54inches

iTrader: (4)

Those UUCs are POS!

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

I thought they were great in my car, still mad I bought new mounts because these look great and def look beefier

We will see the difference from the revshift

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

so we got the clutch/flywheel installed along with the tranns. We went to bleed the clutch and the clutch peddle was really hard. Pushed it down and the quick connect line on the slave ( the hard line with the round connector) busted open and the clutch fluid went everywhere. Like there was to much pressure or something

My friend is also trying to say the finns on the pressure plate don't like they are down that far. But we only have the stock clutch (finns were down farther) and honda clutches to go by. Def torqued it down to 48lbs in different passes. the ls7 clutch has the 3 fins that are down but the other fins are up higher

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

DarkCharisma

Yeah, that's normal; my ls7 pressure plate also had a few "fins" that were elevated/recessed, right out of the box.

Sorry to hear about your line. I busted a slave cyl. being an idiot, you sure you didn't damage that?

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

I'm not there right now but he just said the connection came loose (from what feels like to much pressure when pushing the clutch down) Don't think we damaged the slave, pretty simple to install

about the finns he is saying it seems like all the finns are too high on the ls7 when torqued, in the last picture he bolted the stock clutch back to the flywheel and you can see how low the fins are. So the 3 finns are still lower than the rest of them after you tighten the clutch down. Does that sound correct?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

The three fingers are fixed in their position. If you don't have a remote bleeder line, you'll regret it, because I can virtually guarantee you that you'll need to rebleed a couple of times initially to get every iota of the air out of the system.

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

Make sure to snug the pressure plate down in a star pattern (turn each bolt an equal amount and continue --->)UNTIL its flat against the flywheel on all the mating flanges. THEN torque them down to 48ftlb.

The connection to the slave cylinder HAS to go on a particular way to be able to get the clip in fully. I dont remember what way it is, but it took me like an hour plus to figure it out.

I agree with the speed bleeder. I am pulling my trans to install mine as it didnt make it in time.

Btw, dont compare it to the factory clutch, as youre comparing 2 diff setup thicknesses. Just my opinion.

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

I made sure to tell him to make sure the pressure plate was flat before we started torquing.

I think we pumped the pressure in the clutch to much and that is why the peddle was so hard and when we pushed it down the fitting/clip separated. So he took the tranns out again just to be sure and started bleeding again. Says there is some peddle but prolly still air so still bleeding.

Another thing we took out the subfram bolts out and there is plenty of room to bleed the clutch

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

If you have alot of pressure behind the clutch pedal, then the fluid isnt flowing from the master cylinder to the slave. Id just make sure the connector to the slave is seated properly.

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

we got a good pedal, so hopefully it is bled properly. Will finish everything up tomorrow and see if it is working. Got underneath and you can def here it engaging/disengaging

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

well got everything back together and the pedal feels good. you can hear the pressure plate moving but the car won't roll in gear with the clutch pushed in.


on top of that the car isn't starting and the check engine light and battery light stay on


going smooth.....

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Ugh, man ... sorry to hear about all the mod hell you're going through. Worries me, because I look forward to doing an LS7 clutch swap sometime in the future. Haven't come across too many threads like this in my research, but even one terrible experience like this scares me off. Good luck man. Wish I had some advice to offer...

DarkCharisma

Soooooo did you use those ARP bolts or the factory ones?

Because basically what I got with the ARP bolts was the inability to go into any gear when the car was started, and direct-drive in the event I started the car with it in gear, clutch depressed.

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure 90% of it is me and my friend, seriously first time messing the Caddy or even a v8.

An example is the passenger motor mount took a long time. Then I left and my friend called me laughing 20 mins later saying that it look 5 mins to install the drivers when he cried all day there was no room to do anything. Just the experience doing the passenger


Basically just watching youtube videos and forum postings

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

You can be the first one to say I told you so.

DarkCharisma

Get it worked out then?

TeamSorad

iTrader: (2)

nope ordered new oem bolts, but got everything back apart. I don't see what else it can be, we torqued it perfect and followed all the instructions. Should have just listened but was pissed I spent money on the arp bolts.

gonna put it back together today or tomorrow and will update

DarkCharisma

I hucked those bolts into the trash afterward for all the misery they caused me.

GA95DCMSS

iTrader: (13)

I still dont get the bolt issue...I feel left out as mine work fine lol