shadyLS6

So I finally got to installing the Eagle Eye Headlights. I held off mainly because i don't like hacking up stock wiring. Some guys said the Eagle eye connector fit fine with no modifications, others cut and rewired.

I used this video to figure out how to pull the bumper: Its a pain but really isn't hard at all.

I hid the DDM 55W 4500K ballasts in the headlight it self. Used a single bolt to secure, drilled it and used a longer bolt to tap the hole, super soft plastic. Silicone sealant in the bolt hole just in case. All wiring zipped tied down inside the light.



This is the Eagle Eye connector. Use a razor and slice the short tabs off. In the pic, i already sliced off the left tab, about to slice the right. Don't cut up the stock wring, slid right on, no "pins pushed out."

(not pictured) Plugged the headlight washer piping with a SS faster and stock hose clamps reused.

Fogs are 55w 4500K DDM using DEPO knock off STSV fogs.

need to redo the plastidip, held up well from 2011

Overall, pleased with the fit, thought it would have been worse. The light output is fantastic compared to stock. I dont really know what the stock setup was rated at, other than 4300k-4500k. Still need to adjust the cut off as they are pointed to low.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I didn't have any problem with pushing the pins out. My problem was the pins bending when trying to connect them. And once you bend them you're basically permanently screwed. So I ended up bending the halo pin on the driver side head light, I eventually got it straight and clipped in but then it only made connection when it wanted to.

So with that said I'm an advocate for cutting the connector off. I have better connections now, and I mounted the ballast where the stockers went. I do kind of like what you did with the ballast though. At any rate I cut the connector off the car (with enough to reattach if wanted) and cut out the connector on the head light. Hard wired it all together and then sealed off the hole with a stainless plate siliconed on. So it is all sealed up nice. The only problem I see now is in order to remove the headlights I would have to cut the wires. But this can be easily solved with using wiring connectors (like what come with the DDM kit) so Im sure in the future I will have to install them. I'm talking about the blade style connectors.

shadyLS6

Oh that makes sense, I have seen multiple post about the pins pushing out but didn't really understand what the issue was until your post.

edit: rest of the pics of the ballasts for the lurkers.



how i figured out where to drill

tvman66

Just wondering if i change the headlights ,Add new HID kit .
Do you you have to do the fogs and DRL . I have the eagle eye
Halos , 5 pins on factory 4 on headlights ? Wiring Diagram
Would be much appreciated ...

shadyLS6

No you dont need to touch the fogs. I did, as i prefer no amber; my DRLs are disabled, bent the pin in the DRL relay as per the FAQ.

there is a wiring diagram for the headlight connector in the other threads. I figure that one of the pins was for the headlight washer mechanism, but i could be wrong. I'm guessing on that one.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

I've seen some pictures of side-by-side comparisons of OEM headlight housings vs these eBay/Eagle Eye ones, and those folks said the output was far better from the OEM housings (like due to higher quality projector lenses). Surprised you say that you think the new lights have better output from OEM. Also, you said that's 4500k color temp on the new bulbs/ballasts? Looks a lot hotter/blue-er than that, even considering the increased wattage. I had written these headlights off after reading so much negative stuff about them, but now you've got me wondering about pulling the trigger on 'em again. How/where did you hook the halos up? Do they come on with your DRL's, or just with the rest of the parking lights?

Choppy_Idle

Yes, i have similar experiences with my eagle eyes/Depo, i use 55W HID-Kit with 4300k bulbs and it´s being much darker as with origin D1S lamps before, maybe the tinting causes this, but light is more blue as expected!





Best regards,
Ronald

shadyLS6

Ronald, that tint looks great but i think your right, it may be lowering the output.

Halos are wired in place of the 194 parking light in the corner, so they light up with fogs or parking lights. No wiring required just use the connector. So far no negative effects of using the OEM harness on the aftermarket headlight. DRLs are independent of headlights, mine are disabled.



As far as output, my opinion is subjective, i like the crisp cut-off on most new HID low beams. I know, the V is 10 years old on original OEM HIDs Blah blah blah, but the OEM HIDs had no clear cutoff.

I have found that the adjustment on these are lacking. That may be me cranking down the mounting bolts to much. aka user error but im not taking off the bumper to mess with it. I was worried about the gap people were complaining about, so i cranked them down. The resulting gap is minimal but not OEM for sure. Adjusted per youtube directions on how to aim headlights lol, the cut-off is on point to what i see on the road.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

Do you have any better shots of this fitment issue/gap that you speak of?
I was thinking of going with a 5-6k color temp just so my headlights match the fogs and other "white" bulbs on the car (they're all LED converted to 6k white bulbs, except signals which are amber LEDs). Looking at your 4300k setup makes me wonder though. I'm not looking for 'rice blue', but I do like the color temp of the current LEDs I have. They're a crisp white with a hint of blue. Similar to a "daylight" LED or CFL household bulb.

shadyLS6

My bad, missed your post. This is the issue i was referencing. The aftermarket headlight doesn't have the fit of the OEM. I notice this misalignment within 2 feet. 5 feet, cant see it.

I matched my 55W fogs to my 55W low beams. IMO, the perfect color temp, crispy white. Very happy with it after a few months. IF i was to do it all over, I would install better Hi-beams. I rarely use them, but they are yellow in comparison to the pure white DDM 55W 4500K lows.

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

No worries, thanks for the response. THat gap doesn't look too bad... similar to the LED tail lights I got from eBay. They're not perfect OEM fit, but they're still OK.
Man, the bulb colour temp is really a difficult decision to make. The pics above actually look more "blue" than I want... and that's at 4300k (at 55w, which actually washes some of the colour OUT). My fogs are "80w" (1200 lumen) LED's at 5k colour, and my little accent bulbs in the corner of the OEM light are 5k LED's too. That's the colour I want my low and high beams to match. I'm obviously going HID for the low beams, but I'm just going to use a colour-matched halogen (or maybe LED) for the highs since I really don't use them much and I just want them to match everything else when I unlock the car with my fob. A little ocd? Maybe. So my plan WAS Morimoto (TRS) 35w 5k HID's for the low beams, but now your pics have me second guessing. I guess cameras and computer screens can mess with the appearance of the light colour a lot too though. Perhaps it's best to go with matching temps all around and just hope for the best.

shadyLS6

Slightly OCD for sure but I understand the frustration, i did the same thing when faced with cutting the wiring to install. Should i buy or not. The color in that photo i posted is pretty spot on to what my eyes see in person, subjectively. So your 35W kit might be the way to go.

Overall happy with the light color and even happier with the projector output and DDM Kit. I've had great luck with DDM ballasts and blubs, no flickering or igniting issues, replaced the fogs 55W bulbs after 6 years of use. no issues other than that.

make sure to post pics when you pull the trigger and install

wes8398

iTrader: (2)

shady - sorry, but what are you running for fog and high beam bulbs? LED's or halogens? Aside from my decision about what to put in the headlight location, I'm also trying to figure out what I want in the high beam location. With never having seen how the wiring works in these housings though, I'm not sure what size/type of bulb I can fit in there. I'd like to give a set like this (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-New-60W-7200LM-LED-Car-Headlight-Kit-Bulbs-H1-H8-H9-H11-9005-9006-9145-9140-/390923750239?hash=item5b04df0b5f&vxp=mtr#ht_7498wt_1153) a try, espeically given their lumen output, but they say they aren't compatible with housings that use dust caps. I've looked at pictures of the eBay halo headlights and I can't seem to figure out where all the connectors are located and so on. Do all the bulbs somehow connect via that one female plug on the back of the housing?

shadyLS6

Fogs : H10 ddm 55W 4500k
lows: H7 ddm 55W 4500k
highs: H1 stock bulb in the new headlight - i think i might go with a proper LED. Let me know if you find a reputable brand. LEDs have been hit or miss with my experience.

the headlights have internal wiring harnesses so its plug and play. No dust caps to interfere with the bulb, don't worry about it. get the right bulbs and they will fit.