NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

I just want to go on record and state that the high mileage LS6 @ 550RWHP boosted will not last long. 8 or 7 will fry and start burning oil in less than 3,000 miles. Any takers for that bet!? I will throw 100$ on it. Does paypal do betting services?

1BADCADDY

Thanks DMM, I'm trying to come up to speed on the LS stuff as fast as I can. I do realize the 2300 is rather large for my 5.7, but more cubes are coming down the road.


NIKDSC5, you are probably right. Hopefully it will last long enough I can get a shortblock ready to go in.

88BlackZ-51

So about $13000. Let us know what the tally is....Hot rodding isnt cheap!

88BlackZ-51

How many miles? Mine has 480 wheel running through it with 8 lbs but only 75000 miles. She runs top notch!

1BADCADDY

This hobby seems cheap compared to truck pulling (my other hobby). I spent over 10k on turbo's last year, injection pump alone was 4500. I'm still getting by on stock cryo'd shot peened rods only because I don't want to spend the 4000 on new billet ones yet. Pretty crazy that factory rods with an original engine rating of 215 hp are surviving at 1200+ hp and 2000 ft-lbs!


LS6 has 150k on it, ran excellent before I pulled it apart. Cross hatching still looks good in the cylinders. IDK, maybe I'll luck out. Since mine has more miles, the ring gaps are probably opened up a little more, hopefully it won't stick a ring/piston with the E-force until I can get a shortblock built.

1BADCADDY

I got all of the fuel system ordered today, going with a full return style system with twin DW300 pumps thanks to this link: https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...17274=A995B605

serik21

Lol does 70k count as high milage. Cause if it does I'll take that bet

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Most run 6-8 pounds. 10 pounds + is a fail. The only reason why the OP's might last longer is because he is lowering compression. Even then His goal of 550-600rwhp will require 12psi (approx). With 150k? Yeah....kiss #7 and 8 ring lands good by. I did it in my C5 @6psi and 100k.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Most of whether a motor gets lunched at boost or not is in the tune. If you get a one and done, it's rolling the dice. If you know how to tune and keep your eyes on it as the weather and anything else changes, your chances increase exponentially. There is a limit to what a particular motor can take but its hardly limited to miles and a set power level. Also how you drive it will contribute quite a bit to the story too.

serik21

Not every motor is the same. Most ls6 motors will take 5-600 whp with a good tune. Most reputable tunners have plenty of customers running on that setup for years. Also keep in mind 10 psi is not the same for every setup. Meaning 10 psi on stock header and cats and exhaust will be more damaging to the motor then lets say 10 psi motor on heads came headers and no cats.

1BADCADDY

Why are the #7 and #8 ring lands the weak link? I imagine that must be the hottest area in the block or is it due to least amount of airflow back there? While disassembling parts I noticed the rear steam ports (not sure if that is what it is called) are blocked off on this engine and the front ones have a small line coming out.


What compression were you at in your C5?


I bought a HP Tuner Pro last week, never tuned anything before. Probably get a tune to start with and go from there. That reminds me I need to get a few gauges as well.


I just got the cam installed and now I need to look up some torque values so I can start putting things back together.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

10:1. I wish the stock bottom end and boost list was updated. But even still, go check out that list. It's hit or miss whether or not the Pistons will survive. IMO they will not. And yes, 7&8 get too hot. One way to help that is get the steam vent kit that opens up the rears too.

Naf

iTrader: (1)

My buddy had a ls1 with a 2300 and loved it. Made great power and tore the crap out of his tires all day long.

He then upgraded his car and did it again on a 6.0

1BADCADDY

Some pics from last night, got the new oil pump and timing chain setup put on as well as the new Stage I blower cam from BTR installed. Never worked on a LS engine before but I'm really digging the style of gaskets used, makes it so damn easy. Even dropping the oil pan down wasn't too bad.

joe_shmoe

Which oil pump did you install?

DMM

Looking good! You could have used the water pump bolts in the cam to help guide it in, same thread but longer so you can control it a little better.

If you refer to my first E-Force thread, I installed a rear vent which was pretty easy. I don't have an explanation as to why #7 and #8 are always the first to go, the block just seems to be hotter there. The piston ring expands to the point where the ends butt against each other which causes the ring to seize in the bore, and the piston is the weak point and the ring land breaks. If you resize the ring gaps this won't happen.

I can post my tune which should be about 95% of what you need. I'll get it up a bit later.

1BADCADDY

17801830 From BTR.

Damian, that would be fantastic if you would. Thanks!

Sssnake

Ding, ding, ding. There are plenty of examples out there where 10 psi of boost made it 50k miles or more. IMO it is 95% tune. There are definitely thing you can do to help. The steam vents in the back are a good example of one. Run the best IC/HE setup possible. Also run #7 and #8 just a little richer than the other cylinders (I know this is possible on the LS2 V not sure on the LS6 - different controllers). Return style or PWM fuel system. Those are just a few of the many. The more you can eliminate or limit the range of variables (IAT, differential injector pressure) the easier it is to tune and therefore you are more likely to tune it correctly. The pro that tuned my car initially had tuned and driven LSX swapped RX7s that ran 8s on pump gas. He royally screwed the pooch on my tune. Had I just kept running the thing I have no doubt 6 months down the road I would be rebuilding the engine.

To Nick's point about the SBE list. Take a look there are a LOT of cars that make it and some that don't. What is the difference? I don't know but I suspect it is primarily the tune. I have been tuning mine since I went to the EForce. Hell I logged runs to work three days this week and I am still tweaking a few things to get the tune dialed in for weather fluctuations. Mine may be non-typical because I had to scale everything and I didn't use quick and dirty cheat (half IFR double stoich). But IMO once you start making serious hp on these things there are just so many things that need to be upgraded and therefore adjusted in the tune (fuel pump, injectors, MAF). Trying to get part throttle performance (which is where your car really lives for a DD) is challenging to say the least.

1BADCADDY

excellent info. I am going to do the steam vents in the rear as well as a full return style fuel system. Bigger HEX and pump too. I need to figure out yet which way to go for the IAT sensor, I just commented on one of your other posts sssnake about how you did yours.


At what point should the stock MAF get upgraded? Just trying to decide if it makes more sense to replace it now before I go thru all the tuning necessary to dial it in. Possibly change to a LS3/7 style? I'm reading some other posts regarding ecm limits regarding Hz readings from the MAF, not sure yet if it needs changed out or not.

Sssnake

Damian did you look at the rings and if so could you tell that they actually butted? Most say you can take a look at what is left of the ring and observe abrasions in the gap to determine they actually butted and caused the piston to seize. The reason I ask is that I am building a blown 6.0 (LY6) for the boat and was not going to rebuild the bottom end (primarily because I don't know of a good machine shop to take it to). If I reeeeaaaallllllyyyyyy need to I will go ahead and forge the bottom end but I was only going to 6 psi on the thing so was not going to the trouble/expense. However, getting this thing into and out of the boat is a PIA that I would rather only experience once.