AJT_LBA

Hey guys, so recently i started hearing a lot of crackle and distortion from the rear sub. I am looking to replace it with an infinite baffle subwoofer and an amp as well. I am wondering what is a good combo. I want to get a 10 inch, i know I will have out shave out the deck some. Also, I was wondering what to do with the old bose amp? If i have to remove it that will be fine, I have an after market head unit (Parrot Asteroid Smart) so I can run RCA cables. I am not looking for show quality, just looking for a good improvement over the old setup. Thanks ahead and if there is anything about IBs i should know about would be great too, I am use to just enclosed woofers.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

You don't have to remove the Bose amp.

Get a mono or small bridgeable one with a high level (speaker level) input (most amps are switchable from low to high for this purpose).

Use that to power the new sub and the old sub connections to drive the amp.

Check this site for subs:

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-drivers/14

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

Heavy can you reccomend a sub that will fit well and out-perform the weak stock sub? i'll be using a separate amp.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

The Infinity I use has been discontinued.

You can't get a real deep one unless you mount from the bottom or get real creative with a mounting board.

That link I posted has some good ones, the shallow one (DAYTON) in new listing looks like a good fit.

I had to use a nibbler tool to increase the ID for the basket to fit the hole, which was no big deal.

AJT_LBA

I knew depth would be an issue, from my understanding, some subs can be used for IB, but most IB designed subs are shallow to begin with. The mono amp sounds like to be a god fit, would I be able to run power from fuse block below the rear seats? I think from what I have read that is where the stock amp is powered from. I just need to make sure that I pick the right sub, hate to put money down and not go anywhere with it.

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

I could probably find the Infinity Reference series still on ebay. 10" right?

Part of me has thought about cutting out two more holes and doing 3 IB subs back there, but we'll see how one goes this spring.

Sssnake

Heavy has made all the right recommendations. However I would make sure I mounted from the bottom rather than the top. The stock deck is not that stout and you really want your sub baffle to be very rigid. So bottom mounting a deep sub capable of long excursion to a rigid baffle under and affixed to the stock deck would be my suggestion.

Sssnake

There are electronic modules mounted on the stock back deck so I wouldn't go this route. You can build a panel that goes across your rear pass thru and mount two 15" subs if you need the SPL. However, the 15"s are tight and not all of them will fit. I use two Acoustic Elegance IB 15s. They do a very good job and fit.

AJT_LBA

so your saying is to use the speaker and the deck as a baffle when you mount from the bottom? What if I dont plan on using a deep sub, would it still be better t mount from the bottom?

AJT_LBA

I think this is the Dayton that Heavy was talking about

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...ProductDetails

It seems to be what I want, just cant find any information since this is a new product if it is good for IB.

now for an amp, found a class D that seems to be a good fit for that sub

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3....html?tp=35834

Sssnake

Keep in mind that I am a stickler for this stuff... I would only mount a sub in the stock reat deck (top or bottom) if the deck was reinforced somehow. The are multiple reasons but the main reason is you will end up with less rattling/non-musical noise if you reinforce it. I know a lot of guys don't want to add weight and I agree that weight (especially mounted high in the car) is a bad thing but adding an aftermarket sub up high typically adds weight as well. IMO if you use the deck to mount the sub and don't want to add a ton of weight then you should cut a baffle from 1/4 inch plywood. Attach it to the stock deck on the bottom side and fill the gap between the two with spray foam insulation. Then screw in a couple of strategically placed pieces of aluminum angle material for rigidity. Finally use a small amount of sound deadner to secure the wires to the top of the deck and prevent them from buzzing.

I realize this is a lot of work for a sub but if you are adding an aftermarket sub you typically want more volume and more low end extension. Both will stress the stock mounting location. Do it as described above (and use some deadner on any trunk panels that vibrate) and when you are done it WILL NOT sound like two midgets in the trunk wrestling inside a bag of aluminum cans.

AJT_LBA

I agree with everything you have said, especially reinforcing. Just have to remember though, that one, I am not looking to **** of my neighborhood and two, the weight from a shallow sub and an amp (depending where I place it) is the only weight added. So I am not to concerned of any weight issues. If anything I can tack in some angle pieces if there seemed to be any weight concerned areas. My main concerned now is the Dayton sub going to work as a IBS and can the fuse block handle the load of another amp or should I just run a whole new wire from the battery? Last thing I want to do is light a fire underneath a passengers *** when a fuse pops.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I tapped into the 12 volt line that runs between the two fuse blocks under the rear seat.

Saved having to run a wire through the firewall.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

It is an Infinity 1040W

AJT_LBA

Great, thanks heavy, what gauge wire did you run? And does the stock bose amp have a remote to it as well that I can just splice from?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I ran a 4 gauge wire to the amp.

For a remote turn on, I tapped the brown wire to the keyswitch.

Just raise the steering wheel as high as you can and you can get at it.

AJT_LBA

so I found this combo, and seen quite the good reviews on replacing free air subs like our case.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWD...04.html?tp=111

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2062CX3...12CX300-1.html

let me know what you guys think.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Amplifier looks ok to me.

The sub, I would be aware of the depth limitation if you mount from the top as the rear window can prevent it or just be a PITA.

AJT_LBA

well the top mount depth is 4 and 3/4, I looked at your infinity and its 4 and 1/2, did you have a problem getting it in? i know 1/4 can be a big difference, but would it seem a PITA? also, does the rear deck cover just pop off?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

It has been so long since I did the swap I can't remember.

I do remember having to use a nibbler on the ID for the basket to clear.