On The Side of the Road: Regular tow truck or Flatbed?
02-17-2016, 09:57 AM
#2
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****. i hope i never need an answer to this question. when in doubt go flat bed but i really have never needed a tow on this. my 4th gen fbody could be towed with a regular truck though.
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02-17-2016, 01:26 PM
#10
Called a flat bed. Still needed small ramps so the chin and mufflers would clear. Made it with about 1/2" clearance.
Back story, was driving to work this morning and pulled up to a light about halfway there. Light turned green, I let out the clutch, and I thought to myself that the engagement point felt a little different. Nothing major, can't say I even noticed it at the next 3 or 4 lights. About 5min after that, I decided to detour around some construction traffic, pulled a lat minute audible to make a left turn onto a side street. I pulled out from behind the car in front of me, car left fine, and then suddenly, no power, as if I pushed the clutch pedal in. Barely made the turn across on coming traffic with the momentum I had, parked it, tried 1st and reverse, no clutch. I still had a proper pedal, no noises, could shift through all the gears. I'm assuming the clutch disc is gone, literally. Hope the flywheel wasn't torn up, or beat up with hotspots prior to the failure. Strange, brand new LS7 less than two years ago, maybe 12,000 miles tops, never abused a single time.
Back story, was driving to work this morning and pulled up to a light about halfway there. Light turned green, I let out the clutch, and I thought to myself that the engagement point felt a little different. Nothing major, can't say I even noticed it at the next 3 or 4 lights. About 5min after that, I decided to detour around some construction traffic, pulled a lat minute audible to make a left turn onto a side street. I pulled out from behind the car in front of me, car left fine, and then suddenly, no power, as if I pushed the clutch pedal in. Barely made the turn across on coming traffic with the momentum I had, parked it, tried 1st and reverse, no clutch. I still had a proper pedal, no noises, could shift through all the gears. I'm assuming the clutch disc is gone, literally. Hope the flywheel wasn't torn up, or beat up with hotspots prior to the failure. Strange, brand new LS7 less than two years ago, maybe 12,000 miles tops, never abused a single time.
02-18-2016, 01:49 PM
#14
Turns out, clutch is fine. Initial estimate is a popped drivers axle. I installed DSS axles with stock CV's last summer. Not sure what exactly is broken, hoping its just the CV as I never abuse the driveline enough to have broken the inner stub or een the axle itself. Not necessarily a cheaper fix, but quicker none the less.
02-20-2016, 09:47 PM
#17
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My car as an '05 needed the passenger side for no hop and that's what I ordered. I left it on the shelf for almost 2 years until the diff blew. After disassembling the passenger axle, I found out it was mis-boxed and had the proper axle for '06-'07. I put it in anyhow, and it didn't even make it a year. I read that some had the clip groove machined too deep on some.
02-21-2016, 07:08 PM
#18
It broke in the C-clip groove. I used a PDR puller to get the axle end out of the CV.
My car as an '05 needed the passenger side for no hop and that's what I ordered. I left it on the shelf for almost 2 years until the diff blew. After disassembling the passenger axle, I found out it was mis-boxed and had the proper axle for '06-'07. I put it in anyhow, and it didn't even make it a year. I read that some had the clip groove machined too deep on some.
My car as an '05 needed the passenger side for no hop and that's what I ordered. I left it on the shelf for almost 2 years until the diff blew. After disassembling the passenger axle, I found out it was mis-boxed and had the proper axle for '06-'07. I put it in anyhow, and it didn't even make it a year. I read that some had the clip groove machined too deep on some.
I had this happen to me awhile ago too with DSS axles. Look at how deep they cut it, on mine it was way to deep causing it to fail. Stock axles, and geforce axles are only cut to the bottom of the splines and not any further.
I know they had to make a bunch of them this way because my initial set failed, and then they sent me a replacement set a year later that had the same condition. They sent me a new version that was suppose to be fixed, but they completely built it up for me so I never checked. I sold those off and went with Geforce. I am just sad that the DSS axles worked great for getting rid of wheel hop for me, while the geforce axles only worked so-so
02-22-2016, 10:23 AM
#19
I just sent DSS an email inquiring about the C-clip groove issue and if it had been addressed. They responded immediately, surprised, as they were not aware of such a failure in quite some time. I explained that mine were new old stock, bought second hand from the original owner who never installed them.
I'm going to send them pictures of my axle and hopefully find the original box in my garage with a shipping date on it somewhere to shed light on their actual age. Aside from the obvious premature failure, these axles, combined with the RevShift bushings, eliminated my wheel hop in a majority of my driving conditions. I would prefer to use them again vs. switching to another brand.
I'm going to send them pictures of my axle and hopefully find the original box in my garage with a shipping date on it somewhere to shed light on their actual age. Aside from the obvious premature failure, these axles, combined with the RevShift bushings, eliminated my wheel hop in a majority of my driving conditions. I would prefer to use them again vs. switching to another brand.
02-22-2016, 10:49 AM
#20
I just sent DSS an email inquiring about the C-clip groove issue and if it had been addressed. They responded immediately, surprised, as they were not aware of such a failure in quite some time. I explained that mine were new old stock, bought second hand from the original owner who never installed them.
I'm going to send them pictures of my axle and hopefully find the original box in my garage with a shipping date on it somewhere to shed light on their actual age. Aside from the obvious premature failure, these axles, combined with the RevShift bushings, eliminated my wheel hop in a majority of my driving conditions. I would prefer to use them again vs. switching to another brand.
I'm going to send them pictures of my axle and hopefully find the original box in my garage with a shipping date on it somewhere to shed light on their actual age. Aside from the obvious premature failure, these axles, combined with the RevShift bushings, eliminated my wheel hop in a majority of my driving conditions. I would prefer to use them again vs. switching to another brand.