Group Buy - philistine aftermarket clutch master cylinder.
05-22-2017, 02:02 AM
#342
TECH Regular
I was yesterday in the same area and I also can't verify, that their are only 2 nuts and you have the e-brake out?!
We need a step-by-step diy guide with pics, showing the right nuts, but again it was a major pita, only trying to shorten the throw on the threaded rod bolt, in my case not doable, I made a positive stop, as Tilton himself suggested me to do, take it's time now, to accustom the new shorter pedal travel, pic will follow...
I'm feeling like 100yrs man today, only by being a snakeman for 2hrs bending in the footwell area, that really sucks, I hate mastercylinders!!!
Greets
Ron
We need a step-by-step diy guide with pics, showing the right nuts, but again it was a major pita, only trying to shorten the throw on the threaded rod bolt, in my case not doable, I made a positive stop, as Tilton himself suggested me to do, take it's time now, to accustom the new shorter pedal travel, pic will follow...
I'm feeling like 100yrs man today, only by being a snakeman for 2hrs bending in the footwell area, that really sucks, I hate mastercylinders!!!
Greets
Ron
05-26-2017, 10:19 PM
#344
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For a while I've had indications of a leak coming from the clutch master cylinder inside the car - fluid on the inside of the firewall and dripping down on the dead pedal. As recently documented in the "What did you do to your V today" thread, I picked up a rebuild kit so I could refresh the Tilton MC.
It was not clear to me where the leak was originating from. When I removed the old piston from the MC there were not any obvious nicks or tears in the seals. I cleaned out the bore of the MC and again didn't see anything obvious.
Today I drove the car for a few hours to attend a track event this weekend, and during the drive I looked down and could see fluid on the dead pedal. Mother. ******.
Just got back from bedding in some pads and there was a small puddle of fluid on the aluminum foot rest I installed, and some fluid on the dead pedal.
I'm really ******* frustrated - all that work to remove and reinstall the damn thing with no change in symptoms. And I'm utterly mystified as to how the fluid is getting out of the MC! The only thing I can figure is that I didn't do a thorough enough inspection of the bore of the MC when I rebuilt it, and there's a nick/gouge in the bore that's allowing fluid to seep past the seal.
It was not clear to me where the leak was originating from. When I removed the old piston from the MC there were not any obvious nicks or tears in the seals. I cleaned out the bore of the MC and again didn't see anything obvious.
Today I drove the car for a few hours to attend a track event this weekend, and during the drive I looked down and could see fluid on the dead pedal. Mother. ******.
Just got back from bedding in some pads and there was a small puddle of fluid on the aluminum foot rest I installed, and some fluid on the dead pedal.I'm really ******* frustrated - all that work to remove and reinstall the damn thing with no change in symptoms. And I'm utterly mystified as to how the fluid is getting out of the MC! The only thing I can figure is that I didn't do a thorough enough inspection of the bore of the MC when I rebuilt it, and there's a nick/gouge in the bore that's allowing fluid to seep past the seal.
05-27-2017, 03:10 AM
#346
TECH Regular
That's dawn **** man, I'll be with you, maybe a line has a cut or the brake fluid was on the firewall or somewhere else you didn't expect it by filling the reservoir and it comes only by moving the car?
Greetz
Ron
Greetz
Ron
06-01-2017, 09:58 PM
#347
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The leak is sporadic, which is the way it was before I took things apart to rebuild the Tilton. I wish I had some way to watch it so I could get a better idea of when it happens and where it actually leaks from. Since I can't watch it, obviously, I'm not sure what to think; it'll sometimes drip when I'm driving on the highway, sometimes when I'm driving hard on track, but most of the time it's fine. It seems to leak worse when I top off the reservoir; if I don't top it off, it doesn't seem to keep leaking indefinitely, and I've never had any impact on clutch function. The level seems to reach an equilibrium down at the "LOW" mark on the reservoir.
Generally the only way I know it's leaking is when I put my foot on the clutch pedal and find it slippery; the clutch pedal doesn't get wet directly, it's the dead pedal that gets wet, and then I get the fluid on the sole of my shoe and transfer it to the clutch pedal.
I'll get back under the dash this weekend and see what I can see.
Generally the only way I know it's leaking is when I put my foot on the clutch pedal and find it slippery; the clutch pedal doesn't get wet directly, it's the dead pedal that gets wet, and then I get the fluid on the sole of my shoe and transfer it to the clutch pedal.
I'll get back under the dash this weekend and see what I can see.
06-02-2017, 11:55 AM
#349
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^^^ Yeah, that's what I was thinking I would try. I've got a Motive Power Bleeder, so I can put some pressure on the reservoir and then cycle the pedal while I'm laying in the footwell. I'll remove the clutch switch so I can actually see the pushrod and where it comes out of the MC.
06-02-2017, 12:23 PM
#350
The pedal is going to give you many times the pressure than the mere 12-15 PSI the Motive can provide. I think you're better off wiping down all surfaces with a paper towel to make sure they're clean, then pumping the pedal hard a couple of times. Then check for leaks with a clean paper towel.
06-02-2017, 01:07 PM
#351
No doubt Fuzzy is right but given the intermittent nature, the extra pressure from the bleeder MIGHT be enough to move the scenario from not leaking to leaking while he's watching. Worth a shot anyway, nothing to lose but a little time and it may just work.
06-17-2017, 10:33 PM
#353
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I'm really ******* frustrated - all that work to remove and reinstall the damn thing with no change in symptoms. And I'm utterly mystified as to how the fluid is getting out of the MC! The only thing I can figure is that I didn't do a thorough enough inspection of the bore of the MC when I rebuilt it, and there's a nick/gouge in the bore that's allowing fluid to seep past the seal.
You can see some light scuffing of the bore - that's actually more noticeable in the picture than in real life. More noteworthy is that little spot where the arrow is pointing - that's a small burr. Not sure how it got there initially, but it would appear to have made a small groove in the bore.
I also found corresponding scuffing on the outer rims of the piston:
The old piston (that came out when I did the rebuild not too long ago) exhibits even more of that same sort of scuffing. (It's all dirty since it's just been sitting on a rag on the floor of the garage.)
I'm definitely annoyed with myself that I didn't catch the issue last month when I pulled it all apart to address the leak the first time. While that little burr isn't really obvious, I should've seen it when I wiped down the bore of the MC during the rebuild. As for the scuffing on the piston, I think I was so focused on looking for signs of damage to the seals that I didn't catch the scuffing. Ah well...
Got everything back together, just need to bleed the system tomorrow.
06-18-2017, 08:25 AM
#354
TECH Regular
Hope you find the issue and everything works well with the new mc...
Respect for being a snakeman once again and install this major pita in the footroom !!!
Greetz
Ron
Respect for being a snakeman once again and install this major pita in the footroom !!!
Greetz
Ron
06-18-2017, 07:11 PM
#355
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Famous last words. The reservoir connects to the Wilwood MC with a slip-fit adapter. Said adapter blows right off if you use much pressure on the Motive Power Bleeder - I think I was at about 10psi when the thing popped off. 
Of course, I had reassembled everything (wiper assembly and trim pieces reinstalled), so I had to take that **** off again so I could access the MC to put the adapter back in place. I zip-tied it so that it would stay on, and then only used about 7-8psi on the Motive.
Clutch pedal is still very soft, doesn't feel like it's doing anything until the last 10% of the stroke. Tried starting it anyway, and sure enough the clutch isn't disengaging, so the car tried to drive down the driveway on the starter. (Did I mention that my ******* parking brake blows? Oh, and those plastic wheel chocks apparently are no match for a starter motor.)
Part of the problem may be that the car is parked nose-down in my sloped driveway; that's how it was deposited by the flatbed tow truck that brought me home after my alternator died last week. Not much I can do about that, since I obviously can't drive the car to turn it around. I may see about rolling it to the base of the driveway (just a couple car lengths) where it's flatter, then put the nose up on jack stands. *sigh*
Of course, I had reassembled everything (wiper assembly and trim pieces reinstalled), so I had to take that **** off again so I could access the MC to put the adapter back in place. I zip-tied it so that it would stay on, and then only used about 7-8psi on the Motive.Clutch pedal is still very soft, doesn't feel like it's doing anything until the last 10% of the stroke. Tried starting it anyway, and sure enough the clutch isn't disengaging, so the car tried to drive down the driveway on the starter. (Did I mention that my ******* parking brake blows? Oh, and those plastic wheel chocks apparently are no match for a starter motor.)
Part of the problem may be that the car is parked nose-down in my sloped driveway; that's how it was deposited by the flatbed tow truck that brought me home after my alternator died last week. Not much I can do about that, since I obviously can't drive the car to turn it around. I may see about rolling it to the base of the driveway (just a couple car lengths) where it's flatter, then put the nose up on jack stands. *sigh*
06-18-2017, 07:42 PM
#357
Getting the air out of the master is very hard with the nose of the car pointing down. The bubbles stick up near the pushrod and don't want to leave through the outlet or the reservoir inlet. For that reason I like to start my bleeds with the nose up. Conversely, getting all the air out of the slave is easiest if you connect the bleeder line to the upper slave port and tilt the nose down.
It may sound like a lot of work, but it only adds 5-10 minutes to the initial bleed. And as I said before, the Motive does nothing except keep the reservoir full. To expel bubbles trapped in local high points, you need to develop fluid velocity to pull and push them into a location where they can rise to the engine bay. Short of hooking up a 1+ HP sump pump to the system, I'm not sure you're going to live the dream of the effortless 30 second bleed.
Edit: ****, I think I can build a bleeder kit using parts from my watercooled PC "filler/cleaner in a bucket" rig. The 3/4 HP pump in the bucket can push 4 GPM through a computer with restriction equivalent to 30' of lift. Unfortunately it's not rated for brake fluid.
It may sound like a lot of work, but it only adds 5-10 minutes to the initial bleed. And as I said before, the Motive does nothing except keep the reservoir full. To expel bubbles trapped in local high points, you need to develop fluid velocity to pull and push them into a location where they can rise to the engine bay. Short of hooking up a 1+ HP sump pump to the system, I'm not sure you're going to live the dream of the effortless 30 second bleed.
Edit: ****, I think I can build a bleeder kit using parts from my watercooled PC "filler/cleaner in a bucket" rig. The 3/4 HP pump in the bucket can push 4 GPM through a computer with restriction equivalent to 30' of lift. Unfortunately it's not rated for brake fluid.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 06-18-2017 at 08:04 PM.
06-18-2017, 11:34 PM
#358
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Oh, and the output of the MC (the NPT fitting) is leaking, too. I ******* hate NPT fittings - to me they always seem like they take significantly more torque than they should to get them to seal.
06-19-2017, 03:29 AM
#359
TECH Regular
Entered???
He stays there a long time yet, his *** must be strong blackish from Devils fire there... 
My highest respect don't kickin this car into the trash can, man where did u got all the nervs for it to stand up after every failure???
Again, all the good to you, I'll be with u !!!
Greetz
Ron
He stays there a long time yet, his *** must be strong blackish from Devils fire there...
My highest respect don't kickin this car into the trash can, man where did u got all the nervs for it to stand up after every failure???
Again, all the good to you, I'll be with u !!!
Greetz
Ron
06-20-2017, 10:11 PM
#360
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Threaded it in by hand, followed typical guidance for tightening NPT fittings, had a wrench on the adapter when I tightened the AN hose end onto it so it wouldn't get (over)tightened, but somehow the threads got jacked up anyway.
Ordered a new fitting from Summit this evening (actually, 2, just to have a back-up). Of course, I was too late to catch the overnight shipping, and I'm going out of town later this week, so the car will just sit there, dead, until I get back in town and have the parts in hand.