redline.inc

I was wondering websites sell cross drilled or slotted rotors. I feel mine fade under hard braking, and I know it is because of them over heating. Thanks in advance guys.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

There is a GP in progress right now:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/western-members/932722-group-buy-rotors.html

thebigjimsho

How do you know it's not the pads? Or maybe your fluid? The stock rotors can take a TON of abuse. I got 50k miles on my stock rotors with a handful of autocrosses and track days and the fronts finally started warping a bit when using Hawk Blues at the track...

redline.inc

I'm not getting when flying through the twistes, when I'm on and off them. I'm getting them when I do high speed runs and then need to slow down. It is the same fade I was getting in the SS. Changed to a set of slotted rotors, and it went away. I was just heating them up all at once and they were over heating you could say.

thebigjimsho

I had almost 40k miles on my original rotors as I headed to VIR for a 2 day track event. I can't tel you how many times I went from 140 to 20 that weekend. It was so hard on my brakes, my fluid boiled. You want to talk about fade? How about going into a turn doing over 100 and you have 30% braking power.

But that was because I was running Hawk Blues and Hoosier slicks on a 95 degree day. And my rotors were fine. I replaced the fluid with Motul 600 and proceeded to run another 3 track days and 3 autocrosses over the rest of the season.

So how many miles do you have on your V? Because I'm willing to bet your pads need to be replaced or you have air in your system. I doubt highly those rotors are the problem...

trukk

iTrader: (1)

I DEFINATELY agree with Jim here. The OEM rotors can take a ****-ton of abuse.

I would consider performing brake upgrdes in the following order, untill you have the level of performance you desire (I'm sure you've done some of this already):

1) Swap to high temp fluid (i.e. Motul600)
2) Match Pads to Tires. I had been running Hawk HP+'s at the track paired with Falken Azenis RT-615 tires. With this combo, the pads out performed the tires, and on highspeed decelerations (like going into turn 1 @ VIR 135ish down to 60ish), the tires were getting way over heated causing issues in the accompanying turn. I'm now running Hoosiers, and am going to try out some CarboTech XP10's with them.
3) Add Ti shims between pads and calipers, to prevent heat transfer to fluid
4) Add braided brake lines
5) fab up some brake duct cooling
6) upgrade rotors
7) upgrade calipers

-Chris

CTS-Veo

I dont track my car at all but I would like to know more about them if I decide too at some point

1- are the Hawk HPS's better than the stock pads for normal street tires?
2- were can you get brake shims? (i've heard of them, just never seen them)
3- do you have a picture of what brake ducts look like? (my family owns a machine shop, I'm sure I could make something)
4- why are braided lines better? Do they help keep the fluid cooler?

This is probably pretty basic stuff, I'm just getting into all of this...

redline.inc

I am going to switch to Motul6000, and see how it goes. I'm a newbie on the hole CTS-V. I just picked it up in Feb. and been learning something new each day. Thanks for all the input guys, and keep it coming. The more I read about all of your cars, means the more I know on mine.

trukk

iTrader: (1)

1) HPS are not as good as stock, in terms of stopping/fade resistance. They are WAY better in terms of brake dust, which is why a lot of people get them. HP+ are better than stock, dust a tad less, but tend to squeek a bit more than stock.
2) I'll have to go back and look where I ordered mine from. Basically, you just need to get them for our caliper/pad type, which is shared by the last gen EVO's/ STI's, SRT10 Vipers, Volvo TypeR's...etc.
EDIT: http://www.takspeed.com/shop/index.p...=index&cPath=6
3) Lindsay cadillac is working on a set, but they are not out yet ($400 ish If I recall). No one offers a canned kit, to my knowledge. People that have them, have fabbed something up. Basically, all you need is some hihg temp flxible tubing, and then a mounting plate / air-director (or whatever you want to call it), on the rotor/hub.
4) Braided lines don't flex like the rubber lines do. The flexing robs a bit of the hydrolic force that you are applying through the calipers to the pads. The V's brake lines are pretty good, which is why I ranted this pretty low in the list above. They are fairly cheap though ($150ish), but the right rear can be a PITA to install.

Hope this helps,

Chris