Help buying an 05 V
#1
Help buying an 05 V
I've been looking for an 06-07 for awhile but stumbled across a high mileage 05 for what seems to be a good deal. What do you guys think of the deal and should I be worried with the mileage? Thanks
http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/de...7836/overview/
http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/de...7836/overview/
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
I bought one with about the same miles for about the same money. I've tried to compile a list of all of the issues I've seen with this platform over the last 3 years of being on the forums, how I went about addressing them and what crops up as I drive it. Some of this is overkill...
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/member.php?u=97002
70K miles later, the car runs and drives better than it did when I bought it but it hasn't always been easy. The motor runs great and the car all in all has held up well. People can't believe it has anywhere near as many miles on it as it does but I got lucky and found the right car honestly. I took the original clutch out of it at 178k and it still had miles left in it.
If you think it hasn't been beat on, buy it.
I do sometimes have LS2 envy just because it would be so easy to drop and LS3 in it.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/member.php?u=97002
70K miles later, the car runs and drives better than it did when I bought it but it hasn't always been easy. The motor runs great and the car all in all has held up well. People can't believe it has anywhere near as many miles on it as it does but I got lucky and found the right car honestly. I took the original clutch out of it at 178k and it still had miles left in it.
If you think it hasn't been beat on, buy it.
I do sometimes have LS2 envy just because it would be so easy to drop and LS3 in it.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Paint looks rough, wheels look plastidipped, appears it may have been in a rear end collision because the passenger side rear bumper gap looks off.
Does have a cold air intake and aftermarket aluminum radiator which is good. Either on cut springs or eibach lowering springs.
Id pass, looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.
Does have a cold air intake and aftermarket aluminum radiator which is good. Either on cut springs or eibach lowering springs.
Id pass, looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.
#6
Paint looks rough, wheels look plastidipped, appears it may have been in a rear end collision because the passenger side rear bumper gap looks off.
Does have a cold air intake and aftermarket aluminum radiator which is good. Either on cut springs or eibach lowering springs.
Id pass, looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.
Does have a cold air intake and aftermarket aluminum radiator which is good. Either on cut springs or eibach lowering springs.
Id pass, looks like it was rode hard and put away wet.
I was thinking the same thing but if I can get the car for 9K I might still get it (assuming it runs fine). I checked the Carfax and there was no mention of an accident... The dealer that's selling it is also offering a 5 year 100K warranty. I'm not sure how legit this warranty is but sales person over the phone said I could take it to any Cadillac dealership with no deductible.
#7
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Definitely worth checking out. If there are problems with it they'll probably be apparent, but maybe not to someone unfamiliar with the platform. Is it local to you? If so are there any guys from the board willing to check it out for/with you? That may be your best bet. If someone was interested in a car in Atlanta I would check it out for them and have done it for other cars in the past. Hit the boards up for someone who may do the same.
Just noticed it's in SoCal. If it has been for the majority if its life, that's probably a good thing--as long as it's not stolen.
Just noticed it's in SoCal. If it has been for the majority if its life, that's probably a good thing--as long as it's not stolen.
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#8
Definitely worth checking out. If there are problems with it they'll probably be apparent, but maybe not to someone unfamiliar with the platform. Is it local to you? If so are there any guys from the board willing to check it out for/with you? That may be your best bet. If someone was interested in a car in Atlanta I would check it out for them and have done it for other cars in the past. Hit the boards up for someone who may do the same.
Just noticed it's in SoCal. If it has been for the majority if its life, that's probably a good thing--as long as it's not stolen.
Just noticed it's in SoCal. If it has been for the majority if its life, that's probably a good thing--as long as it's not stolen.
Heres the Carfax
http://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory...r=AMG_1#Owner1
#9
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Some items to check for:
1. Get it on the hwy above 70mph and check for vibrations (typically driveshaft related) $300-$500 fix.
2. Motor mounts - difficult to see without sticking your head under the car, but easiest to spot if there is noticeable shaking at shut-down.
3. Try to get the dealer history of the service on the car. This should tell you when warranty items were last replaced such as rear differentials--this should also be an indicator of how it was driven. Mine was beaten and broke 4 differentials before I got it. At least is has the most recent differential part type.
4. Check for headlight deterioration. If it was recently detailed, they were likely buffed out, and within a month in the sun they'll look like crap again. They'll need to be polished and clear coated to last.
5. How does the shifter feel? If it's been lowered there's a good chance the shifter has been upgraded. If not, they probably parted it out before sale/trade.
6. Jacking points: if they're beat to ****, it's likely that there was a lot of garage wrenching with carelessness. Not always a red flag, but definitely a cause for concern.
1. Get it on the hwy above 70mph and check for vibrations (typically driveshaft related) $300-$500 fix.
2. Motor mounts - difficult to see without sticking your head under the car, but easiest to spot if there is noticeable shaking at shut-down.
3. Try to get the dealer history of the service on the car. This should tell you when warranty items were last replaced such as rear differentials--this should also be an indicator of how it was driven. Mine was beaten and broke 4 differentials before I got it. At least is has the most recent differential part type.
4. Check for headlight deterioration. If it was recently detailed, they were likely buffed out, and within a month in the sun they'll look like crap again. They'll need to be polished and clear coated to last.
5. How does the shifter feel? If it's been lowered there's a good chance the shifter has been upgraded. If not, they probably parted it out before sale/trade.
6. Jacking points: if they're beat to ****, it's likely that there was a lot of garage wrenching with carelessness. Not always a red flag, but definitely a cause for concern.
#10
Some items to check for:
1. Get it on the hwy above 70mph and check for vibrations (typically driveshaft related) $300-$500 fix.
2. Motor mounts - difficult to see without sticking your head under the car, but easiest to spot if there is noticeable shaking at shut-down.
3. Try to get the dealer history of the service on the car. This should tell you when warranty items were last replaced such as rear differentials--this should also be an indicator of how it was driven. Mine was beaten and broke 4 differentials before I got it. At least is has the most recent differential part type.
4. Check for headlight deterioration. If it was recently detailed, they were likely buffed out, and within a month in the sun they'll look like crap again. They'll need to be polished and clear coated to last.
5. How does the shifter feel? If it's been lowered there's a good chance the shifter has been upgraded. If not, they probably parted it out before sale/trade.
6. Jacking points: if they're beat to ****, it's likely that there was a lot of garage wrenching with carelessness. Not always a red flag, but definitely a cause for concern.
1. Get it on the hwy above 70mph and check for vibrations (typically driveshaft related) $300-$500 fix.
2. Motor mounts - difficult to see without sticking your head under the car, but easiest to spot if there is noticeable shaking at shut-down.
3. Try to get the dealer history of the service on the car. This should tell you when warranty items were last replaced such as rear differentials--this should also be an indicator of how it was driven. Mine was beaten and broke 4 differentials before I got it. At least is has the most recent differential part type.
4. Check for headlight deterioration. If it was recently detailed, they were likely buffed out, and within a month in the sun they'll look like crap again. They'll need to be polished and clear coated to last.
5. How does the shifter feel? If it's been lowered there's a good chance the shifter has been upgraded. If not, they probably parted it out before sale/trade.
6. Jacking points: if they're beat to ****, it's likely that there was a lot of garage wrenching with carelessness. Not always a red flag, but definitely a cause for concern.
The warranty they're offering is really what's easing the pain of the high mileage
I'm coming from a 2010 Camaro SS but I've always had a soft spot for cts-v's and really wish I could afford a V2 but with a baby on the way the wife won't let me spend 30K on a car, I've decided its time for a fun 4 door lol
#11
I'm not too sure about your area but it doesn't seem like a good deal to me, it just seems priced at what it should be especially considering the concerns that people mentioned above. I got my 05 about a year ago with 86k miles for 12k. my advice would be to go test drive it but keep looking around. It would be nice if once you found one that suits you, you will have driven a few to see what they should feel like.
#12
I'm not too sure about your area but it doesn't seem like a good deal to me, it just seems priced at what it should be especially considering the concerns that people mentioned above. I got my 05 about a year ago with 86k miles for 12k. my advice would be to go test drive it but keep looking around. It would be nice if once you found one that suits you, you will have driven a few to see what they should feel like.
In CA they're ranging from 11K to 25K depending on mileage and condition.
#13
Update:
Went to see the car and the interior is in great shape but the rest of the car was ruff. The car was someone's race car before it was traded in. Dealer tried selling it to me for 12K out the door I laughed and he asked what I would offer, He wasn't happy when I said 8-9K...
So still on the hunt for stockish 06-07
Went to see the car and the interior is in great shape but the rest of the car was ruff. The car was someone's race car before it was traded in. Dealer tried selling it to me for 12K out the door I laughed and he asked what I would offer, He wasn't happy when I said 8-9K...
So still on the hunt for stockish 06-07
#15
#16
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
You just missed a pretty nice one in SoCal for about 15k IIRC. Be patient and don't buy the first one you see (that was my mistake). Looks like you've passed on the first though, so you've already passed that step.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...installed.html
Not my thread, but a contributor with pics.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...installed.html
Not my thread, but a contributor with pics.
#17
Mine is still up for sale (we talked through PM in ctsvowners.com)
Have a folder of maintenance receipts from previous owner.
2006 CTS-V LS2 114k miles and climbing as its my DD.
Just finished installing a 150 shot of nitrous from Nitrous Outlet.
Kooks 1 3/4 longtube headers with highflow cats
stock resonators
muffler delete
Creative Steel Rear Diff, Trans and motor mounts.
Just needs a front o2 sensor replaced.
The only reason why i am considering selling (for the right price) is because we just got an 08 tahoe and the wife doesnt like it, so im keeping that and getting something smaller for her.
$16,500
Have a folder of maintenance receipts from previous owner.
2006 CTS-V LS2 114k miles and climbing as its my DD.
Just finished installing a 150 shot of nitrous from Nitrous Outlet.
Kooks 1 3/4 longtube headers with highflow cats
stock resonators
muffler delete
Creative Steel Rear Diff, Trans and motor mounts.
Just needs a front o2 sensor replaced.
The only reason why i am considering selling (for the right price) is because we just got an 08 tahoe and the wife doesnt like it, so im keeping that and getting something smaller for her.
$16,500
#18
Mine is still up for sale (we talked through PM in ctsvowners.com)
Have a folder of maintenance receipts from previous owner.
2006 CTS-V LS2 114k miles and climbing as its my DD.
Just finished installing a 150 shot of nitrous from Nitrous Outlet.
Kooks 1 3/4 longtube headers with highflow cats
stock resonators
muffler delete
Creative Steel Rear Diff, Trans and motor mounts.
Just needs a front o2 sensor replaced.
The only reason why i am considering selling (for the right price) is because we just got an 08 tahoe and the wife doesnt like it, so im keeping that and getting something smaller for her.
$16,500
Have a folder of maintenance receipts from previous owner.
2006 CTS-V LS2 114k miles and climbing as its my DD.
Just finished installing a 150 shot of nitrous from Nitrous Outlet.
Kooks 1 3/4 longtube headers with highflow cats
stock resonators
muffler delete
Creative Steel Rear Diff, Trans and motor mounts.
Just needs a front o2 sensor replaced.
The only reason why i am considering selling (for the right price) is because we just got an 08 tahoe and the wife doesnt like it, so im keeping that and getting something smaller for her.
$16,500
#19
Launching!
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I don't usually go for modded but that car is in seriously great shape. In the case of a V you can't get much of a better deal. His mods alone cost more than that first car you looked at is worth. I am something of an expert on what a stock 04 v is worth and you can bet that if I were in your shoes I would be talking with him about this black car.