Dorman OE Style Flex Disc Replacement
#21
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When I was prototyping our carrier on my car, I went through this aligment stage. On my particular car the factory mouting of the carrier, creative steel trans mount and revzhift blue motor mounts.....was perfect. Needed no shims. Also if you need to go the opposite way to align it, use washers under the trans crossmember. . Glad you sourced a replacement flex!!
#22
TECH Regular
After contacting SGF Headquarter here in Germany, they told me the same numbers as Matt described: 2153131800009/7LO521403 for the right one, so it´s true that this part is the same as the origin Touareg/Cayenne, bec the #7LO... is a part number from VW, shown below
http://www.ebay.de/itm/7L0521403-ori...-/361247123194
So if everyone is searching for replacement, he can look also to the Touareg coupler, maybe easier to find, perhaps here in Germany!
Price they told me was around €45 +shipping!
I will report after installing them, maybe 2-3 weeks!
Best regards,
Ronald
http://www.ebay.de/itm/7L0521403-ori...-/361247123194
So if everyone is searching for replacement, he can look also to the Touareg coupler, maybe easier to find, perhaps here in Germany!
Price they told me was around €45 +shipping!
I will report after installing them, maybe 2-3 weeks!
Best regards,
Ronald
#23
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I installed my new SGF GAP01-003 flex disk on Sunday. My old one didn't appear to be in terrible shape - I've seen some that were heavily cracked and degraded, whereas mine looked OK. However, the rubber had definitely been worked over the years such that once it was unbolted it was no longer flat / straight:
As I mentioned in a previous post, my new coupler doesn't have the Porsche / VW part numbers on it. However, comparing the old vs new side-by-side, you can see the markings all match up, and the Porsche / VW part numbers have clearly been ground off the new one - you can see the little scuffed rectangles where the part numbers used to be. I've seen that on other plastic and rubber aftermarket parts I've bought over the years. I'm guessing it's a contractual thing, that the automakers don't allow the parts manufacturers to sell OEM parts, so the part manufacturers just delete the OEM part numbers for legal reasons.
As I mentioned in a previous post, my new coupler doesn't have the Porsche / VW part numbers on it. However, comparing the old vs new side-by-side, you can see the markings all match up, and the Porsche / VW part numbers have clearly been ground off the new one - you can see the little scuffed rectangles where the part numbers used to be. I've seen that on other plastic and rubber aftermarket parts I've bought over the years. I'm guessing it's a contractual thing, that the automakers don't allow the parts manufacturers to sell OEM parts, so the part manufacturers just delete the OEM part numbers for legal reasons.
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I learned something new today. I'm going to have to get under my car to check out the flex disk, because I didn't even know to look for this when I did the install a while back.
On the side of the flex disk there are molded-in arrows at each bolt hole. Those arrows must be pointing towards the flange at each bolt hole in order to ensure the flex disk is oriented properly. I just assumed the thing was symmetrical, but according to this diagram from SGF, the structure inside the rubber is actually not symmetrical - it alternates thick and thin between the pairs of bolt holes:
If you install the disk rotate one hole off, the thick and thin structures won't be oriented correctly. This picture borrowed from Bavarian Autosport shows what the arrows look like:
You can see those same arrows on the "bent" old flex disk in my picture a couple posts up. I vaguely recall seeing those on the side of the flex disk, but I didn't realize that they meant anything, so I have no idea if I aligned them properly.
On the side of the flex disk there are molded-in arrows at each bolt hole. Those arrows must be pointing towards the flange at each bolt hole in order to ensure the flex disk is oriented properly. I just assumed the thing was symmetrical, but according to this diagram from SGF, the structure inside the rubber is actually not symmetrical - it alternates thick and thin between the pairs of bolt holes:
If you install the disk rotate one hole off, the thick and thin structures won't be oriented correctly. This picture borrowed from Bavarian Autosport shows what the arrows look like:
You can see those same arrows on the "bent" old flex disk in my picture a couple posts up. I vaguely recall seeing those on the side of the flex disk, but I didn't realize that they meant anything, so I have no idea if I aligned them properly.
#27
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One thing here though.... That picture from Bavarian isn't the same as the cts-v disc... The V disc has extended ferrules that coincide with the flanges for the Driveshaft and trans flange... So there's no need to look for arrows...because the correct orientation is set when you install the disc with those ferrules matched with the flanges already.... It would be obvious if you didn't install it right..
#29
TECH Regular
And if you turn the shown bavarian coupler to 180 degrees, the arrows will still show to the same direction as before, so there must be a label with front or rear side on every side of the coupler or maybe trans/engine side and diff/propshaft side!
I will ask the SGF Headquarter here, if there will be a difference inside the coupler which required a exact mounting direction!
Best regards,
Ronald
I will ask the SGF Headquarter here, if there will be a difference inside the coupler which required a exact mounting direction!
Best regards,
Ronald
#30
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If you flip it 180deg, all of the arrows would be pointing opposite of where they were pointing before (thus they would all be pointing away from the flanges). Rotate it 1 bolt hole and they're all pointing at the flanges again, and it would be aligned correctly. So there's no need for front or back markings, it works either way.
Last edited by AAIIIC; 01-17-2016 at 12:50 PM.
#32
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SGF ebay dealer sells them for $95 shipped located in California.
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201328982731
http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201328982731
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#35
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Yeah, I distorted mine putting the oil pump in the car. I used an engine hoist to lift the engine as far as it would go to make getting the oil pump pickup installed that much easier not even thinking what I was doing to the flex disc. It was smooth before the oil pump and vibby after...great.
While I had the car up on stands, I thought I'd check the alignment again. AAIIIC, you had mentioned that Voodoo suggested bolting the driveshaft directly to the tailshaft to get an idea of how well it was aligned and when I did, I saw just how out of align this thing really is.
I had used the revshift technique before and thought that the shaft favored the passenger side of the car and needed to be shimmed down 1/2 inch or so and this confirmed it although it was worse than I expected. The bearing touches the passenger side of the transmission tunnel and you can see how far off the bolt hole the bearing is when the shaft is bolted straight to the tailshaft of the transmission.
Although the transmission crossmember is slotted, the CS mounts aren't going to give much at all so the only choice I had to accommodate this was to slot the bearing mount holes and stack washers. If I had the car on a lift, I would have loosened the engine cradle and tried to align it but working of stands, theres no way I could generate enough *** to do that.
Its become clear to me that these cars aren't setup that well from the factory. The hydraulic mounts can pretty much make up for this but the poly mounts aren't so forgiving. No wonder these things vibrate. If I ever get access to a lift, I'll attempt to align the cradles and then have the front end aligned again because I know it can be better than this with a little effort.
The car is parked until the new flex disc arrives so I'll post results then...
While I had the car up on stands, I thought I'd check the alignment again. AAIIIC, you had mentioned that Voodoo suggested bolting the driveshaft directly to the tailshaft to get an idea of how well it was aligned and when I did, I saw just how out of align this thing really is.
I had used the revshift technique before and thought that the shaft favored the passenger side of the car and needed to be shimmed down 1/2 inch or so and this confirmed it although it was worse than I expected. The bearing touches the passenger side of the transmission tunnel and you can see how far off the bolt hole the bearing is when the shaft is bolted straight to the tailshaft of the transmission.
Although the transmission crossmember is slotted, the CS mounts aren't going to give much at all so the only choice I had to accommodate this was to slot the bearing mount holes and stack washers. If I had the car on a lift, I would have loosened the engine cradle and tried to align it but working of stands, theres no way I could generate enough *** to do that.
Its become clear to me that these cars aren't setup that well from the factory. The hydraulic mounts can pretty much make up for this but the poly mounts aren't so forgiving. No wonder these things vibrate. If I ever get access to a lift, I'll attempt to align the cradles and then have the front end aligned again because I know it can be better than this with a little effort.
The car is parked until the new flex disc arrives so I'll post results then...
#37
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We're only talking about maybe an 1/8" (or less) at the front cradle to get to 1/2" of misalignement this far back in the car. Minor tweaking on the front cradle should take care of this but again, the stock motor mounts had enough give in them to accommodate for this.
#38
Driveshaft coupler
Hey guys......found the part @ https://driveshaftpro.com/# talk to bryan @ driveshaftpro 714/462-1199, its an exact fit
#39
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Hey guys......found the part @ https://driveshaftpro.com/# talk to bryan @ driveshaftpro 714/462-1199, its an exact fit