8.8 guys come in
04-13-2014, 06:41 AM
#42
On The Tree
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Regardless of price, one reason to go with the CS 8.8", is that it is a direct bolt in solution. My understanding is that you and a buddy can install the CS 8.8" kit in your garage over a weekend.
Most people seem to feel that the Gforce 9" kit can ultimately hold more power, but the install requires you to modify your rear subframe to fit it under the car. In my impression, the added expense and complication of that subframe fabrication work is what steers a lot of people to the CS 8.8" kit.
Take all of ^^^that with a grain of salt, since I'm still on my OEM diff and could be mistaken on some of the pros/cons.
04-13-2014, 09:27 AM
#44
Teching In
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You can't ask a question that has that kind of variable from driver to driver and expect a mind blowing answer.
Our stock differentials suck, no way around that. What benefit does a built rear end offer in any other car? Better 60's aka TRACTION, peace of mind knowing you won't turn your diff into an erector set, do I need to keep going?
We're not salesmen here (some of us are), but if you're looking for us to convince you into doing a build rear end in a car that has a stock Fisher Price unit, well, I don't know what the hell to tell you, maybe you should've bought a SRA mustang...
Our stock differentials suck, no way around that. What benefit does a built rear end offer in any other car? Better 60's aka TRACTION, peace of mind knowing you won't turn your diff into an erector set, do I need to keep going?
We're not salesmen here (some of us are), but if you're looking for us to convince you into doing a build rear end in a car that has a stock Fisher Price unit, well, I don't know what the hell to tell you, maybe you should've bought a SRA mustang...
04-13-2014, 09:29 AM
#45
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I understand the rear does not actually make the car go faster. My point was that the stock v rear does not allow for a decent 60 because everyone is afraid to break it. So after spending almost 5k, I figured people would slap on some drs and hit the track and see what their performance car could do now that they got rid of the week link but I guess I was wrong.
Our stock differentials suck, no way around that. What benefit does a built rear end offer in any other car? Better 60's aka TRACTION, peace of mind knowing you won't turn your diff into an erector set, do I need to keep going?
We're not salesmen here (some of us are), but if you're looking for us to convince you into doing a build rear end in a car that has a stock Fisher Price unit, well, I don't know what the hell to tell you, maybe you should've bought a SRA mustang...
04-13-2014, 10:57 AM
#46
TECH Fanatic
I had a GenIV installed when I bought mine. I upgraded to the 8.8 with 3.55 gears as I felt it had the best overall ratio spread. Another consideration is that the non-serviceable driveshaft ($1k dealer or $1,500 aftermarket) will require replacement at some point. Also, the axles are the weak point as the inner and out stubs shear from the CV with great regularity. With the driveshaft and axles, you're 1/2 way to the full 8.8 kit and 3/4 to the DIY kit in terms of price.
Keep in mind the Getrag unit is non serviceable too, where as just about everyone has messed with an 8.8 and you an get parts all day long from anywhere.
Keep in mind the Getrag unit is non serviceable too, where as just about everyone has messed with an 8.8 and you an get parts all day long from anywhere.
04-14-2014, 09:56 AM
#48
04-14-2014, 11:25 AM
#49
For $500 extra (based on CS and G-Force sale prices last Christmas), you get a lifetime warranty, a better differential (Strange S-Trac), stronger axles, and a 3.75" PST carbon fiber driveshaft capable of exceeding 200 mph (9500 critical RPM).
04-14-2014, 01:28 PM
#50
These of course are catalog prices but the 9" center section is a purpose built unit whereas the 8.8 is a potential craigslist purchase.
With a little shopping and a driveshaft spacer from DSS, the 8.8 swap could probably be done for less than $2500 without the need for breaking out the grinder or welder and I would doubt you could do the complete 9" swap (including the subframe mods) for less than $4500.
04-14-2014, 04:35 PM
#51
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Total cost for me was 3k. That was partial cs kit and sourced my own diff. And thats after I sold my stock drive shaft. if my rear end didnt grenade with my axle I would have been looking at 2500 for the whole swap with the parts offset
What did you spend modifying the subframe??? Can't forget this little expense.
These of course are catalog prices but the 9" center section is a purpose built unit whereas the 8.8 is a potential craigslist purchase.
With a little shopping and a driveshaft spacer from DSS, the 8.8 swap could probably be done for less than $2500 without the need for breaking out the grinder or welder and I would doubt you could do the complete 9" swap (including the subframe mods) for less than $4500.
These of course are catalog prices but the 9" center section is a purpose built unit whereas the 8.8 is a potential craigslist purchase.
With a little shopping and a driveshaft spacer from DSS, the 8.8 swap could probably be done for less than $2500 without the need for breaking out the grinder or welder and I would doubt you could do the complete 9" swap (including the subframe mods) for less than $4500.
04-14-2014, 07:12 PM
#52
04-17-2014, 10:35 AM
#53
you guys made your point with the 8.8 from CS. Their website isn't working but I get why I saw the GForce9" as cheaper...b/c I didn't add the pumpkin. Yeah...that's a lot more. Does CS now have a drop in package? Like we don't have to disassemble the CV boots and crap?
04-17-2014, 11:09 AM
#56
I don't remember off the top of my head what the upgraded cost as max didn't offer it when I bought my 8.8.
If I was to do it over I'd get the upgraded CVs just for the extra piece of mind
If I was to do it over I'd get the upgraded CVs just for the extra piece of mind
04-17-2014, 03:04 PM
#58
FormerVendor
Join Date: Nov 2013
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Upgraded outer 4340 CV's are $375.
Sorry for any inconvenience, the server for our website was down yesterday.
Very few people don't get the upgraded CV's. They are a good idea from two stand points.
#1, the axles come to you completely assembled. This way you just install them straight out of the box, no need to do the nasty job of swapping your old outer CV's on to the new axles if they are ordered without the outer CV's.
#2, the upgraded CV's are a different length than the OEM CV's, which means is you don't get the upgraded CV's from the start, the axle bars will be the wrong length if you want to upgrade to them if you brake an OEM CV.
Sorry for any inconvenience, the server for our website was down yesterday.
Very few people don't get the upgraded CV's. They are a good idea from two stand points.
#1, the axles come to you completely assembled. This way you just install them straight out of the box, no need to do the nasty job of swapping your old outer CV's on to the new axles if they are ordered without the outer CV's.
#2, the upgraded CV's are a different length than the OEM CV's, which means is you don't get the upgraded CV's from the start, the axle bars will be the wrong length if you want to upgrade to them if you brake an OEM CV.
04-26-2014, 09:39 AM
#60
I love my 8.8. I have revshift and cs bushings through out. I splurged on the carbon fiber drive shaft, the upgraded outers etc. I selected 3.55 for the future plans with boost. If I had to do it again, may have went with 3.73. If I can afford tires ill make a pass or two