Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

What did you do to your V today?

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Old 03-18-2018, 03:58 PM
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Took out my backseat and rear deck cover to finally remove the PA15-VETTE and replace it with ahe aux-in jack mod. If anyone wants it, I’ll sell it cheap.

Whoever designed the rear seat for this car needs a bat to the skull too. All the super long bolts and sharp edges for no reason.

Tried a Costar Bluestar II but it didn’t work for ****. Half their threads on the website are people with the same problem. Syncs to the phone manually, drops as soon as the call connects, doesn’t reconnect automatically after that. Kind of annoying if I really have to update firmware but hopefully it works. If not, I’ll be sending it back. Something this simple really should just work for nearly $300.
Old 03-18-2018, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by isis
Whoever designed the rear seat for this car needs a bat to the skull too. All the super long bolts and sharp edges for no reason.
No doubt!

GM could've trimmed a bunch of weight from this car just by using bolts that weren't so goddamned long.
Old 03-19-2018, 08:34 AM
  #2063  
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Originally Posted by isis
Took out my backseat and rear deck cover to finally remove the PA15-VETTE and replace it with ahe aux-in jack mod. If anyone wants it, I’ll sell it cheap.
Were you having problems from the PA15-VETTE?
Old 03-19-2018, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by BaMaDuDe87
Were you having problems from the PA15-VETTE?
no nothing specific. The on dash xm interface is kinda dumb so I controlled everything on the phone anyway, and I never got the old iphone to lightning adapter that you’d need for a modern iAnything. You might have to pull the plug on it once a year if the XM band disappears on the radio but then it comes right back. From what I’ve seen that’s not too abnormal and wasn’t at all that frequent for me.
Old 03-19-2018, 08:31 PM
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Interstate Batteries Mega Tron II would be my recommendation. Should be a JCI product, which we use at work with great results.

Originally Posted by kra86
Need a new battery. Looking at the same group size as OEM. Found Pep Boys has "Champion" branded batteries that are made by Exide for about $155. Also found good ol East Penn Mfg. Deka 6101MF. Big fan of that company.

Anyone find lightweight batteries to use as a daily-driver, reliable, heat-resistant package?
Old 03-19-2018, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by westwopper
Interstate Batteries Mega Tron II would be my recommendation. Should be a JCI product, which we use at work with great results.


better get a battery blanket, i just cooked one in 12 months and was not happy, 2 cells closest to the motor where dead beyond jump starting it. had to push start it to get it home.
Old 03-20-2018, 05:22 PM
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Do most people not have their blanket?
Also, an AGM should help w high temp. I know interstate has them or you can get a red top. I believe red tops are JCI too.
Old 03-20-2018, 05:52 PM
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Interstate MegaTron Plus MTP-101 added to the list. (No Mega Tron II option) We should probably collate our data outside of this daily update thread into another one. But that would just make sense.

And yes, red tops are now JCI. I do not like red tops but I have never had any interstate battery fail me. Those have not been ruined like I believe the Optima product series has been.

Last edited by kra86; 03-20-2018 at 06:18 PM.
Old 03-21-2018, 10:54 AM
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FWIW, my battery "blanket"/heat cover was pretty shredded when I replaced the first battery, so I didn't bother reinstalling it. My underhood temps are lower than stock, though. Low temp thermostat, previous owner discarded the upper hood seal, and my long tubes are wrapped.

I wouldn't recommend discarding the hood seal, BTW. The intake for the HVAC is right above the battery and draws in stinky engine air at a stop. I've been meaning to replace it, but it's among a long list of things I procrastinate buying for this POS.
Old 03-23-2018, 08:10 PM
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Ordered some Lloyds Ultimats w/ sideways V on Auto Anything. PBEA3 code for discount / free shipping
Old 03-24-2018, 01:24 PM
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Put in real big Mama and never look back...

Old 03-25-2018, 07:41 PM
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Got some used Team Dynamic wheels. w00t.
Old 03-26-2018, 08:30 AM
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Drove it to a cruise in. Then had a CEL pop up on the way home. So looking forward to what caused that.
Old 03-26-2018, 02:01 PM
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Deka 6101MF OEM battery ordered for replacement.

P.S. Noco Genius Boost 40 works perfectly for the 6.0L LS2 V8. I have used that little 2.x pound li-on jump pack a few times on the car this winter. I bought that pack for my sub 4.0L fleet of cars. I had no idea I would have an LS2 when I purchased this device. Nice to know it does indeed work on the LS2. They do sales on them fairly often and you can score them for $75.00 if you find the right sale day.

Last edited by kra86; 03-26-2018 at 02:06 PM.
Old 03-26-2018, 02:03 PM
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Still fiddling with the Bluestar II. I think I got a bummer. Tried another firmware rewrite but I’m about done messing with it. Hope they support an RMA even though I bought it a few months ago
Old 03-27-2018, 08:48 AM
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Fac.... I need Bluetooth! Galaxy 1000 is no longer a thing

Originally Posted by isis
Still fiddling with the Bluestar II. I think I got a bummer. Tried another firmware rewrite but I’m about done messing with it. Hope they support an RMA even though I bought it a few months ago
Old 03-28-2018, 08:52 AM
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Attempted to remove the "HVAC unit" panel. No go, felt like I was going to break something getting it off. Apparently there is some sort of "beauty ring" around it and that started coming, but not the actual unit itself. Will try again tonight.....maybe
Old 03-28-2018, 10:52 AM
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I ordered a new shift boot and the bumper brace.
Old 03-28-2018, 07:05 PM
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Probably a little over kill, but I needed to run this DW300 with a boost a pump until I can get a dual DW300 sorted out. 10awg ground and a 12awg power wire to match the rest of the Racetronix Hotwire kit. So far so good and no leaks. I just need to get a boot over the hot wire.

Old 03-29-2018, 07:17 AM
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Picked up some new Racing Brake ET800 front and rear pads. Looking for new rotors also, Probably going to get Centric Cryo Treated blanks.

New Deka bettery should be here today. Also found an OEM battery insulator for cheap... looks good until it will disintegrate.

The last time I had an alignment, the track widths differed from front to rear, I searched and found all sorts of published info towards confirming that. I found the Mighty Mouse 3/16" spacer plates and ordered a set of those for the front to correct the front track width and that will also gain me precious millimeters of clearance up front.

Now that have a spare set of lighter and wider wheels, I want new more aggressive compound tires. My teething stages ended late last year and I wnated more just before the cold weather dropped the hammer on my all-weather tires (all-season is a misnomer). I will get some Max performance summer tires. Most likely Michelin Pilot 4S in either OEM size or 255/45-18. The only other tire that picqued my interest were the Firestone Firehawk Indy 500. (~$70 cheaper per tire) The wheel is offset 4mm towards the outer edge of the car. The extra size in tire and offset by the wheel should clear everything. I would also be making the tire slightly larger at 27.1" which I think would look nicer as well. I saw what the new wheels I purchased look like with 245/45-18 and the OEM tire is slightly stretched on the new 9inch wheel.

When choosing tires, I see a large array of reasoning on these forums. I can delve into why I choose the tire sizes I did, and it really comes down waht width wheel I am given and then I compare possible tire tread width vs my current wheel width. I have driven on a few tracks, done a few autocross events, and lots of spirted driving. I know what I like for handling. I find that the tread width being equal or slightly smaller than the wheel width helps tremendously with handling components of the driving experience. If anyone is truly interested, I can provide a link I supposed to further back up my personal and particular preference with another person that has much more public experience than I do at track events, autocross, etc.... and you can decide for your own.

That being said, Tire Rack does a lot of fair work for us to compare tires fairly. In regards to
Michelin Pilot 4S, 245/45-18 tires have a 8.1" tread width and 255/45-18 tires have a 8.7" tread width.
Firestone Indy Firehawk 500, 245/45-18 tires have a 8.2" tread width and the 255/45-18 tires have a 8.6" tread width.

Just like the variations you see in those two tires, with more choices, in the exact same size, you see variation, soemtimes the same tired width can vary up to 1.5" in actual tire tread width, and that is in the same tire width size (235,245,255 etc....) Lots of reasons why, but that relationship can help folks fit more tires onto wheels to make them fit different applications.

So I have seen folks run larger 275 and 265 on the 8.5 or 9.0" wheels. That is a chunky tire. Good for lateral acceleration but not for cornering. THe sidewall is not allowed to do anything, the tire carcass is left floating about. Back in the day, not a problem. Now with new tires with crazy sidewall and reinforcements techniques, lots to consider. I can see a stagger being beneficial but not ideal. Tire width and wheel width must coincide.

By far the most adult thing to do would be get serious wheels front and rear. How the V2 immediately addressed that is kinda proof that GM effed up with regards to wheel and tire choice on this car.

CTS-V vs the world!

Last edited by kra86; 03-29-2018 at 07:35 AM.


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