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Finally got 90% of my parts together and ready to start the build…
Some of you already know the background that led me down this path from a thread I posted seeking advice back in August so bear with me but I think it’s worth sharing again for everyone else. During this past summer I was installing headers on my 05 V. Unfortunately, but predictably, one of the studs broke off in the head. After many attempts to get it out without having to take the heads off I gave up and took the heads off. Well now the heads were off so I might as well do some needed maintenance on a 150K engine. Next thing you know I just kept going further and further down the rabbit hole.
Ok, now that is out of the way. Here is where I currently stand…..
Short Block and head work was done by a reputable shop in Middletown Ohio.
• Had it decked. There was actually some warpage near the center of the deck so they ended up having to take off essentially 10 thousandths.
• New Cam bearings installed as well.
• After inspecting cylinders it was determined that some additional work was required. Since this work was being done anyway I ended up going with Wiseco domed top pistons (PTS523A903).
• As far as the heads are concerned, they were also decked and got valve job along with porting. I also passed off the installation of the new BTR springs to them as well.
All in all I was very pleased with the quality of work…
Now for the parts…. Currently have the following on the shelf…
• All new sensors
• Bunch of new OEM hoses, seals, gaskets, hardware & parts
• Crap ton of ARP hardware
• Cometic Head Gaskets (H1294)
• Percy Mainfold/Header Gaskets (66032)
• BTR Stage III Kit
o LS1/2 Stage III Cam 231/242 .617"/.592" 112+2
o .660" Lift Platinum Dual Springs (w/ steel retainers)
o 7.4" Chromoly One Piece Pushrods, 5/16" diameter, .080"
• New OEM Waterpump (mine was going out)
• Taylor 10.4mm ThunderVolt 50 High Performance Spark Plug Wire Set (98003)
• LS7 Lifters (12499225)
• Straub Bushing Trunnion Upgrade Kit (346-1371)
• Lingenfelter 160 Deg T-Stat (LPE-L310015204)
• Pacesetter Armor Coated Long Tube Headers
• Melling Oil Pump (10296)
• New Timing Chain and Gears
• DEI Protect-A-Boot Titanium
• ATI Super Damper
• Tick Remote Clutch Bleeder & Slave Line
• LS7 Clutch, Slave Cylinder & FlyWheel
• CS Bronze Shifter Linkage Connector & Delrin Support Rod Bushings
• CS Bronze & Stainless Shifter Linkage Bushings
• Hurst Shifter
• Bunch of Revshift & CS bushings
I’ll be working on other parts of the drivetrain and chassis as well but I’ll get to that a little later.
Also, save the money on the roller master timing set. Stock gears are fine, just get a better chain if you want to spend $ on one. If not the ls2 timing chain is more than fine.
Look into a Mighty Mouse catch can too. Very nice piece.
+1 on that. Get better lifters. Johnson 2110 are very nice.
So I appreciate the input on this topic. I was surprised by this response since I actually went with the LS7 lifters based on reading numerous threads on this forum... Seemed the consensus was that the LS7 lifters was the way to go...
So I appreciate the input on this topic. I was surprised by this response since I actually went with the LS7 lifters based on reading numerous threads on this forum... Seemed the consensus was that the LS7 lifters was the way to go...
I'll check these out. Thanks again.
The ls7, which are really just GM standard OE replacement lifter, are ok for stock or mild applications, less than .595 lift in my opinion. There are plenty of guys running them as a go to lifter, but there are much better lifters out there. The price of the ls7 lifter is cheap, which I why a lot go with them honestly.
The Johnson lifters have better internals, are slow leak down and can handle extra lift and spring pressures without issue. They are a performance lifter vs OE. I like the Johnson lifters, others like Morel lifters.
Currently installing the LUK LS7 Clutch and was starting to look at prices on a replacement OEM Starter (mine was toast). It occurred to me that there might be a clearance issue since I'm going with long tubes.
Is there a clearance issue related to long tubes around the OEM starter?
I believe it was more of a heat issue than it was a clearance issue. I see you have Pacesetters, which I don't have personal experience with, but I haven't seen any complaints (and I keep a pretty close eye on the forum). Heat shielding the starter is the best thing you can do, short of wrapping the adjacent pipes which I may not suggest with a mild steel header.
I believe it was more of a heat issue than it was a clearance issue. I see you have Pacesetters, which I don't have personal experience with, but I haven't seen any complaints (and I keep a pretty close eye on the forum). Heat shielding the starter is the best thing you can do, short of wrapping the adjacent pipes which I may not suggest with a mild steel header.
Ok so I keep running into potential issues. Not surprising but still confusing. Trying to do my own DD and keep this moving without posing a ton of questions. Last night I believe I spent a couple hrs searching the forums on information surrounding the Pilot Bearing installation direction. I got confused because I found a removal instruction that said I had to pay close attention to the orientation when removing the old bearing (noting a groove on the outer edge). Well in the pic it was the exact opposite mine was when I pulled it out. Left me scratching my head for hrs.
Anyway I've ran into my next confusing moment. While I have the transmission out I was going to replace upgrade to the CS Bronze Shifter Linkage and their Delrin bushings. While removing the linkage from the transmission I noted that on the passenger side there was a metal insert inside the stock bushings but this wasn't present on the drivers side. To make sure something bad wrong I did some searching and found multiple pics of the linkage with the metal sleeves on both sides.
All that to ask..... Can I get some confirmation that I am missing this metal sleeve on the drivers side or are the pics I'm seeing aftermarket upgrades the shifter linkage.
agreed. I thought the absence on one side might be intentional to keep linkage from binding. I know that was a reach but I just wanted to make sure before proceeding
Well this has not been a good weekend for the build. Nothing has gone right. Check out pics of the pressure plate right out of the box. All of these gouges are about two fingernails deep
02-10-2017, 08:47 PM
2005 CTS V Build 
