Polynikes

iTrader: (9)

First off, the point of this build is to have a reliable and peppy daily driver with good street manners. The build is a 79 Malibu with a 5.3, 700r4, and 8.8Ford rear w/3:55's. I'm leaning towards going with the Performer intake with an LS6 cam, and I was wondering if you guys could suggest a good carb and stall range that would go good with the combo?

I just want something that is good for the street, but then again something that can get down every now and then. I know it might be wishful thinking for having the best of both worlds, but hopefully its attainable.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I have a 26-2800 stall in my 700R from Ebay and it is great, that with the LS6 cam and the gears you have would work great, but with ANY stall, i would use a Vic Jr since you start stalling into the power band where you are skipping up to H and not really in a LOW RPM to worry about taking advantage of TQ that low.

A 750 tuned right is a great option, but a 650 would do just as well.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Most of the back to back dyno tests I have seen show the Performer RPM producing more torque than the Victor Jr. through 5,000 RPM. Being that he has the 5.3, I would suspect that extra torque might come in very handy.

Another thing I can tell you from personal experience is that the low RPM and street drivability is much smoother and responsive on a dual plane intake like the Performer RPM.

Polynikes

iTrader: (9)

Well...after doing some searching and reading about those who have used an LS6 cam I'm kind of second guessing using it after all. It seems that they are soft on the low end, and they are kind of PITA to use with a carbed engine. Any truth to this?

I'm just hesitant to pull the trigger on this cam and would like some other recommendations. Goal here is good low to mid range power as this is going to be a DD and won't really be spinning high, and I would like to keep the stall under 3k since its going to be in traffic as well. I don't really care about a choppy idle as I would prefer a more 'stealth' cam. Are there any off the shelf grinds that would be good? Or would it even be worth my time to get one custom spec'd?

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I think a hot cam would work great honestly if you dont mind a little stall speed. That with a RPM i guess. I am against a dual plane intake, its just me, but everything i have pulls to 7000.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Based on your goals, this is absolutely the cam I would choose:
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1086&sb=2
Here is a hotrod magazine article where they dyno test the cam and talk about it:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...m_hi_lift.html

According to the article, this thing will idle smooth and make a substantial performance improvement while still idling "stealthy" and maintaining maximum low end torque and mid range power.

rojs234

iTrader: (5)

When you consider the size of the engine, the transmission you've chosen and the gears, I would take *speedtigger's * advice and run the RPM dual plane. Here's why....the dual plane will make anywhere from 8-20 Ft. lbs. more torque from idle to around 5500-6000 in some cases. TORQUE! is what moves cars! The suggested stall speed of 2800-3000 is great, but *ZONES89RS* thinks a single plane would take over from there. Not so. At the flash speed of 3000 RPM the dual plane would be making probably 15 more FT lbs. Why would you want to give that up? With the wide gear ratios of the 700R4, the engine RPM will drop a bunch between gears. If you shift at 6000 RPM, it will drop back into the low 4000 RPM range in the next gear. The dual plane would be right in the sweet spot with probably 20 more FT lbs. I run a 200-4R which has much closer drops between gears and according to my logs, if I shift at 6500-6600, even it will drop back to 4700-4800 RPM. By the way, I think the 200-4R is a better choice. It has closer gear ratios and a higher overdrive ratio. My .02 cents worth

Polynikes

iTrader: (9)

Good one, speedtigger! It appears to be exactly what I was looking for, and I think I'm going to throw it in and go. I'm assuming LS6 springs will work okay? Also, in the article you hotlinked it said they used 7.350 pushrods, and I was wondering why they did that? Just wanting to know if 7.4's would be okay too?

Alba Gu Brath

iTrader: (4)

FWIW, just about every catalog cam for the LSx series engines are designed around a FI engine. It's open to debate , but the consensus seems to be that the carb versions of the LS series need a different cam profile the that of it's injected counterpart. as evidenced by the existence of this new sub-category within this forum, the swap is becoming increasingly popular. Why not just have a custom cam spec'd out specific to the needs of a carbed LSx , and your specific goals with a little room to grow? There are several reputable individuals and companies ( some may even be sponsors to the site and/or sub-forum) that could do this at a cost identical to a generic "off-the-shelf" cam. The same would apply to converters IMHO. Like all of our combos for those that have chosen to span the gap between technology and a controlled fuel leak, yours is a unique combo. Order up cams, and converters as if you were ordering up dinner at your favorite steak house...how ambiguous would " I'll have the steak" be... I believe that you'll be more pleased with the results in the long run. Just my .02... flame away

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Most, if not all of the aftermaket cams have a smaller base circle than the factory cams. So, you are required to buy longer pushrods to maintain the correct lifter preload and rocker arm geometry.

Alba Gu Brath

iTrader: (4)

In a non adjustable valve-train like the factory LS series, push-rod length has no bearing on geometry because the pivot point of the of the rocker is in a fixed position and is only adjustable using shims or milling the stands if needed ...you are dead right on the preload and valve-train noise... with my set-up , I went with a custom cam and caddy lifters which are a bit taller in the cup than the regular ls series lifter, which put me right back on a 7.4 push-rod... rumor has it that the lobe profile itself will add to / take away from the "sewing machine noise" . If the valve train is adjustable then you are absolutely on point as to the push-rod selection being critical to geometry... Good advice!

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Good point. Although it is not an issue on a cam only swap on a virgin motor, it is important to note that valve jobs and/or change in rocker arm ratio can affect the rocker arm to valve tip geometry.

Alba Gu Brath

iTrader: (4)

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I have seen some make noise, mine is quiet.