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Hey guys! Just wanted to share some updates. We just finished moving shops, and are working on getting our line setup. Fortunately it has not caused any delays in shipping. There will be some changes coming soon I'll share when time comes. Thanks again for your support!!
For anyone going the DIY route: the old bearing tends to be very stuck on the driveshaft. Some careful cutting with a grinder or a rotary tool followed by some taps with a chisel and hammer is a good way of getting the old one off without big presses and minor drama.
We've had a few that wouldn't budge under 20 ton press... Crazy.
Heat gun.
When I did mine I used a mechanical gear puller and a heat gun. Get a good bit of tension on the puller or press, soak it will some quality penetrating oil (Kroil, trynsol etc) and heat. It will eventually make a loud pop and move easy after that.
Guys, this is why its so important to follow the instructions. Here is an example of a clients shaft that was serviced by a reputable shop. They didn't crimp the cap down properly per the instructions, it's visible that the leading of the steel cap is not tight to the CV joint. This is why we stress so much that even perfectly capable people if not utilizing the guidance given, can do a poor unacceptable job.
not sure if john ever mentioned my post on facebook, but since you're not on there and i saw this thread pop up i figured i'd say something.
i had one of the first batch of the driveshafts where we were shipping the entire shaft back and forth. it's still working great and everything seems to be holding up. however, because i've been punishing my car through salty *** wisconsin winters the physical bearing in the unit is rusty. the poly is holding up great and hasn't budged.
recently i had an old familiar friend of a sound return in the form of a loud whine/groan that was 100% speed related. i got under the car and looked around, found nothing that visually looked bad. all of my wheel bearings are good and the sound didn't vary when turning either. i figured since i was down there i'd give the bearing on the carrier assembly a little WD40 bath. the sound is gone and hasn't come back (yet).
now, assuming i've actually found my problem...do you recommend packing the bearing area with some kind of grease or a spray to keep it properly protected? the last thing i want to do is replace this again because i ran it through the worst case scenario and it didn't survive.
i didn't feel like this was worth a phone call or even an email or you'd have heard from me already.
Man I need to get my butt in gear and get on Facebook.
Any issue you come across is always worth a call or text or email!!. Of course any metal exposed to the elements will gain oxidation which is hard to prevent. In the beginning we didn't use the same bearings we've been using. We went through some noname units in testing, then on to ***, koyo, and finally chose our current Nachi units.
All bearings we used in retail service should have been rubber seal bearings so if it's making noise I'd say someone how the grease has diminished by a failed seal?.. the fact you sprayed it and it stopped leads me to believe the wd40 easily got past the seal. Which shouldn't happen easily. You can try to pick the seal out and grease it.
A coating of white lithium spray grease would offer protection from the elements.
thanks, matt. i got a little more digging to do before i come to any serious conclusions about this, but it just seems like the most likely culprit at this point. i'll keep you updated with what i find!
Matt is right, i did the same on my previous turkish middle bearing, use a carpet knife to pop the seal ring out or drill a small hole into 2rs plastic dust shield from bearing to regrease it...
09-16-2017, 01:12 PM
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