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Been doing some things lately, haven't hit the forum much or bought many parts because there were a couple of pistols I decided I needed more.
-Got bonus, sent car to The Dent Man, had them pull out every ding and dent on the car. $850 for the whole thing plus refinishing the headlights. Very happy with it.
-Smoked my front tires running too much neg camber. Got another pair of Mich PSS in 255/35/19, will grab rears in a few weeks and realign.
-LF hub went out again, bought a pair of C6 knuckles from a coworker for $100 with good bearings in them, popped off the WSS pickup and rotated to the proper position, slapped it on.
-Mounted a Setrab 25 row oil cooler to the back side of the front crash bar with anti vibration mounts, currently working on hoses to the Mocal thermostat. Got the ProGold corrugated hoses from Brown and Miller with crimp on fittings, had to mill off the overcasting on the back of the spring seat to get it to fit properly, was about a half a CH off the bellhousing adaptor. Should have it back down and running again tomorrow night.
First fit check with just the top brackets.
Had to cut and bend the bottom brackets in to shape to fit.
Drill press + cross slide vise, good enough to make stuff fit.
Was about half a CH off the bellhousing adapter as received, now it's got some clearance. Took a little more off to fit the flywheel cover.
Thermostat and hoses through the wheel well. Routed the hoses between the block and motor mount, under the lower rad support but above the lowest part of cradle.
Motor mount replacement install options:
1. Pay someone else to do it
2. Just pull the damn motor
3. Hope you have long arms, are a contortionist, and have some good luck on your side
I lucked out and had access to a lift. I have some issues w/ vertigo when on my back. This would not have been possible. On tall jack stands.
Lots of extensions. Loosen 2 front cradle bolts. Not bad.
One of my wheel studs broke the other day. Decided to swap them out with ARP 100-7708. The front two are easy to install on the rear I found it easier to remove the knuckle from the car. Once out it's easier to access the three bolts holding the hub to the knuckle.
Last edited by Bexar Caddy; 10-17-2018 at 01:47 PM.
Put around 110 miles on it on the main course @ Summit Point in WV. Had 2 of my 4 sessions cut short by a couple people getting off into the tire walls, otherwise it would've been even more mileage. Looking forward to more good time out there tomorrow!
Put around 110 miles on it on the main course @ Summit Point in WV. Had 2 of my 4 sessions cut short by a couple people getting off into the tire walls, otherwise it would've been even more mileage. Looking forward to more good time out there tomorrow!
Well, scratch that. When I left the track Saturday evening to head to dinner with friends I heard a bit of a tick-tick-tick from the engine, but thought it was just still hot from coming off track a little while before. Sunday morning I could definitely hear it, though, so I decided to play it safe and not run on Sunday. Doesn't sound like it's just an exhaust leak, although I suppose I should double check all the header bolts and the cat pipe, just to be sure. I'm more inclined to think it's something valvetrain related, but I haven't gotten very far in figuring out what it could be. Got the car home just fine (it's only 75 miles or so) and unpacked all the track stuff. Tried listening with my mechanic's stethoscope along the valve cover, but at idle I couldn't pick anything out. When I rev it up to 1500-2000rpm I can clearly hear it; girlfriend is going to come over tomorrow evening so she can rev it up while I listen to try to pinpoint where it's coming from.
Didn't have much luck pinpointing where the noise is coming from yesterday evening. However, I found that it's definitely louder listening down low (head down by the rocker sill) than it is listening from above the engine bay. I suppose that means it's not in the top end, which is not a good sign.
Could be a failing lifter. Pull a valve cover and see if you can pinpoint a cylinder. I'd start with #7. If you're able to isolate a lifter, pull the push rod out and insert a strawed can of B12 chemtool cleaner and give the lifter a blast of that to see if you can clean it out. Doing this on multiple potential lifters isn't a bad idea. Replace the pushrod, rocker, and valve cover and start it up. Let it idle a bit to see if the noise is changed. If not, and you're pretty certain it's a lifter, you'll need to pull the head to replace.
Is #7 the worst for oiling, is that why you suggest starting there? I would say that when I tried listening along the valve cover at idle with the mechanic's stethoscope that it did seem louder at #7, but not enough for me to say that I had found the smoking gun.
- Jacked the front up and pulled the driver's wheel off so I could lay under there and try listening to the block with the stethoscope. Still didn't hear anything particularly noteworthy. Tomorrow I'll probably find time to drain the oil and cut open the oil filter.
I pulled the valve cover and have rolled the engine over by hand, but I really don't know what I'm looking for to see if a lifter is bad. So, uh, what should I be looking for?
Figure I’m gonna try PDR and ordered a paint pen. My car is an 05 with 53k on it. Been repaired a few times but is straight as an arrow and flawless down the sides. This really sticks out. Nearly certain it happened in the parking lot at the shop that fixed my wiper issue. No proof and no desire to pick a fight. They treat me awesome.
Dropped mine off at the paint and body guy on Friday. Felt weird handing somebody the keys and just walking away lol I haven’t let anybody else touch that car for years! Hoping he does a good job. We are doing some trading and I know sometimes those deals don’t always work out. Just can’t afford the amount of work it needs without it. But I did get this old girl back together. I took it apart for paint like 2 years ago or better and just never put it back together. Felt good to be back on it after so long. She needs a bath but at least it looks like an R1 again.
Purchase some creative steel rebuildable poly motor mounts and transmission mount. So far really only thing wrong with my new to me V. Going to work on all the bushings first.
09-13-2018, 04:54 PM
