KillerVee

Anyone ever rebuild the rear cv joint on the factory driveshaft. I saw Dorman makes a factory replacement, part number 936-042 but was unable to find any rebuild kits. They do make them for other gm vehicles, but wasn't sure which, if any. Figured I'd check to see if anyone has done this before. My v is relatively stock and just daily driven so I don't need anything heavy duty like the single piece or carbon ones. The center bearing is still good, the only issue is the grease seal failed at the rear and now the bearings chatter.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

We have service hundreds of the rear CV joints on these driveshafts. No parts are available specifically for the V. The volkswagon Touareg and porchse cayenne shafts are similar design but not interchangeable. Basically. Regrease it, and figure out which seal is bad. The "front" seal in the rear CV joint which goes between the joint and the boot/cap is metal with a rubber coating.. spray it with plastidip and regrease the joint. If it's the rear seal between joint and inspection plate, OEM is cork.. we've remade these with single layer cardboard like from a 12pack of soda. Easy peasy. ONLY ever use high pressure moly CV grease.

KillerVee

I picked up some moly grease, shown here https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-SL314...Wt-Oz/22578996
will this suffice? Or do you have some recommendations

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

I mean that meets the "moly" and "high pressure" that's required for CV joints.. if it's really thick that might not work to your advantage. Specific CV joint grease is more fluid than typical finger in the jar grease. All you can do is try it.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

If you already took it/them apart, you are 99% fucked. Each ball must go back in the cage right and the cage must go back together correctly. It must go back together EXACTLY as it came apart, including indexing the shaft, or you must get a new one. When I say exact...I mean exact. If you didn't mark each piece, each ball...**** it all and get a new shaft. Follow those directions - and voodoo's- and voodoo is your best option. Dorman is probably your best second option, or your first if the damn thing is already apart. Third are the ones you mentioned.

KillerVee

That's 1 of the reasons I was asking as far as rebuilds go. Replacing all the internals requires less marking up and matching. That being said, I haven't done anything other than crawl under the car and inspect where the clicking was coming from. I will definitely go the route voodoo mentioned. The 1 thing I am curious on though is if i am able to just dropping the back half to regrease and replace the end cap seal without having to remove the whole driveshaft and exhaust.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

You're limited to using used parts..either your own in the joint or a whole other used rear joint.

You have to drop the exhaust to get sufficient access.. you do not need to remove the driveshaft to do this work. If replacing the seal between the cap/boot and CV joint. The front seal, then you need to index the joint to the center spline shaft so you return orientation, then remove the joint to gain access to the seal. That seal usually doesn't go bad, but rather the bolts loosen up and grease comes out.

KillerVee

Well this is exactly my predicament. All 6 bolts weren't even finger tight. None missing thankfully. So if I'm understanding correctly, I can regrease, tighten the bolts back up and be on my merry way

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

That SHOULD be the case. Get a buddy or a furniture dolly to help drop the exhaust. Otherwise, good to go. Be careful with that back joint/seal, should be a piece of cake.

voodoochikin04

iTrader: (3)

Yea don't even bother trying to clean the old grease out. Just pump some new in and lock that sucker down.

361 CTS-V

better to bump an old thread than make a new one, thanks so much. i'm only on my first week of CTSV1 ownership and my "recently replaced" driveshaft bolts came loose in the middle, one fell out, I installed longer bolts this time to be certain of full thread engagement and then get on here to find out that all the grease i saw was from my new driveshaft. I haven't driven on it yet, although I'm not too sure how long the bolts have been loose for - for how long it was run dry-ish. just that as soon as one of the bolts fell of and the strap washer thing was smacking the exhaust, stopped driving it til I fixed it today.

sucks to do everything again, but might as well ask, what are the torque specs supposed to be and, what else do I need to look out for when taking apart that joint? also do I need to take it all the way off the car??

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

The torque spec for the CV to pinion flange is 44ft lbs torqued in a star pattern.