Motown Cad

Hi all, Can anyone help out and explain what the A, B and difference measurements are supposed to be? 1st time doing a clutch in 20 years. Thanks.

Motown Cad

What I think needs to happen is that there needs to be a slight gap so the bearing is not touching fingers in the depressed collapsed stated correct? Thanks and bump.

rand49er

I haven't done one in 40 years, but don't you mean there needs to be slight clearance in the undepressed (i.e. clutch pedal out) condition?

LS BRAVADA

iTrader: (4)

Thare is a light spring behind the bearing that keeps bearring pressure on the fingers. Somewhere on this sight thare is a good write up on how to check clearance. You will need a strait edge and calipers and third grade subtraction. It is suggested to remove the spring behind the throw out bearing unless you have an extra hand to hold the spring back wile taking measurements. My question is how does the crappy plastic piece between the slave piston and bearing not break when pressure is applied by my left foot ?

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

Why would the plastic "sheathing" break? When the slave is just sitting there, that's its full extension. When you install it on the transmission and bolt the trans to the engine, it compresses the slave. So when you push the pedal, it should not extend any further than it was when you pulled it out of the box. Under those conditions no fluid pressure is getting to the sheathing. BUT... If you have to big of a master cylinder that's movingto much fluid, it will push the slave piston to far and allow fluid into the sheathing area and rupture it.

LS BRAVADA

iTrader: (4)

Not the sheathing. The plastic piece between the slave piston and bearing. Thare is an extreme amount of pressure on this plastic piece

Motown Cad

I found the 4 page thread many of you posted in from April (Shimming ls7 slave). I hope to hear from tick tomorrow or will call. Thanks and understood how to take measurement and subtract but I still haven't found what the difference measurement is supposed to equal. .100, .170 etc. is what ppl came up with but not sure what I'm "supposed" to see. I have the 3 pack shim set. If no one knows, I will post the answer Tick performance provides.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

The more space, or bigger the gap, the lower your clutch pedal will be at when clutch engages and disengages. Tighter gap means that clutch pedal movement required is less. Basically, you have a chance to set your clutch pedal engagement level. I have no shim and my clutch engages just off the floor. I am adding a small .1 or so spacer to bring the pedal engagement up. Again, each one requries measurement/ verification for each car and your taste.
Somewhere the specs are given, but i think you may be better off to use the middle spacer at first, put the trans in, bleed the slave and then check engagement feel before reassembling the enitre car. To change the shim at this point would only require pulling the 4 trans to back of bellhousing bolts and slipping the trans back enough to remove the slave and swap shims. once it is bled try not to undo the hydraulic line( as that required more time to bleed the hydraulics) it will be tight but can be done.

Clear as mud?

Motown Cad

Wow, thank you slowlane. It's clear as mud but I'm the kind that doesn't get the obvious. That's what wasn't clear to me. I was thinking "geez do these guys put these clutches in (re assemble car) and tear it down again to change shim?". Thank god. Like I said, the last clutch I did was on my 5.0 GT 20 years ago, so thank you. I'm going to do this in 3 weeks as I have to travel for work first.