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I removed the ignition cylinder, to get the steering column plastics off. Now the ignition cylinder with the key in it won't completely go back in. It will slide back in and sit in the start position. But it doesn't spring back to the run or twist back to the off positions at all.
I removed the ignition cylinder, to get the steering column plastics off. Now the ignition cylinder with the key in it won't completely go back in. It will slide back in and sit in the start position. But it doesn't spring back to the run or twist back to the off positions at all.
05 ctsv.
Any ideas?
Darkman can't help you on this--he only has access to the tech manuals, and they're terrible on this subject. I know because I have them. Now then: is the cylinder completely inserted? If not, you're probably getting fooled by the way that the cylinder has a little keyed nub that follows a stair-step pattern in the cylinder.
I'd recommend putting the key in, pushing the cylinder in as far as it'll go, and rotating the key/cylinder back toward the OFF position with the thumb button pressed. The key/cylinder will rotate a couple of degrees and hit an internal stop. Now you can push it in a few more millimeters. Repeat this process once or twice more (hence the "stair-step" pattern I described earlier) and the cylinder should be in and fully functional.
Cylinder appears to go all the way in.
It also appears to be in the start position, and will not rotate counter clockwise to the run or off positions.
It does have the ability to rotate clockwise a bit, which looks like it's past the start position ???
Cylinder appears to go all the way in.
It also appears to be in the start position, and will not rotate counter clockwise to the run or off positions.
It does have the ability to rotate clockwise a bit, which looks like it's past the start position ???[/IMG]
In the second picture, you're just past the run position. In the third (last) picture, you're at the limit of the start position, where the button is pointing just past the stalk.
Can you back the key and cylinder out, or is it totally stuck? It would also help if we knew what you removed/replaced. There's an interesting old post on CF where the guy misaligned the gear mechanism behind the cylinder and had to redo it.
I haven't had to do this yet but I know my day is coming so a little follow up would be appreciated. Based on the following links, its suggested that the Theft Deterrent System will need to be reprogrammed when replacing the lock cylinder/keys on cars with a PK3 key and that a Tech 2 is required. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Thanks!
The second picture is the position it's in when you slide it it. The 3rd picture is the only location it will rotate to at all.
My thought is that a) there's some debris in the cylinder receiver or b) your steering wheel is locked.
Assuming your steering wheel is locked, find the direction where the wheel feels springy (one direction will stop hard and one will be springy) and hold it there while trying to turn the key. If that doesn't work, remove the cylinder and spray down the interior of the key cylinder receiver with some electronics cleaner and swab it out with a few q-tips.
My thought is that a) there's some debris in the cylinder receiver or b) your steering wheel is locked.
Assuming your steering wheel is locked, find the direction where the wheel feels springy (one direction will stop hard and one will be springy) and hold it there while trying to turn the key. If that doesn't work, remove the cylinder and spray down the interior of the key cylinder receiver with some electronics cleaner and swab it out with a few q-tips.
No luck on these. I feel like my lack of knowledge/experience may be the reason this is not going back in correctly. I called the local dealership to no avail, they would not let me talk to one of the mechanics. Only one of the service sales guys. And he had nothing to provide.
No luck on these. I feel like my lack of knowledge/experience may be the reason this is not going back in correctly. I called the local dealership to no avail, they would not let me talk to one of the mechanics. Only one of the service sales guys. And he had nothing to provide.
Where are you? (Guys on mobiles don't always see profiles)
I'm wondering, sence there is no spring to the cylinder, did I maybe break the peice/parts inside the coulmn that the ignition cylinder slides into? What part is that?
Drew, I don't have any other ideas to help you out. If you can photograph the inside of the cylinder and the outside area, it might help. It's probably something simple, but without being able to visually inspect the area, troubleshooting is a really hard.
I had my lock cylinder in and out about 100 times...during a week where I was tracing down a broken wire... From what I recall.. You stick the cylinder in place and rotate counter clockwise as you push it fully in. Honestly it looks like in your pics that it is not inserted fully... But its hard to tell for sure.. Make sure that any parts in the back of the cavity that are supposed to align with tabs or notches on the cylinder are being aligned properly.
So I decided to tear into it and see if I could see something.
I pulled of the the black peice that I belive is the security sensor for the key. It slides over the ignition. Then underneath that I removed the 2 reverse torx. Removed that plastic peice as well and the large gear underneath that, some how got misaligned with the peice in the back of the ignition. Played with the 2 of those for a minute or so and got it functioning properly. Glad I didn't have to town this thing to the dealer!
Not sure how the gears got misaligned, but everything is working now.
Now I can finish boost gauge and wideband install. Then creative steel short shifter and 8.8 go in this week!
01-03-2016, 08:41 AM
V1 ignition cylinder wont go back in. 
