C-rider

I sold my TBSS and traded my T/A last week for an 05 CTS-V. The engine only has about 2k miles after a recent rebuild in which it was freshened up along with forged pistons, Lunati cam, and a long list of other mods. It has 120k miles on the body. Overall I'm very pleased with the car, but I had an issue a couple days after driving it. The previous owner told me the clutch would stick when cold, which turned out to be true, but it got better after driving about 5 - 10 miles. After parking on my shop slab I noticed a minor leak coming from the bell housing which appears to be clutch fluid. After I took it to town the other day, I parked it, then got in it to move it and it would not crank. Here is where I need help diagnosing my issue, I'm baffled, as I am new to this car and the T56. I have had a few issues with the clucth sticking to the floor but once I pull it up its good for awile. I tried bleeding the lines multiple times, once it warms up it does work better, but now the pedal will not go all the way down unless I break the pressure on the remote bleeder. Then it will go to the floor, pushing fluid out. When I tighten the nut back up, then pull the pedal up and push it back down and it still stops halfway. Is the slave cylinder bad? It will not allow me to push the clucth to the floor to even crank it unless I break the line loose and let out all the pressure. The car already had the LS7 clutch, but I ordered a new clutch and pressure plate, slave and throwout bearing, along with the Katech spacer I supposedly need. Am I on the right track here? Its killing me having this new ride and not being able to drive it!

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

The not cranking until you break pressure has to do with engagement of the switch on the clutch pedal that allows you to crank it.

The pedal hanging halfway down is not right (duh) sounds like the spline is rusty.

isis

iTrader: (1)

Down the rabbit hole you go. Good luck. I hope it's simple. YMMV by a lot. The slave spacer is only for the LS6 slave on LS7 clutch. You could just do the LS7 slave too. People have had problems with all of them and people have had them work just fine.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

Between the fluid leaking from the bellhousing and the pedal sticking halfway down, it definitely sounds like the slave is going.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

New master, new slave, new CPS...boom, done. Nothing like a shotgun blast at close range!

C-rider

I hope AAIIIC has it right on this one! I would love to go ahead and replace the master with one of the upgraded ones but unfortunately I'm a little short on funds until payday after ordering all these other parts. If this doesn't solve my issue, the master will be replaced next. I'm hoping since there is a visible leak at the bell housing, the slave is the issue. I also just ordered another clutch sensor position switch too as recommended. Sometimes it was a pain to crank unless you pressed really hard on the clutch, I bet the sensor played a part in that.

Thank you all for the quick replies and helpful advice. Me and a couple friends are planning on pulling the trans this coming weekend after all the parts arrive. We haven't ever done this specific job but hopefully we can put our heads together and get it done. I just wish we had a lift! Hopefully it won't be too big of a pain. Any tips or tricks to make things go smooth? We will be replacing the slave and throwout bearings, clutches and pressure plate, and the clutch position sensor.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...twin-disc.html

my_99Z

iTrader: (4)

Invest in a mighty vac for bleeding the slave. There are videos all over youtube about how to vacuum down the slave through the reservoir. It worked like a charm for me, and I didn't have to fight with the bleeder valve at all

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

Dropping a trans without a lift is always a pain. Best of luck to you. It's a bitch to get back in. At least get a cheap trans jack from harbor freight.

Choppy_Idle

^^^ This 100% agree !!!

Put my trans back in similar way, had cavern in garage, but was the same bitch to get it matched that last few millimeters together...

Greets
Ron

C-rider

I'm going to pick up a trans jack today when I grab my slave and throwout bearing. We got it out yesterday, it was a pain, but we got it. Now I'm just waiting for parts to arrive, hopefully it'll be back on the road by the weekend. My next question, where exactly does the Katech spacer go? I read that I'd need it to run a stock slave with the LS7 clutches.

BudRacing

iTrader: (3)

For an "LS7" clutch, you'll need to remove the stock slave and install the Katech spacer between the slave and trans. With 120k on the stock clutch, I'd suggest buying and installing a C6 corvette slave instead of the spacer. They're the correct length to begin with and don't require a spacer. It's not something you'll want to have to replace anytime soon. The $250 is well worth the price considering all the work it is to drop/reinstall the trans and bleed everything over again.

C-rider

I'm replacing the clutch and pressure plate as well. I've already got the stick slave and spacer. I wish I would've known that before I ordered and I would have went that route. Hopefully this setup will work without any issues.