assembly.
However, be careful of stress on the radiator hoses.
A bitch the first time because of the dual mass flywheel.
Duck soup after I got rid of that.
I did it twice by myself.
If you loosen the motor mounts the motor will be able to tilt more making it easier to separate the bell housing/trans assembly.
However, be careful of stress on the radiator hoses.
I ended up splitting the transmission from the bellhousing ... no idea how you managed to get your hands up there to get the top-most bolts with the transmission on, you must be a qualified contortionist, haha.
Good idea on the motor mounts trick. I will try that today to finish it up. I got as far as getting the new flywheel and clutch/pressure plate installed last night, so hopefully today I can wrap it up. Wife got food poisoning and put brakes on the party for the evening.
Side note, it appears the brass t-56 cup doesn't actually fit. I had to grind it down quite a bit to make it slide in.
06-26-2013, 01:50 PM
#48
I ended up splitting the transmission from the bellhousing ... no idea how you managed to get your hands up there to get the top-most bolts with the transmission on, you must be a qualified contortionist, haha.
Good idea on the motor mounts trick. I will try that today to finish it up. I got as far as getting the new flywheel and clutch/pressure plate installed last night, so hopefully today I can wrap it up. Wife got food poisoning and put brakes on the party for the evening.
Side note, it appears the brass t-56 cup doesn't actually fit. I had to grind it down quite a bit to make it slide in.
Good idea on the motor mounts trick. I will try that today to finish it up. I got as far as getting the new flywheel and clutch/pressure plate installed last night, so hopefully today I can wrap it up. Wife got food poisoning and put brakes on the party for the evening.
Side note, it appears the brass t-56 cup doesn't actually fit. I had to grind it down quite a bit to make it slide in.
Just a lot easier to work on.
07-08-2013, 06:19 PM
#49
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MC Thanks for the great post. I have been procrastinating asking all about the Slave issue. Like You, I have been reading and watching and after numerous,and I mean, numerous posts with this is good,that is bad, I was in a quandry. I have a Katech Spacer but had decided to buy an LS7 slave from a local GM dealer($162.00) just in case.
I have seen that many have had good luck with the spacer,perhaps I will sell it.
As for which clutch to use, i am with you,although many good points have been made to upgrade over OE LS7, the OE is far superior to what is in our cars to begin with. Guys don't realize that these cars are LUXURY Sports cars and have to be ultimately driveable by anyone, hence the heavy Dual mass package. GM didn't spent a SH--load of money on this just because. For the ultra performance,the aftermarket clutches are a must but there are an awful lot of ZO6s out there with a Sh--load of hard miles.
Just my 2 cents, thanks again for making this easier!
I have seen that many have had good luck with the spacer,perhaps I will sell it.
As for which clutch to use, i am with you,although many good points have been made to upgrade over OE LS7, the OE is far superior to what is in our cars to begin with. Guys don't realize that these cars are LUXURY Sports cars and have to be ultimately driveable by anyone, hence the heavy Dual mass package. GM didn't spent a SH--load of money on this just because. For the ultra performance,the aftermarket clutches are a must but there are an awful lot of ZO6s out there with a Sh--load of hard miles.
Just my 2 cents, thanks again for making this easier!
07-08-2013, 06:58 PM
#50
11-22-2013, 06:18 PM
#51
Great thread here guys, thanks to everyone who contributed. Especially the OP and FuzzyLogic. I'm bookmarking it because judging by the vibrations my dual mass turd is producing in my V these days, I'm going to be in the market for the LS7 upgrade sooner rather than later. Probably in the spring sometime. The amount of info out there about this topic is rather overwhelming, and this thread seems to sum almost all of it up very nicely (thanks to Fuzzy's posts). Over the last year and a half I've been researching/reading about this mod and I've bookmarked 20+ threads (most multiple page threads) that each contained little tidbits of info that I wanted to hang onto for when the time came to get this done.
11-22-2013, 08:56 PM
#55
I'm about to tackle this project in a week or so.... one thing im unsure about.. what is the tq specs for the ls7 pressure plate.. in this thread fuzzy says 45lbs.. but in another thread fuzzy says 48lbs... and ive seen many other suggestions.. has it been settled on one # yet?
11-22-2013, 09:06 PM
#56
I'm about to tackle this project in a week or so.... one thing im unsure about.. what is the tq specs for the ls7 pressure plate.. in this thread fuzzy says 45lbs.. but in another thread fuzzy says 48lbs... and ive seen many other suggestions.. has it been settled on one # yet?
11-23-2013, 08:28 AM
#58
I'm about to tackle this project in a week or so.... one thing im unsure about.. what is the tq specs for the ls7 pressure plate.. in this thread fuzzy says 45lbs.. but in another thread fuzzy says 48lbs... and ive seen many other suggestions.. has it been settled on one # yet?
Curious...what difference does this make with regards to the TQ specs?
11-23-2013, 11:27 AM
#59
The spec is 52 ft-lbs, which I found puts the engagement point slightly too low, given our bellhousing length. The people that have had major problems with clutch engagement (i.e.: clutch will not disengage at all) torqued the pressure plate to 74 ft-lbs because they confused the flywheel spec with the pressure plate spec.