Wheel hop...fucking wheel hop
#2
TECH Fanatic
There are a bunch of threads about it. I think the general consensus is that they do help considerably, and combined with new rear subframe mounts get rid of most of the hop. The diff is still somewhat weak.
Case in point, I believe that Car and Driver did a article of all the features of the new CTS-V and one of the big things was big and little axles. They have some good pictures of it also. Same basic premise behind the geforce axle kits.
Case in point, I believe that Car and Driver did a article of all the features of the new CTS-V and one of the big things was big and little axles. They have some good pictures of it also. Same basic premise behind the geforce axle kits.
#4
TECH Fanatic
My hop went away probably 80% with my 95a subframe bushings. I would say try that first. It's the cheapest route I only get hope when I really drop the hammer out of the hole. Not even normal racing or whatever, like smokey burnout stuff still gets me hop
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#8
i just seen the creative steel bushings you think they are really better than the bmr kit?
#10
#11
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
I first replaced my rear cradle bushings, diff bushing, and rear trailing arm bushings with poly units from Revshift. It improved the feel of the back end and handling, quieted down some of the diff noise, and very mildly improved wheel hop. I then replaced both axles with DSS axles and for regular street driving, my wheel hop is now gone. In the wet, wheel hop is gone until about 4K but that happens only in extreme cases. Very satisfied with the results and money spent.
#12
I first replaced my rear cradle bushings, diff bushing, and rear trailing arm bushings with poly units from Revshift. It improved the feel of the back end and handling, quieted down some of the diff noise, and very mildly improved wheel hop. I then replaced both axles with DSS axles and for regular street driving, my wheel hop is now gone. In the wet, wheel hop is gone until about 4K but that happens only in extreme cases. Very satisfied with the results and money spent.
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I have a revshift diff bushing. I like their design better for that one.
Only time I spin the tires is to slide the ***-end. I think wheelhop is more of a straight line issue so I don't usually feel any. I'd imagine cradle bushings and axles would be the proper path if you can swing both.
I think if you install the 8.8 rear swap from creative steel, wheel hop goes away or at least doesn't matter. So there's that $$ option too
Last edited by isis; 12-30-2014 at 05:49 PM.
#14
I have them. Never used the bmr. I'm pretty sure they do the same things though. I like the creative steel cradle bushing design and install tool.
I have a revshift diff bushing. I like their design better for that one.
Only time I spin the tires is to slide the ***-end. I think wheelhop is more of a straight line issue so I don't usually feel any. I'd imagine cradle bushings and axles would be the proper path if you can swing both.
I think if you install the 8.8 rear swap from creative steel, wheel hop goes away or at least doesn't matter. So there's that $$ option too
I have a revshift diff bushing. I like their design better for that one.
Only time I spin the tires is to slide the ***-end. I think wheelhop is more of a straight line issue so I don't usually feel any. I'd imagine cradle bushings and axles would be the proper path if you can swing both.
I think if you install the 8.8 rear swap from creative steel, wheel hop goes away or at least doesn't matter. So there's that $$ option too
thanks for the input man i really appreciate it THANK GOD FOR BAH AND DEPLOYMENT PAY!!!!!!!!!!!
#15
TECH Fanatic
Yea, for the hop and to help the rear end go where I want it to go. The whole cradle with stock bushings will flop around like a dying fish. They are a bit of a pain to remove the stock ones. You'll want an air hammer for sure. After I dropped the subframe it took like 10 minutes per bushing in and out.
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Yea, for the hop and to help the rear end go where I want it to go. The whole cradle with stock bushings will flop around like a dying fish. They are a bit of a pain to remove the stock ones. You'll want an air hammer for sure. After I dropped the subframe it took like 10 minutes per bushing in and out.
#17
TECH Fanatic
OP, do the bushings first and be prepared to do the axles as well. I did both and can drop the clutch at 3k RPM, jam my foot to the floor, hit the rev limiter while spinning the tires in first gear, and get zero wheelhop.
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
"Press them out?" I had to drop the cradle to install my Specter Werkes cradle bushings. Don't see how they could've been pressed out.
OP, do the bushings first and be prepared to do the axles as well. I did both and can drop the clutch at 3k RPM, jam my foot to the floor, hit the rev limiter while spinning the tires in first gear, and get zero wheelhop.
OP, do the bushings first and be prepared to do the axles as well. I did both and can drop the clutch at 3k RPM, jam my foot to the floor, hit the rev limiter while spinning the tires in first gear, and get zero wheelhop.
#19
"Press them out?" I had to drop the cradle to install my Specter Werkes cradle bushings. Don't see how they could've been pressed out.
OP, do the bushings first and be prepared to do the axles as well. I did both and can drop the clutch at 3k RPM, jam my foot to the floor, hit the rev limiter while spinning the tires in first gear, and get zero wheelhop.
OP, do the bushings first and be prepared to do the axles as well. I did both and can drop the clutch at 3k RPM, jam my foot to the floor, hit the rev limiter while spinning the tires in first gear, and get zero wheelhop.
thanks man im going to get the Gforce axles and bushings from Creative steel thanks for the help
#20
Some guys have just put a better tire on the rear. And have solved wheel hop that away to