Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Suspension maintenance

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Old 02-19-2018, 04:27 PM
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Default Suspension maintenance

I picked up an 05 with 120K on it. I have yet to drive it other than the test drive due to a much needed clutch replacement. How many miles before I need to worry about struts, shocks and ball joints on this car? They look fine and the car rode firm when I test drove it. I used a pry bar on the ball joints and they seem solid.
Old 02-19-2018, 07:51 PM
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To a daily driver (aka me), it's all about tire wear. If the tires are wearing reasonably well, I don't worry about it.

it also depends on what you're used to. I grew up driving junk and when people get on here report that the car is starting to act a little vague or something, I have a hard time getting there. This car worn slap out still drives better than 99% of the cars I've owned and the last v I had had 265k on it...drove great to me but I bet you coulda got in there and found something worn...but I'm not pushing it crazy hard either

when the front shocks go, the front end will clunk but the sway bar bushings will do the same thing. The factory replacements have worked well for me.

but unfortunately, the ball joints and control arms aren't really serviceable with factory parts. Yes somebody has done ball joint replacements i believe but they were sourcing parts that werent listed for our application iirc. And you can replace bushings but urethane is your only choice there and I hear as many complaints about those as I do praise so daily driver guy (me) isn't going there.

there are some cheap aftermarket control arm replacements but I haven't heard how they hold up. I have a set of low mileage OEM takeoffs I found at LKQ so if I ever need them I'll go in that direction..
Old 02-19-2018, 11:37 PM
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I replaced all the ball joints and connecting links with Moog from Rock Auto .Haven't had an issue since.

I did the kw Var 3 suspension in place of a new factory suspension mostly due to cost of shipping and dealer pricing here locally to me. It was honestly about the same cost at the end of the day.

If your suspension is good, keep running it until it isn't.

I do have a full poly suspension setup, and I wouldn't have it any other way after experiencing it both ways.

-Byron
Old 02-20-2018, 06:28 AM
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All depends on how well the car was treated. There is no set time frame on replacing suspension components, just replace them as they wear out. LS1247 hit the nail on the head good indication of worn suspension components would be irregular tire wear f.e. cupping, feathering, excessive inside or outside tire wear pulling to one side hard when brakes are applied. Best thing to do with a car around your mileage is too just shake the front end down every time you change the oil just to physically know the condition of the suspension as the vehicle continues to add mileage.
Old 02-20-2018, 07:39 AM
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Thank you for the replies. The car feels solid and the tires looked to be evenly worn. I am used to driving G bodies and S series trucks so I normally would have expected to rebuild the suspension by 100K. I am getting the wheels refinished as the PO must have hit every curb he passed. I am also getting a set of Indy 500 tires and will watch to see how they wear. It's killing me to have had this car for a month and not have driven it. I hope to have it back together by early March.
Old 02-21-2018, 02:13 PM
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Beware of poly squeaks in control arms. Most other places it's fine, but in control arms it's tough to make sure they're squeak free.

If you replace the control arms as a whole, don't use the new bolts that come with the arms. Reuse the factory bolts and make sure they're torqued well. You can also opt to upgrade the nuts to nylon locking washers to make sure they stay put. This will ensure your alignment stays where it should.

Lower ball joints can be replaced up front, but that's the only serviceable one as far as I know. It's the most likely to fail, though.
Old 02-21-2018, 06:07 PM
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All the ball joints are serviceable if you have an arbor press.

Poly bushings are easy to keep squeak free if you use sufficient hardness and a lube with a good ASTM D1264 water washout test score. I had to lube my 75D poly bushings once about a month after installation and never since. It's probably been two years.
Old 03-08-2018, 01:23 AM
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On top of tire wear, I'm pretty sure a bad RF strut expedited wheel bearing failure on mine. Replaced the RF bearing when I got the car at ~85k, then at ~95k the bearing was bad again. When I went to pull it I was a drip and fluid trail coming from the strut. Replaced both fronts at that point. Pulled the rears at 98k when I did the bushings and both rears were still fine.

With the mileage on your car, I'd check all the rubbers and replace any wearable items if they look old or show signs of cracks. Check the propshaft bearing as well. Mine was fully sacked out and in desperate need of replacing. If you do the poly bushings, there's a control arm thread here somewhere we've discussed the squeak in length. I posted pics of the pivots I modified to accept more grease, mine have been silent since then. The Prothane Superlube alone didn't do the trick.
Old 03-08-2018, 09:07 AM
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TST brah

I will be diving back into the car next week while I am on vacation. I plan to knock out the Kooks project as well as the rear end brace kit I pick up. The new rotors and pads showed this week as well. I have only driven it a few times due to the crummy weather we are seeing in Ohio.




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