tlorenzen

As the title says, need some ideas on what the source of this could be. Read some threads but nothing seemed quite the same...

Yesterday I got the car street tuned and did a few pulls (no digs or gear slams) and now I'm getting a pretty serious vibration only when accelerating (worst between 40-80mph) and what almost sounds like a screeching noise while just cruising 35mph + ..the car feels normal at cruising speed but getting there is worrisome. I also noticed what felt almost like a binding feeling when taking off from first...

What I've checked.

Lugs, cradle bushings, diff bushings, excessive engine movement, long tubes touching steering column, diff fluid, and all are good. The bolts that go through the plates that connect the DS to the pinion were loose, so I re-torqued them and zero change.

The DS is sagging in the carrier but it doesn't look any different than it did 20k miles ago. Possible it's a hub? Anything else to look at? Won't have the $800 to do voodoos driveshaft service for a few weeks unfortunately, but something smaller I'm willing to give a go.

Car has Revshift 7 month old motor mounts, trans block, cradle and diff bushings..rest OEM.

Nintastio

Do you still have the stock crank pulley/balancer on the car? Have you taken a look at that yet? Just a guess based on forum reading, but worth a look I suppose.

tlorenzen

Put a new ATI 10% UD balancer on last week as the old one started coming apart (Squealing and chewed a belt). I can rev the car up to whatever and it's smooth as butter now.

I suppose it might be worth putting the torque wrench on it to make sure the bolt didn't back itself out, but I followed proper torque specs and used loctite on everything and wouldn't think it would change under load of moving car vs just the accessories.

Thanks! Free things to check are always a great place to start.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Are there timing marks on the balancer you recently installed? You could maybe check timing to see if it is slipping around. Sometimes the keyway can fail in an engine and the balancer will spin. do you have any videos of the noise? Of course it can be in the drivetrain elsewhere, who knows maybe even the trans if you feel a drag in first. First is very highly geared and the fact you notice there could be slight binding is worthy of a second look at trans/diff/hub/bearing type of parts.

Bio248

the V crank is not keyed. the balancer is just pressed on and held by the crank bolt. no timing to be done with it.

tlorenzen

^ This...Although the balance does have timing marks. The vibrations definitely feel to be coming from the middle to rear.

I've kept on reading and am kind of leaning to the cv going out on the driveshaft. Not 100% certain though.

raven154

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like your carrier bearing to me.

Fweasel

iTrader: (6)

DS carrier bearing.

How is Voodoo's service $800? Do you live in Hawaii?

tlorenzen

Found the issue...CV joint. And its $800 temporarily with the core swap. My statement was intended that I didn't have that currently even though actual cost is the $420. I daily my car so I cannot let it sit 8-10 days. Gotta get to work somehow.

DOHCsky let me borrow his old driveshaft for the time being and I'm sending in my old one for the carrier bearing and refreshing both CV's. If you have one of his cores send em back cause I would've been f*cked had he not let me borrow his.

http://vid582.photobucket.com/albums...pslus8a5gr.mp4

SE-R Spec

iTrader: (2)

I believe this is the same issue I am having (although my carrier bearing is prob shot too). Is there a way for us to service the CV joint without sending it to Voodoo?

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

Usually it's the bearing cage that goes bad and that's typically an easy fix....if you can find parts. Of course, the V1 uses an oddball joint and I don't know where you'd find parts.

tlorenzen

I was looking for parts for it and didn't find anything. Figured it'd just be easier to send it off to Matt at Voodoo and have him do the poly carrier and rebuild both CVs. Sounds a hell of a lot better than buying a new one for twice the cost.

ls1247

iTrader: (2)

There's been talk that some of the VW touareg stuff might work but I've never seen that confirmed.

Choppy_Idle

I ´ve tried this, but in won`t work bec of wrong spline count and Diameter on rear cv-Joint between Touareg and our shaft!

You can use rear cv-Joint boot, the middle boot and with little welding the new bearing and stronger bushing to the CTS-V bracket and maybe parts from the inner middle cv-Joint from the Touareg shaft!

Regards,
Ronald

SE-R Spec

iTrader: (2)

I am thoroughly confused with the above post. So what you are saying is that the Touareg cv itself will not fit but you can Frankenstein parts from it to rebuild the CTS V one?