Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

What did you do to your V today?

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Old 05-25-2018, 04:06 PM
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I ended up swapping out the "eyeball" plates that I had for the PADFT's and used the BANSKI's.

That fixed the rattle, now for the squeaks.
Old 05-25-2018, 05:06 PM
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Installed 1BADCTS diff brace (finally...) Took me 2 HRs. Been doing burnouts since I’m almost done with these tires and no wheel hop!!!

Also installed my Kooks catless connectors. No more exhaust leak. Some exhaust shop tired to marry the Kooks 3” headers to 2.5 in exhaust. Sounds great now and!

Last edited by azn2dmax; 05-26-2018 at 06:14 PM.
Old 05-25-2018, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
I ended up swapping out the "eyeball" plates that I had for the PADFT's and used the BANSKI's.

That fixed the rattle, now for the squeaks.
Were the old plates elongated and/or did you inspect the area where the shock rod travels for any wear and tear?

I ask becasue on another car I had I had problems with wear that began to eventually cause a rattle-like noise that you seemed to be chasing. New mounts fixed it, temporarily. I have no current problems with my V1. Interested in yours, however.
Old 05-25-2018, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by azn2dmax




Installed 1BADCTS diff brace (finally...) Took me 2 HRs. Been doing burnouts since I’m almost done with these tires and no wheel hop!!!

Also installed my Kooks castles connectors. No more exhaust leak. Some exhaust shop tired to marry the Kooks 3” headers to 2.5 in exhaust. Sounds great now and!
Man the brace is next on my list. Finally driving the v again after my vibes are gone I'm ready to get moving on stuff again.
Old 05-25-2018, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by kra86
Were the old plates elongated and/or did you inspect the area where the shock rod travels for any wear and tear?

I ask becasue on another car I had I had problems with wear that began to eventually cause a rattle-like noise that you seemed to be chasing. New mounts fixed it, temporarily. I have no current problems with my V1. Interested in yours, however.
The old plates were not a problem per se.

They were original C5 mounts.

The shocks were the ones that come with KW's suspension.

What happened was a the rubber washer that takes out the "slop" had become distorted.

Any play in those pin bearings gets you a rattle.
Old 05-25-2018, 08:56 PM
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No ****. Any play in any metal to metal contact point will result in a rattle. That's why you're supposed to torque them properly.
Old 05-25-2018, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
No ****. Any play in any metal to metal contact point will result in a rattle. That's why you're supposed to torque them properly.
The rubber washer is supposed to make "tension" against the metal to metal contact to prevent rattles.

Look at the design of both.

The PADFT's have the rubber washer on the top whereas the BANSKI has the rubber washer at the base.
Old 05-27-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by heavymetals
The rubber washer is supposed to make "tension" against the metal to metal contact to prevent rattles.

Look at the design of both.

The PADFT's have the rubber washer on the top whereas the BANSKI has the rubber washer at the base.
I ended up having to add washers to the the bottom and top on the passenger side. I kept all the pieces. Will give it another try when I replace the QA1's.
Old 05-27-2018, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by branland
I ended up having to add washers to the the bottom and top on the passenger side. I kept all the pieces. Will give it another try when I replace the QA1's.
In my case the passenger side takes the biggest beating as it is the one that gets smacked by the speed bumps that are in my complex.

Driver side usually makes it through the drainage gap.
Old 05-30-2018, 03:20 PM
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Just the other day not today, but I fixed the panel below the rear passenger door. The part that goes up along the wheelwell warped and pulled the panel off of the clip, like broke it so nothing was holding it flush against the car. I stuck a wad of jbweld on the fastener that was still in the car and clamped the panel against it with a piece of 2x4. It’s flush now and theoretically still removable since I bonded the panel to the clip and not the car. (Hopefully)
Old 05-30-2018, 03:38 PM
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Had a the same issue but I tried to epoxy the brackets back together. It said no.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:40 PM
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Same issue with that panel here. Eff it. More **** to fix than it's worth. POS-V
Old 05-30-2018, 07:01 PM
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I was putting it off forever because I had been envisioning two-part epoxy and hope. The jbweld jumped into my hand when I opened the drawer. Does the screw work? Mine probably would’ve still been peeled away. Probably had left it so long my plastic warped more.
Old 05-30-2018, 10:00 PM
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I just drilled a hole and stuck a body rivet dealy in there and it was good ever since. The epoxy was a messy **** show that didn't work. The job was clearly the better product for that job.
Old 06-03-2018, 11:13 PM
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Bought the V with 73K on it and I finally changed the diff fluid at 209K. LOL Diff sounds a lot better, but then again I don’t think it had diff whine.
Old 06-05-2018, 09:03 PM
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Did the ole rear seat delete mod
Old 06-05-2018, 09:41 PM
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Replaced my worn out Hankooks with new Hankooks!!!! $480 total! Thanks to the eBay special and $100 Rebate from Hankook!
Old 06-06-2018, 08:14 AM
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All I've done is entertain trade offers for it.
Old 06-08-2018, 07:30 PM
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Popped the sun roof **** off for some reason, about to sell the damn car since I can't get it back together and they made some stupid *** wire so damn short so you can't see the insides to take it down.

Working on this car makes me feel like a bull in a China shop. Every time I try to do something, something breaks.

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Old 06-09-2018, 07:06 AM
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Oh man, hit 90,000 miles in my V1 just about one year after I took ownership of the wonderful Sigma-I chassis LS-powered 4 door saloon.


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