bearit12345

I'm just putting some feelers out to find out if anyone has come up with a solid solution to doing away with wheel hop?

I've read about cradle bushings, hiem joint trailing arms and differential/axle swaps but I was looking at the rear with a buddy while installing my headers on Saturday, and we're thinking we can make a torque arm setup with a mount that's off of the rear cradle and that can do away with the trailing arm completely. It would allow all of the factory bushings to be left in and, in theory, be completely bolt in.

Has someone done this already? Would anyone want me to post about my success or failure while trying to make this setup? Or is this a dead issue by now? Let me know either way.

Thanks guys.

Sssnake

The Solstices and Skys use this same differential, weigh less, and have less torque output capability and they got tons of complaints about the diff until they switched to a torque arm set up. The torque arm on these was off of the differential (actually has a different case). I am not sure how you would construct a torque arm off of the cradle that helped but I am interested.

bearit12345

Well, we were thinking of coming off of the knuckle and making another mount to take the torque off of the cradle and getting rid of that terribly flexible setup.

Are you still having wheel hop after your trailing arms/bushings and what not?

kyle242gt

Someone made some subframe connectors that served this purpose. Don't know if they were ever developed for sale or not.

I believe that the issue is not just the rearend, but also the cradle rubberbanding in its bushings.

Sssnake

Not now. CS 8.8" I did have some after all of the bushings. It was greatly reduced and only showed up occasionally but was still there... I am a big believer that the bushings and a true torque arm on the diff would work wonders but don't have the time and skills to try it. Most of the noise seemed to come from the pinion and the torque arm would take most of the stress off the pinion and transfer it to the end of the TA mount.

hefftone

I don't know enough about them, how they work etc...

But I'd love to see what you come up with.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Our Subframe connectors were developed as just subframe connectors but they definitely helped eliminate the hop.

Subframe bushings and a 8.8 swap are your best bet.

Even Torque arm cars get hop in certain situations....

Sssnake

Agreed 100% on both counts but a torque arm setup should be much cheaper and I THINK nearly as effective. I say I THINK because I haven't done it to prove it to myself. I have driven the Solstices both with and wo a torque arm and there was very little wheel hop left on them BUT they were a ton lighter and had less torque than the V. Long story short I think a torque arm and cradle bushings on a stock powered V would get rid of most everything for a LOT less money than a new diff.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

Good Luck in finding room to put a Torque Arm in our car. lol

bearit12345

Alright. I'll take as many pics as I can as I make progress.

I'll probably want to bounce ideas off of you guys at some point as well. Thanks for the input so far.

bigti99a

iTrader: (16)

go for it and see what happens. if anything comes out of it i would certainly think that for a few hundred bucks most guys would go for it over a full diff replacement even though the diff is probably better but at 10x the cost and 10x the labor time.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

This.

Of course the 8.8 is the ultimate solution, but it's cost prohibitive for most. Even if people can afford it, it doesn't financially make sense to throw $4k at a $12k car.

A torque arm or subframe connector should be good enough for most.

Sssnake

You definitely couldn't go all the way back to the transmission. If you can squeeze one in that goes back to the carrier mount location you might have a shot. The clearance issue and knowing with my power level the getrag likely wouldn't last is what pushed me over the edge to an 8.8"

bearit12345

I've got a question for all of you. My car is an 05 so let me know if yours are the same or different, in that mine has three tapped holes on each side of the frame just in front of the rear wheel right at the pinch weld area. If I can figure how to post a picture, I'll put up a picture of mine.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

Use photobucket.com, and then use the IMG tag link and paste it in your post.

I have an 06. I'll take a look once I see exactly what it is you're talking about.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

What is the question?

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

I think he was wondering if he could fab something using those tapped holes.

ObfuscatedV

iTrader: (1)

In regards to wheelhop, curious if anyone has tried a 4-link setup? Found one for a couple hundred bucks, thought about trying it out for ***** and giggles.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

4 link on an IRS? I don't think so brother.

ryridesmotox

4 link is for solid axles. The torque arm is generally a solid axle item also, keeps the axle located properly. Every IRS suspension ever made wheel hops, even solid axles hop under hard acceleration, Google axle wrap and that's what solid axles do. Just the way it is. A lot of horsepower doesn't like to be controlled.