itsdaveonline

I've been really thinking hard about doing this over the last few months, and im about to pull the trigger. I'm set on getting the tick performance SNS stg 1 cams. Specs are 227/231 | .63x"/.59x" | LSA111+2. Great lope with +7 overlap and i really like the useable RPM range for a DD and it's a "larger" stg 1 cam compared to others.

Should i stick with the stock pushrods and just get the BTR upgraded valvesprings? My motor is bone stock, and only has 59,000 Mi. If i do get upgraded pushrods should i consider 7.400" or 7.425"?

Also, i don't beat the **** outta my V 24/7. It mostly lives at 2-3500RPM. I'm thinking I may be able to get away with the stock ls2 oil pump.

Anyone have recommendations on supporting valve-train parts? I'm trying to be fairly budget conscious.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Doesn't sound like a very mild cam to me. Hell no I wouldn't run stock pushrods. Also, you're supposed to measure for pushrod length. I didn't have the convenience of measuring length then ordering and installing. Instead, I got stock length in the hopes of it working....got a pushrod length checker and needed much longer ones, so I put in new ones about 2 weeks after cam install.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Nobody can really say yes you need this length pushrod. You have to measure. With that much lift, you're going to need longer pushrods. Also, I hope you have some good valve springs to go along with that cam.

And another note, check both intank and exhaust for pushrod length. I'm running two different length pushrods in my engine because of the lobe differences.

ryridesmotox

BTR would have a really good idea of what length to get. While I'm sure there are very minor differences in motors, let's be real, they've probably install hundreds of these cams. I'd run a beefier aftermarket pushrod either way

itsdaveonline

Yeah like i said it's a larger stage 1 cam or a baby stage 2 cam. I spoke with someone over at tick but it wasn't Martin. They said use stockers or 7.400 length? From what i understand the base circle may be slightly different on an aftermarket cam hense the need for different pushrods. I will measure but the idea is to buy the right size from the getgo. So def seeking some second opinions.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Stock length is usually a good starting point but no such luck for me. Pushrod length checker is $20, but your car might need to be down a little longer if you need longer ones. Also, try not to get caught up in the stage 1, stage 2 naming. It's meaningless.

05CTSV

iTrader: (16)

For what it's worth unless your changing the lifters, milling the heads, using thinner head gaskets, or changing rocker arms, the stock length on any LS is 7.400. All of the above would certainly require a longer or shorter push rod depending.

When I bought my Tick SNS stage 3 a couple years ago Martin assured me the stock length was fine. I took his word for it, he seems to know his stuff. This year I changed the heads to some trick flows and needed a longer push rod.

That said the the safest route is to measure, the tool is cheap and its easy to do. As far as going with the hardened push rods, YES. If your upgrading to the dual springs your seat pressures are going to be higher. Would the stock rods work, probably, for how long with dual springs and that much lift, that's questionable. If you want to save a few bucks, Tick has their own brand of push rods that run a few buck less than the Comp version.

You can't go wrong with Tick, Martin has a lot of knowledge and their service is awesome.

itsdaveonline

hmm this is interesting. Consensus seems that hardened pushrods are the way to go. Some say I can get away with using stock lenthgths (7.400), including a guy @ tick, and others say ill likely need longer.

I'll definitely be checking the length but was hoping to order a set ahead of time.

Anyone have a preference on the best valve spring compressor tool? Sounds like ill probably just get the install tools w/ upgraded springs, pushrods, and the cam itself. May do the triunion upgrade if that's easy too. Keeping stock rockers oil pump and chain on.

itsdaveonline

Also curious if anyone else is running sizable cams and passing the sniffer?

Our requirements aren't super strict out here, but ill still have to be under 15 c02 1.2 hydrocarbon and 1.5 Nox

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Definitely use our hardened chromoly push rods. 9/10 if the block isn't decked, heads aren't milled, a valve job hasn't been done and a stock thickness head gasket is used a 7.400" will give 3/4 to 1 and 1/4 turns from zero lash on the rocker arm bolt. Which with a stock lifter is what we run and equals roughly .060-.080" pre load.

I say 9/10 because there are instances due to certain cam cores that do not fit into this scenario.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

Do you hop on here and do a blanket search for "Tick" and then answer all the threads that mention you? haha. I think it shows shops going the extra mile searching out random threads that reference them.

4doortypels

iTrader: (39)

Upgrade the rods... cheap insurance... im running comp 7.400 with my stage 7 camshaft 219/230 .605 .604 117lsa

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

LOL!

LS1tech actually has a keyword notification that I use. Anything that says "Tick" in it, I get an email that tells me about it. I'm not sure if it's available for members, but it's a neat feature IMO, and it keeps me on top of anytime our name comes up.

You wouldn't believe the amount of dang ticking lifter threads I get emails about though...

lo&sloSierra

iTrader: (8)

What's the chances of simply rolling in this cam on existing lifters with 88k on them in a well serviced engine on a 05 and not having an issue?

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

There are tons of cammed guys with 150k+ on the motor. I don't plan on doing lifters until it's time to do piston/rod or head work.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Most likely you won't have an issue, but I have become less and less confident in factory OEM lifters.

Most customers don't seem to have issues, at least not right away. This isn't meant to scare you, it's just what I have seen personally.

I have seen many customers go years on stock lifters without a problem. I've seen customers go years on LS7 lifters without a problem as well.

ryridesmotox

I think Brian had issues in his LSX block with LS7 lifters. As I recall they messed up his cam pretty good. Not as bad as some other people, but still had some pretty bad wear. They just don't perform as well on aggressive setups. I am having to run "LS7" lifters for now since I've stretched my budget a weeeee smidge beyond the limit. But I'm planning on addressing that in a year or so.

Martin would know better than I, but I seem to remember a while back, reading a million page thread about Comp Cam failures. And as I recall, most of those were running with LS7 OEM style lifters. Not that an aftermarket lifter won't fail, but I think in general, a more aggressive cam should be matched with better supporting hardware.

D.K

iTrader: (1)

It's not so much the lifters failing as it is the lifter trays. When I pulled my heads, maybe half of the lifters came out with the trays and I had to use a magnet to fish out the rest. This was at 100k. I wouldn't trust those same trays with the added stress I would be throwing at the valvetrain.

bmylez

iTrader: (3)

I have the Lunati high-rpm lifters on my dream sheet, hah.