Choppy_Idle

Who has done this before?

We wanna drop engine+trans on a lifter on Sat., who has tips what to do and what has to consider like wiring harness or other lines who has to be disconnected?

Tried a search, but found nothing, most peoples pulled to the top without trans, this isnīt a option for me, thanks!

Best regards,
Ronald

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

From what I've seen here, that's the way the manual says to do it. I don't think the harnesses are to bad but you'll be recharging the AC. Do you have an evacuation pump?

I've done it on other platforms and if you have a lift and a table jack to do it with, it's slam dunk easy. I've also done it by sitting the cradle down on a couple of dollies and then using an engine hoist to lift the body off the drivetrain. That would be a bitch on this car I think.

Good Luck

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...tom-cts-v.html

Choppy_Idle

A/C is empty since my last action on the car, a unwanted quick evacuation has happend, after i pulled a line in the front beside the rad *argh*

The Tex guy from link disconnect more the needed or expected from me, hope i did not need all this parts to disconnect, will go other route by testing, but some good tips in this thread, thanks!

I was thinking on disconnect harness direct in fusebox and let all cables on their plugs, which weren't fixed via zip ties on the body, will this work?

And i will try to disconnect front axels on the lower control arm, so i can leave the upper part with spring, shock and the most important thing, let the brake calipers on their place, so i didn't have to disconnect them, so i didn't need to bleed the whole brake system, this would be one of my biggest pains here, hope it will work, like i'm thinking of?!

Best regards,
Ronald

Choppy_Idle

Engine is now out since last Sat!

It was a bad action, bec of very warm wheather, so it takes about 8hrs to pull him to the bottom, drinked over 3 Liters and never run to the toilet...

Some pics (sorry for crappy cell phone pics):























What also takes a lot of time was disconnect the brake lines on booster and ABS block and to reach the lines we had also to disconnect rad and a/c cooler, bec we have to put the front carrier back to roll the car out from the Garage!

This was not expected and i was scared about doing that, bec of also bleeding and filling the whole brake system, only "good" was, didnīt have to disconnect the steering pump and lines!

But a new questions popped up in form from rear cover gasket, there were a official GM Bulletin out there of loosing oil in the rear, who has it and can tell me about that, where does the oil comes out, gasket or surface from Aluminium brass bec of bubbles into or something like that?

Does this lookes like this issue or only clutch dust or a leaking main seal (there was a oil drop on it, i have a new one here, will install):









Best regards,
Ronald

lollygagger8

iTrader: (7)

That's pretty badass. Good job!

I'd clean up the engine bay while you have everything out.

I'd also replace the motor mounts, rear main seal, clutch/dual flywheel while you have it all out. Put a remote line on that slave too.

I've personally never heard of anything leaking from the back of the engine other than the rear main seal which I replaced the last time I did my clutch.

Oh, and put some headers on that thing!

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...lace-seal.html

Aaron Thomas

iTrader: (1)

My '07 was leaking worse than that when I was installing my clutch. Took more time than I anticipated for the clutch because of it. If it is out replace the oil pan gasket, rear cover gasket and rear main seal. not hard, just don't over-torque any of the fasteners as they are torqued very low. Just imagine how mad you would be if you put it back in there and it developed even more of a leak within the next year. Worth putting new gaskets on it.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

What's up with the right motor mount in this photo? Is that a poly mount with a heat shield and a stock mount on the left? Is this the setup you're running?

Choppy_Idle

Bud, you are a good observer

Iīve bought a complete set from CS mounts with rear, trans and motor, so the last piece will be the trans bushing when i overhaul my rear diff!

Here are some pics of damaged motor mount only driver side, i was really shocked after seeing this, i had never expected that the inner part only hangs on a hair of rubber...









Here is new CS mount in place:





Also surprising was condition of clutch, flywheel and disc, what can caused this, a always dragging clutch or some liquid in form from engine oil or brake fluid from slave?













Best regards,
Ronald

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

All of that is why I pull from the top. No messing with brake lines, A/C lines or power steering lines. Plus it takes less than half the time to do it from the top.

Choppy_Idle

Installed new pmc, what kind of a bitch,especially tighten the knurled collar with set screws, it takes 3 hours for installing and adjusting, hanging in the leg area twisted like a snake, hope he never must leave this place again, i think i took then the flame cutter to save time and body integry







Then rerouting the pressure line from slave with a tube bender, never seen a pic before from that place by other users, how did you bend the line?

Is there enough space for the routing i did, especially the black line bracket on top of bell housing?









Best regards,
Ronald

07Cadv

You think it was a bitch??? Try it with the motor and tranny IN the car!!!!

Choppy_Idle

Think it doesn't matter if engine+trans is mounted in the car to install pmc, but changing slave would only be possible when trans is disconnected, thats true!

07Cadv

To me it would be much easier with the motor and trans out. It was almost an all day affair. Very happy with the results though! Only lost around half a pint of blood....

Choppy_Idle

Makin Progress:

Trans back from overhaul, reverse synchro has some wear, one of the main reason from this action, gettin in first try into reverse, no more 5.gear needed before!

The wear maybe caused by dragging clutch, hope now everything would be fine after install and i changed all the damaged parts for smooth shifting...















Wanna change gear ratio in the 6. to 0.69 but doesnīt work, no one has the gears in stock, but there is something upcoming in September, didnīt know, if i want do this action again regarding the costs of it, damn.

Best regards,
Ronald