Cooking clutch fluid
02-09-2015, 03:44 PM
#1
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Cooking clutch fluid I've been having issues with the clutch in my 04 sticking to the floor and not wanting to go into gear. Seems to be happening once a month or so and then i'll swap the fluid out and it wont happen for a while longer. Happened today on my way home, saw a hint of smoke coming out around the back of the motor. It was super hot under the hood so it was hard to tell. So I assume its the longtubes maybe cooking it but they have been on for a year or so and haven't given me any issues until recently. They are wrapped all the way up to the collector, I'm already using DOT 4 as well. I never really beat on the car either just commute it for the most part. I'm curious why now all of a sudden and should I just expect to swap the fluid out every month?
02-09-2015, 10:54 PM
#3
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Aside from the first time I experienced this I don't seem to be losing any fluid. I honestly can't be sure that was from the clutch. I recently had to replace the radiator due to leaking and i'm still getting a hint of antifreeze but no noticeable leaks. I figured it was just all the residue burning off after it spewing everywhere but now I'm not so sure. Would insulating the clutch line and maybe a better fluid help any? The car has almost 170k on it but I was told the PO put an ls7 clutch in it around 140 so I would have a hard time believing the master/slave is going out already.
Last edited by Snatchymanx; 02-09-2015 at 11:00 PM.
02-10-2015, 05:25 AM
#7
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Cycled some new fluid through, didn't look very bad at all. I did notice there was some grease in the reservoir and i usually wipe it clean so that was weird. Clutch seemed to feel generally like **** afterwards but didn't have any issues, it had plenty of time to cool down. The car has always had issues going into specifically reverse and alot of the times I will have to give repeated attempts at lights to get it into first as well, I was told this was normal with these trans. I have heard about having to shim the slave, is that just with the ls7 setup? My bro has a monster and I really like it, so I am seriously considering switching over.
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02-10-2015, 09:12 AM
#8
Cycled some new fluid through, didn't look very bad at all. I did notice there was some grease in the reservoir and i usually wipe it clean so that was weird. Clutch seemed to feel generally like **** afterwards but didn't have any issues, it had plenty of time to cool down. The car has always had issues going into specifically reverse and alot of the times I will have to give repeated attempts at lights to get it into first as well, I was told this was normal with these trans. I have heard about having to shim the slave, is that just with the ls7 setup? My bro has a monster and I really like it, so I am seriously considering switching over
My reasoning is, if it is tough getting into gear for clutch related reasons it is because the clutch is dragging. A dragging clutch is MUCH tougher on the synchros (which aren't stellar in our cars to begin with). Compare the cost of a PMC with the cost of transmission repairs.
I would NOT go back with a stock replacement MC. I did that in an effort to fix a dragging clutch. It did NOT help (in fairness I was using an aftermarket clutch but as you mentioned many have experienced a dragging clutch with completely stock setup). Installed a Tick MC (PIA as it is not designed for our cars) and the problem went away completely. Because of the wanting the CPS to work I eventually settled on a PMC and I am glad I did.
02-10-2015, 09:59 AM
#9
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Thanks for the replies. When you say PMC are you referring to the Philistine MC? If so, I was looking at that yesterday and figured it would probably be a good idea I just wanted to get some opinions before i just start throwing money at it. Im still recovering from the alradco I just had to buy last month lol.
02-10-2015, 10:06 AM
#10
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I have another thought...
If you keep boiling fluid, you need to make sure it isn't getting contaminated. This issue can be something as easy and checking the reservoir cap to make sure it seals properly. Brake (and clutch) fluid absorbs moister very quickly. When it does, it drastically lowers the boiling point and therefore makes the fluid less than ideal to use in a pressurized system. When you boil water, you get air bubbles, so that would cause compressibility in the system.
Have you checked the cap? Make sure there aren't any rips in the rubber gasket inside the lid. Or are there any cracks in the reservoir? Look for stuff like that. Try and see if you can pressure test it. That would be my guess as to the culprit of the problem. For me its always something quite small and innocuous that trips me up.
It just makes a little more sense that, you keep replacing fluid and then you keep having an issue some time a few months later. It doesn't take long for DOT4 or DOT5 to absorb enough fluid that it becomes useless.
If you keep boiling fluid, you need to make sure it isn't getting contaminated. This issue can be something as easy and checking the reservoir cap to make sure it seals properly. Brake (and clutch) fluid absorbs moister very quickly. When it does, it drastically lowers the boiling point and therefore makes the fluid less than ideal to use in a pressurized system. When you boil water, you get air bubbles, so that would cause compressibility in the system.
Have you checked the cap? Make sure there aren't any rips in the rubber gasket inside the lid. Or are there any cracks in the reservoir? Look for stuff like that. Try and see if you can pressure test it. That would be my guess as to the culprit of the problem. For me its always something quite small and innocuous that trips me up.
It just makes a little more sense that, you keep replacing fluid and then you keep having an issue some time a few months later. It doesn't take long for DOT4 or DOT5 to absorb enough fluid that it becomes useless.
Last edited by ryridesmotox; 02-10-2015 at 10:47 AM.
02-10-2015, 10:57 AM
#11
I have another thought...
If you keep boiling fluid, you need to make sure it isn't getting contaminated. This issue can be something as easy and checking the reservoir cap to make sure it seals properly. Brake (and clutch) fluid absorbs moister very quickly. When it does, it drastically lowers the boiling point and therefore makes the fluid less than ideal to use in a pressurized system. When you boil water, you get air bubbles, so that would cause compressibility in the system.
Have you checked the cap? Make sure there aren't any rips in the rubber gasket inside the lid. Or are there any cracks in the reservoir? Look for stuff like that. Try and see if you can pressure test it. That would be my guess as to the culprit of the problem. For me its always something quite small and innocuous that trips me up.
It just makes a little more sense that, you keep replacing fluid and then you keep having an issue some time a few months later. It doesn't take long for DOT4 or DOT5 to absorb enough fluid that it becomes useless.
If you keep boiling fluid, you need to make sure it isn't getting contaminated. This issue can be something as easy and checking the reservoir cap to make sure it seals properly. Brake (and clutch) fluid absorbs moister very quickly. When it does, it drastically lowers the boiling point and therefore makes the fluid less than ideal to use in a pressurized system. When you boil water, you get air bubbles, so that would cause compressibility in the system.
Have you checked the cap? Make sure there aren't any rips in the rubber gasket inside the lid. Or are there any cracks in the reservoir? Look for stuff like that. Try and see if you can pressure test it. That would be my guess as to the culprit of the problem. For me its always something quite small and innocuous that trips me up.
It just makes a little more sense that, you keep replacing fluid and then you keep having an issue some time a few months later. It doesn't take long for DOT4 or DOT5 to absorb enough fluid that it becomes useless.
02-10-2015, 12:44 PM
#12
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Well whatever it is, its getting worse or fluid changes arent the issue obviously. Didn't even make it 24hrs before leaving me stranded. Pedal goes to the floor, lifting it up does nothing, pumping does nothing. I'm usually able to get it to go into a gear randomly to make it out of the road. I guess ill start with the MC along with a new cap and see what happens.
02-10-2015, 12:57 PM
#13
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I should clarify that i have been using the turkey baster method to change the fluid. I don't know if this is an adequate way of going about this or not once there is air in the system if that is indeed the case here.
02-10-2015, 03:46 PM
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Ya I was already thinking about having to do the slave as well. I'd like to just go ahead and put a ctsv monster clutch in it while im in there. I haven't really looked into what all is involved in an ls7 swap. Is there anything special I need in order to ditch the ls7 stuff?
02-10-2015, 04:43 PM
#16
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Ya I was already thinking about having to do the slave as well. I'd like to just go ahead and put a ctsv monster clutch in it while im in there. I haven't really looked into what all is involved in an ls7 swap. Is there anything special I need in order to ditch the ls7 stuff?
02-10-2015, 05:35 PM
#17
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No idea. I went ahead and ordered the PMC along with a heat sleeve for the line just for piece of mind. I'm probably a few weeks away from being able to get the rest so I'm going to try the PMC first and see if that helps any.
02-10-2015, 09:13 PM
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Ya, remote bleeder is on my priority list. I come from foxbodies so this hydraulic stuff is still new to me lol. Anyway I just went to pick the car up after letting it sit the rest of the day where it broke down. Drove home, no issues at all but it happened to be pretty chilly out unlike when the clutch went out in the middle of the day (this is Texas so the days have been warm lately).
