hefftone

I am straight up getting my *** handed to me. I'm installing the the PMC, and I'm done except for reconnecting the MC line to the slave at the reused fitting (the big end)
They seem to fit together fine, but I can't get the big metal horseshoe clip in.
If I put the horshoe clip in first, I can't push the fitting past it.

Its really pissing me off because all the other fittings worked perfectly either way..but this one is being stubborn and my hands are almost crippled at this point. I can't figure out why this **** won't go on.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

Wow, I don't know much about that fitting because when I installed mine, the two pieces were in my hands for no more than 20 seconds before the connection was made and dropped from view. Bummer that yours is a gotcha. Hope you figure it out.

54inches

iTrader: (4)

If you put some grease on the horseshoe clip and place it in the groove; push the connectors together and hold them with one hand. Use you other hand to push the clip in....

ryridesmotox

Dang dude, I've had mine on and off like 20 times.

If you push the male fitting too far into the female end, you can't get the clip in, if you don't push it in far enough, you can't get the clip in. Unless you have an obstruction, all you should have to do is push it in all the way, then let it out slowly. Pay attention to the clip channel. When the male end is backed out far enough, you will be able to see pretty clearly when the clip goes in.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

I know what your exact problem is, and I did the same thing. You are probably trying to put the clip in the same way that it goes in the smaller fittings. It goes in the opposite way for the large connection. Look for the flat spot on the fitting and it will make sense.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Getting mine to reseat properly was the hardest part of the PMC install. It'll go eventually.

hefftone

LOL,

Well **** me..... I would not have figured that **** out for a couple more days, lol.

I had the female rotated 90° out..... I found the flat spot and it went in with ease. Good call sir, I owe you a drink!

Aside from this fitting making me look retarded, and disconnecting the plug from the clutch switch the install went rather smooth. Philistine's instruction are great, but not quite tard proof.

Now I gotta figure out how I'm going to bleed this mess without a remote bleeder.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

You need something like this to easily crack the bleeder open http://www.grainger.com/product/WEST...n-Wrench-3LU26. It has to be as close to 3.5" as possible. Even a 4" wrench will be more difficult, but probably possible. It frigging sucks to get a piece of tubing on there as well. Remote bleeder is one of the best $50 mods, but sucks that you have to pull the trans.

1BADCTS

iTrader: (17)

Wish I had known that!

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Is there anything special about that OEM connection between the master and slave lines? Or can that be deleted?

I have a Tilton slave cylinder setup that was done by RPS.



There's a braided line coming off the slave (not shown in the pic above, but you can see the fitting where it attaches on the side of the slave). The shop that did the install took the OEM connector off the LS7 slave I had and installed that onto the end of the braided line to mate up to the OEM connector on the line coming from the master cylinder. It's hard to get a picture with everything in the way, but you can see the blue end of the -3AN line, a black piece threaded into the blue piece (I assume that's an adapter), then the big black OEM connector from the LS7 slave.



The PMC kit has you do the same thing with the other side of the OEM connector - use an adapter on the end of the supplied braided line and then the OEM connector clips onto that adapter. What I'm wondering is if there's any reason I need to keep those OEM connectors? If I've got 2 braided lines, can I just connect them with a male-to-male coupler fitting? Or are those OEM connectors more than just connectors (like there's a check valve inside there or some other function)?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

It serves no purpose other than to be a quick connect. Allowing you to not get covered in brake fluid, and theoretically, allowing you to skip the bleeding process of it is simply connected and disconnected. Also, keeping the master from not flowing dry on removal and causing serious bleeding issues later. Once air is in that master it can be a pita

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Ahhh, so it's a dry break fitting? (I think that's the right term.) In that case I might as well keep that in there.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it's pretty convenient to keep that fitting, especially if you plan on disconnecting it more than a couple times.

Sssnake

Details please.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Looks like an off-the-shelf unit with a huge ****** aluminum cylinder under it?

philistine

iTrader: (2)

With your set-up you can eliminate the quick disconnect (dry break fitting) and use a -3AN to -4AN adapter to couple your hydraulic hose. At some point you're not going back stock the deeper you go. The PMC (Tilton or Wilwood) kits are made to be reversible back to stock for those that take off mods and sell later when done with the car - that OEM adapter is needed to take it back stock with the OEM MC take-off. However, if you purchase a brand new OEM master cylinder, it comes with an adapter (dry break fitting).

You decide

The Tilton slave is pricey but a great option and I'm sure it's treating you well. I'm sure many are interested on your feedback regarding the slave.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I'll start a new thread on the Tilton slave, just so it doesn't get lost in this thread.

kingandrew99

The female end on mine is so deep into the bell housing that I will not be able to pull that clip out unless I drop the tranny again. Is there another way I can do this without pulling the trans back out? I wish I had known I was going to have trouble connecting this line.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

If you want to start a thread, I'll contribute what I can from the McLeod user's perspective. McLeod has a great 4AN dry break clutch line (which you should try) that will work with any system that uses 4AN fitting. Their slave cylinders are also good, however, they can develop leaking issues around the feed/return fittings. This is due to McLeod's swivel fitting design, which requires o-rings to maintain a good seal. By contrast, the Tilton feed/return fittings appear to be fixed, which probably makes them more reliable.

Because of the leakage issue, I've had to rebuild my slave several times and I've been considering replacing my McLeod slave with a Tilton slave. Before I drop another $400-600 on a slave, I want to get both companies' perspectives on which throwout bearing style is best (McLeod likes flat, whereas Tilton offers a couple of styles) and compare/contrast the length adjustment features of each design. McLeod'a solution is really simple and reliable--a set of stackable machined ring-shaped shims. In my searches, I haven't been able to find any information on how Tilton's designs address this challenge.