Replace that driveshaft bearing!!!
#301
Launching!
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Location: Smyrna, GA
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I hate to say it, but I think my bearing may be on the way out. I am getting an odd sound at around 65 and then a consistent shimmy at 70-85 mph. It just started doing this recently and has now started making some faint but odd noises from the hump near the rear seats especially when it is cold out.
May be sending you mine here following a visual inspection this week.
May be sending you mine here following a visual inspection this week.
#303
Idrvarocco... The bearings we use are high quality koyo bearings that exceed the OEM specs, and operate in temps lower than your car will ever see. I'm confident the issue youre having right now is not cause by the bearing due to cold weather.. but its never out of the realm of possibility that bearings fail. Keep me in the loop.
#304
Yah, likely I don't think it's from your bearing necessarily. Not to hijack the thread but any ideas on what may cause the vibes at those speeds? Cold may have played a part or may just be coincidence.
Idrvarocco... The bearings we use are high quality koyo bearings that exceed the OEM specs, and operate in temps lower than your car will ever see. I'm confident the issue youre having right now is not cause by the bearing due to cold weather.. but its never out of the realm of possibility that bearings fail. Keep me in the loop.
#305
I don't know the specifics for sure of your setup. I do recall at first you had tried the revshift coupler and it was making a lot of noise. Idk if you went back to the stocker. If so, the stocker might be the reason. We've been getting the feeling that if the stock flex disc was subject to worn trans mount and a severely sagging carrier for long enough, it can permanently warp it..so that when the angle is corrected with new mounts you are now fighting the deformation in the flex disc.. We have seen them deformed from this.
#306
Well at least I can add some value to the thread here. I did stay with the Revshift coupler and have a few thoughts to share.
For those of you looking to pair a voodoochikin driveshaft with a revshift coupler I can say this:
When properly aligned, the Rev coupler with Chinkin Driveshaft is a beautiful combo; glass smooth with great throttle response. However, making the Rev Coupler happy is a PIA. It has to be perfectly aligned or it makes all types of noise and the bolts can even back out. Often the culprit is a worn trans mount, which throws off alignment.
If you want a noise free ride with little hassle simply get a new OEM coupler when you buy your Chikin DS.
As for my cluncks and vibrations in my car... it's a gen 1 V.. I'll never find all the gremlins running around inside this thing...
For those of you looking to pair a voodoochikin driveshaft with a revshift coupler I can say this:
When properly aligned, the Rev coupler with Chinkin Driveshaft is a beautiful combo; glass smooth with great throttle response. However, making the Rev Coupler happy is a PIA. It has to be perfectly aligned or it makes all types of noise and the bolts can even back out. Often the culprit is a worn trans mount, which throws off alignment.
If you want a noise free ride with little hassle simply get a new OEM coupler when you buy your Chikin DS.
As for my cluncks and vibrations in my car... it's a gen 1 V.. I'll never find all the gremlins running around inside this thing...
I don't know the specifics for sure of your setup. I do recall at first you had tried the revshift coupler and it was making a lot of noise. Idk if you went back to the stocker. If so, the stocker might be the reason. We've been getting the feeling that if the stock flex disc was subject to worn trans mount and a severely sagging carrier for long enough, it can permanently warp it..so that when the angle is corrected with new mounts you are now fighting the deformation in the flex disc.. We have seen them deformed from this.
Last edited by idrvarocco; 12-03-2015 at 01:08 PM.
#312
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Chapel Hill NC
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I was just wondering how much the total service was, still not totally clear what gets replaced or what needs replaced. Hell I've only had my car 2 weeks and haven't had a chance to get it on a lifterm and look at how the driveshaft goes together on it.
#314
Please visit www.kerbid.com for details..
#315
A couple updates here.... We have been seeing quite a bit lately, guys finding the Cadilac CTS bearing unit with gm part number: 88951975 Everywhere online, even online gm retailers will list this carrier bearing unit as fitting both the V and the CTS.... That is WRONG. While the bearing diameter is the same, so the bearing itself can physically fit the shaft of the V driveshaft unit....the rest is NOT the same and it WILL NOT bolt to the car. The brackets are completely different! The rubber in the replacement CTS carriers is very weak and floppy, and the bearings are not up to the same standards as the OEM V driveshaft bearings were nor to the standards as OUR poly replacement units. You could actually remove the center rubber/bearing and install it into a V bracket but why? Its crap floppy rubber and low quality bearing not meant for the strain your driveline will put on it. Also separating the driveshaft halves yourself is highly NOT recommended as it is easy to not get them aligned correctly, its easy to destroy the cv center boot, AND more than likely it will not retain the factory seal of the cv boot cap.
On another note!! We have updated the design of our poly units. The main design change does not affect the end use but will reduce the number of units snagged by quality control so that we can get our orders processed faster!! Also the new design will incorporate a removable bearing so that in the event the bearing may fail, the whole unit does not need replacing! The changes are good for everyone. We will post pictures once the new units arrive.
On another note!! We have updated the design of our poly units. The main design change does not affect the end use but will reduce the number of units snagged by quality control so that we can get our orders processed faster!! Also the new design will incorporate a removable bearing so that in the event the bearing may fail, the whole unit does not need replacing! The changes are good for everyone. We will post pictures once the new units arrive.
#316
TECH Resident
are you going to be modifying a stock bracket to allow the removal of the carrier bearing/surround in a fashion that would allow someone to jump under the car and change it with hand tools? sounds like it'd still need to be sent out to you guys to change the bearing based on a press being needed to separate the shaft and all the other odds and ends.
#317
There is no way to remove the bearing without separating the shafts. So yes it would still need to come to us in order to replace a failed bearing. The main reason for the change is to get even more bonding surface area between poly and bearing unit so that we dont keep losing product to quality control issues. The byproduct of the changes is that we can now replace just a bearing in the even it fails rather than using a whole new carrier unit. We dont anticipate any bearing failures!
#318
These help the clunking I get all the time? Or is it for people with vibration issues. Just looking to cure some of the flaws of the car. No vibrations right now but if it helps the clunky sounds I'd love that.
#320
TECH Junkie
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The parade clunk moves the driveshaft around enough to cause movement in the soft stock carrier bearing support. When you're under the car you can grab the driveshaft near the bearing and move it around pretty freely. The poly bearing support in the voodoo setup will limit that movement and create the more solid feel described. It won't fix the parade clunk from the differential itself or a floaty rear cradle with stock subframe bushings that twists forward under acceleration and waffles around corners, but should pair well with other bushing improvements.
To remedy the parade clunk, replacing the 4 rear subframe bushings and the front differential bushing went a long way. Revshift and Creative Steel both offer these. CS has a good rental tool and instruction set to aid a DIY install.
The rest is in the lash setting of the differential gears. The tolerances are a little loose from the factory and may open up over time causing some clunkiness when the gears are transition from either being pushed by inertia (coasting) or driven by the engine. Dropping the differential and messing with this setting isn't exactly something someone should DIY without prior experience, and it's probably more work than it's worth. The bushings should leave you pretty satisfied with their improvements. The little bit of play in the lash is tolerable to most.
To remedy the parade clunk, replacing the 4 rear subframe bushings and the front differential bushing went a long way. Revshift and Creative Steel both offer these. CS has a good rental tool and instruction set to aid a DIY install.
The rest is in the lash setting of the differential gears. The tolerances are a little loose from the factory and may open up over time causing some clunkiness when the gears are transition from either being pushed by inertia (coasting) or driven by the engine. Dropping the differential and messing with this setting isn't exactly something someone should DIY without prior experience, and it's probably more work than it's worth. The bushings should leave you pretty satisfied with their improvements. The little bit of play in the lash is tolerable to most.