headers and cai for a ls6 cts w/ corsa catback
04-12-2018, 07:22 PM
#1
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headers and cai for a ls6 cts w/ corsa catback Hey. Ive recently purchased a 2005 cts v. It’s already has a corsa catback exhaust and a short throw shifter from the previous owner.
Ive been interested in gaining some extra power and tone. I’ve been looking into some headers and possibly a cai along with a dyno tune.
I also would plan on getting more into the engine later as money allows.
My questions are,
are kook headers the only headers that will connect with a corsa catback exhaust? I think I read this somewhere. Also what size would you recommend? Is a wrap or coating a must?
i can get a volant cai setup for about $230 is that worth it?
anyone selling headers????
I would be doing everything myself of corse.
Ive been interested in gaining some extra power and tone. I’ve been looking into some headers and possibly a cai along with a dyno tune.
I also would plan on getting more into the engine later as money allows.
My questions are,
are kook headers the only headers that will connect with a corsa catback exhaust? I think I read this somewhere. Also what size would you recommend? Is a wrap or coating a must?
i can get a volant cai setup for about $230 is that worth it?
anyone selling headers????
I would be doing everything myself of corse.
Last edited by Cckq76; 04-12-2018 at 07:38 PM.
04-13-2018, 10:45 AM
#3
Kooks are the best and are the only true bolt on to a factory or Corsa. If you are willing to spend the time, there are cheaper routes. OBX are a good option. Do get stainless, do NOT wrap unless it is a garage queen/no rain car. Coating is nice and helpful but not necessary. Get the 1 7/8, there is no downside since you are getting it tuned. OBX are a solid choice, here is another, when they are in stock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292154042903
04-13-2018, 07:08 PM
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did you tune your v after? Do you know your rwhp and torque numbers?
04-13-2018, 08:03 PM
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another, when they are in stock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292154042903
Didn't have to dent for steering. I just removed steering linkage during install. I am extremely pleased with these headers for the <250 I have in them. Use your original gasket, not the cheap **** one they send.
I have no cats so I had to tune rear o2 out to get rid of check engine. A real tune will happen soon to tweak airflow and fuel, but it runs close enough to not cause any damage. I think once I do performance should increase. You may have a different experience. It sounds great though
Last edited by dmistretta; 04-13-2018 at 08:10 PM.
04-15-2018, 03:33 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Cckq76
did you tune your v after? Do you know your rwhp and torque numbers?
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04-19-2018, 05:30 PM
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I think I’m leaning towards the kooks. I just think that sound is real nice. I want a mean but classy caddy.
Can someone one please explain to me why I would go to 1 7/8 over 1 3/4?
Also so what will he coating do for me?
Can someone one please explain to me why I would go to 1 7/8 over 1 3/4?
Also so what will he coating do for me?
04-20-2018, 10:00 AM
#12
There will be no discernable difference in sound between brands of longtube headers. However, any long tube header is going to sound more aggressive, but in a mild way. This is even true through stock mufflers.
1 7/8" primaries have issues with the steering shaft that require denting 1 or two primaries which will damage the coating if that's been done already. If I were to do it again, I'd go 1 3/4" and avoid that. Power difference is negligible. Fit is more important, IMO.
Ceramic coatings help the pipes retain heat and A. use that pent up energy to maintain exhaust velocity and B. Not add excess heat to your engine bay which affect intake temps and make plastics brittle faster.
1 7/8" primaries have issues with the steering shaft that require denting 1 or two primaries which will damage the coating if that's been done already. If I were to do it again, I'd go 1 3/4" and avoid that. Power difference is negligible. Fit is more important, IMO.
Ceramic coatings help the pipes retain heat and A. use that pent up energy to maintain exhaust velocity and B. Not add excess heat to your engine bay which affect intake temps and make plastics brittle faster.
04-24-2018, 09:12 PM
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Went with the kooks Thanks for all your help. I got the kooks headers non coated 1 7/8. I’m hoping to not have too hard a time installing past the steering linkage. I also got the volant cai with some new plugs and wires too. Tax refund is gone but kinda free money imo. Now the hard part... waiting. Prolly change my fluids in the mean time. 
Will most likely get a 160 Or 180 Tstat as well since I’m getting a tune.
Any other things to get before a tune? I don’t think I can afford to do a cam yet as there’s a bunch of other upgrades Id have to do at the same time correct.
Will most likely get a 160 Or 180 Tstat as well since I’m getting a tune.
Any other things to get before a tune? I don’t think I can afford to do a cam yet as there’s a bunch of other upgrades Id have to do at the same time correct.
04-25-2018, 10:04 PM
#16
Figure out your goals, requirements, and budget for the project...then decide. Kooks and intake and TB is a perfectly reasonable place to stop. Get 375-380 at the tire with basically no downside. Yes, you can get 430-450 with a cam and 460-480 with heads, but those routes are more money and far more upkeep if you drive normal miles annually. Figure out what you will do with the car, what you need/can afford, and make the mods match that.
04-26-2018, 06:46 AM
#17
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On a LS2 mayyyyyyyybe, Tick says on their webside SNS2 a gain of 40-50rwhp in a 'well optimized setup', what does that means, which parts are here included, can someone explain me pls?
All dyno sheets here i see in the dyno section gets with full house 450hp on a LS2, so i think 480 is more on the utopic side, only by h/c/i, sry bro...
Greetz
Ron
All dyno sheets here i see in the dyno section gets with full house 450hp on a LS2, so i think 480 is more on the utopic side, only by h/c/i, sry bro...
Greetz
Ron
04-26-2018, 11:21 AM
#18
Depends on who your builder and tuner is, cam selection, and how much ($$) you sweat the details. You'll have some driveline HP leakage compared to the C5 but it's been done.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ile-zo6-4.html
Here is cam only, stock heads and intake...it's do-able.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...p-415rwtq.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ile-zo6-4.html
Here is cam only, stock heads and intake...it's do-able.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...p-415rwtq.html
04-26-2018, 02:44 PM
#19
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Yes, what Tony did, is out of discussion, for sure, but he also said:
"Alot of folks throw big numbers around but if you really look around and see what most guys with heads / cam 346's are truly making, the majority of these builds are in the 425 - 450 RWHP range regardless of how aggressive a cam we are discussing. Our goals with this build was to achieve more with less cam and build/design a combination with a wide flat torque curve....something still responsive and fun to drive on the street, yet capable of still laying the smack down up top to the tune of 475 RWHP or so on a dyno that's not stingy and not optimistic either (aka real world numbers that results at the track would back up)."
So i think, numbers depends on dyno, tune and installed parts, as u said too, those high peaks needs lotsa monnies and not everyone is willing to spend 6 grand+ on a h/c/i upgrade...
Greetz
Ron
"Alot of folks throw big numbers around but if you really look around and see what most guys with heads / cam 346's are truly making, the majority of these builds are in the 425 - 450 RWHP range regardless of how aggressive a cam we are discussing. Our goals with this build was to achieve more with less cam and build/design a combination with a wide flat torque curve....something still responsive and fun to drive on the street, yet capable of still laying the smack down up top to the tune of 475 RWHP or so on a dyno that's not stingy and not optimistic either (aka real world numbers that results at the track would back up)."
So i think, numbers depends on dyno, tune and installed parts, as u said too, those high peaks needs lotsa monnies and not everyone is willing to spend 6 grand+ on a h/c/i upgrade...
Greetz
Ron
04-26-2018, 05:57 PM
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I just want to go fast in streets 😂
i would like to get 383 stroker kit if I’m gonna go in the engine then work up get cam and heads. No fi though because the cts v doesn’t have the hood clearance and I enjoy the sleeper aspect.
but if I’m gonna do the work for a 383 I might as well start with a bigger block and build it on the side then drop it in. No brainer there.
But if I build a engine I might as well just restore an old Camaro or Chevelle and drop it there so I can add fi and keep the ls6 in the v plus not have to go 8.8 rear ect. Plus i could say I built an entire car.
So that’s pretty much my plan then after all that who knows what the v will get.
Do I just sound crazy because this is what my brain thinks!
i would like to get 383 stroker kit if I’m gonna go in the engine then work up get cam and heads. No fi though because the cts v doesn’t have the hood clearance and I enjoy the sleeper aspect.
but if I’m gonna do the work for a 383 I might as well start with a bigger block and build it on the side then drop it in. No brainer there.
But if I build a engine I might as well just restore an old Camaro or Chevelle and drop it there so I can add fi and keep the ls6 in the v plus not have to go 8.8 rear ect. Plus i could say I built an entire car.
So that’s pretty much my plan then after all that who knows what the v will get.
Do I just sound crazy because this is what my brain thinks!