speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Not quite correct. it picked up 3 hundredths is worse air (about 1000 d/a difference). I am guessing it will pan out to be just under a tenth.

Mickey Thompson lists their 275/60/15 as 28".

I still may play with the cam timing a bit to see if there is any in there.

I am on the fence about the converter right now. If I feel "froggy". The next move will either be to send my Circle D back to go from a 2B to a 3B (3500 ish) or NOS Cheater kit.

Your car runs about what mine does, doesn't it? Post up a time slip for comparison. You have a 4k converter?

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Yea, I could see MAYBE a tenth in same conditions, that might be pushing it though I don't know.

I would highly recommend moving to a 26" tire, it will help your 60' out. Might not be worth but a tenth or less but every little bit helps. It would cost less money to do that than what you spent on the changes you just made. You should be able to hook fine on a 26".

Don't have any slips uploaded and can't remember the 330.

1.50-1.53s 60'
7.30-7.32s ET
94.3-94.8 mph

226/228 .588 .588 114
ls6 intake ported TB
hand ported/milled 317s
LTs/ORY/cutout/magnaflow
373s
4000 PTC
LCA with relocation/panhard/tq arm/rear shocks/SFC
Nitrous tune
3480#
2000-2200+DA
26" wore out slicks (they were hard from sitting in the weather)

I was BARELY spinning out of the hole... Wasn't much but it impacted my times without a doubt. 1.4X short times and high 7.1s-bottom 7.2s would have been my times hooking I think, a few others think solid 7.1s.

Things I would have changed to hit 6.9s? Change the exhaust.. Stepped 13/4 to 17/8, better merge or an X pipe, 1 chamber dumped.. It would have flowed much better and cut some weight in the process.
Intake... Chrs1313 ram air/larger diameter FTP lid/85mm MAF.. Probably would have went ahead and picked up a 90 or 92 FAST setup.
A better all motor tune
New 26" radials

I think this would have me at a solid 6.9 in the same DA as before, MAYBE a 6.8 but that is pushing it.

Hope that helps.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I think the 255/60-15s are 26" tall. But, I like the look of the 275s. If somebody around here had a pair to try I would do it. But, I would not buy a pair.

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

I would leave the converter alone if I were you and going to nitrous. Nitrous likes a tight converter to take advantage of the torque. You don't want it to blow through a to loose converter.

26" tall slicks or 255/6015 drag radials will help you get out of the hole a little quicker.

I would look into an electric water pump (Mezierres are very streetable and dependable IMO) maybe even an aluminum driveshaft. Losing some rotating weight would be a great plan some of the GM aluminum rear brake drums would save a little to.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

You need to change the side wall height, doesn't mean you have to go more narrow on the width.

275/50R15 26 X 11.50R15 26.1

That is the ET street radial (the one most run) in a 26" and still being a 275. It is what I will be running as well. IMO best all around tire you can have.

You aren't wanting to go to a larger converter.. This is a small change that would make an impact on the 60' which would make an impact on the et (not mph). This is probably one of the only changes you can make and never notice it while cruising unless HWY @ 70mph.
I would definitely sell yours and buy that tire size before a converter if I were you... Myself, my next thing I touched on the car would be the converter.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

That tire is actually wider than my 275/60-15. I cannot get my pinkie between the frame or the quarter panel and the tire on my car now. I have the width maxed out.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Already have those.

bitterman

I agree with the 275/50r15 if they fit your car ok... take a look at the difference between as 16 and 28" tall tire.

28" tire 1:1 tranz gear and 3.90's
6500 RPM 138.83 MPH
6000 RPM 128.15 MPH
5500 RPM 117.47 MPH
5000 RPM 106.79 MPH
4500 RPM 96.12 MPH
4000 RPM 85.44 MPH

26" tire 1:1 tranz gear and 3.90's
6500 RPM 128.92 MPH
6000 RPM 119.00 MPH
5500 RPM 109.08 MPH
5000 RPM 99.17 MPH
4500 RPM 89.25 MPH
4000 RPM 79.33 MPH

But not sure how much difference it will really have on the ET.

Bruce

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I would say less than a tenth.

AINT SKEERED

iTrader: (2)

A 3600 converter will still work great with nitrous. Especially a 125 or smaller shot.

3000 is very small for a ls motor, yours is running very well for such a tight converter

1970camaroRS

iTrader: (8)

A 255/60 tire is 27" tall...

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Yes. I just figured it would be an extremely easy and some what cheap change in the setup that would still make an impact.

However, knowing that yours are only 27" tall now it won't make even the small increase I was thinking. Knowing about the clearance issues, it isn't an option anyway.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Mickey Thompson says mine are 28". The 255s are 27"
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/s...ETStreetRadial

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Ahhh.. I was going by what 1970 said. I think MT probably knows best.

toxic99

Pretty much a consensus....bigger stall is all you have left to do except strokin and pokin it . And then there is always the spray, but then you wouldnt be able to say you ran a 10 on motor.

bitterman

I took a looked at the hoosier catalog, there are some tires thank might interest you in terms of size to get the rpm up a bit and still get them on your car....

18110 26.0/ 8.0-15 25.1" tread width=8
18115 26.0/ 8.5-15 26.1" tread width=9
18120 26.0/ 9.0-15 26.1" tread width=9
18131 26.0/10.0-15 26.2" tread width=10

Bruce

stinkybutt

I think there could be some more in what you have. On our chassis dyno I've seen 8-12 rwhp after 2-3# in jet change. Think out side the box. If you have an O2 for tuning don't settle for the "perfect" 12.5:1. Some motors just like to be in the mid 13's. On a non power adder and less than 11:1 engine less can be more. Try unhooking the secondary link, tie the rear barrels shut. Just do some 60' stuff.This can help find what the car likes to get moving. Remember if you don't try stuff......you are just "thinking" it's right.
Also maybe you need the power-valve holes made bigger on the front metering block to help for more even A/F on all cyls. at full throttle.
Something else I was thinking that the gas cap is not vented on the older cars. Did you know the vent should be at least 1/2" ?
Just a few ideas to try. It's the simple stuff we overlook.
What was the A/F on the two carbs at full steam?
I would bet its already in your combo.

Aleck

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

We think a lot alike Aleck. Actually my final jetting was done at the track in 1 jet size increments in both directions. 2 passes each setting for verification with 3 different carbs. Yeah, that is a lot of passes LOL. I have already drilled the PVCR on my 750HP carburetor for best cruise and track AFR. I have yet to do that with my new 950HP. My car runs the fastest varying between 12.7 to 13.3 during the pass with most of the time spent in the 13.1:1 area right now.

I have come to the conclusion that the wide band gets you in the ball park, but the track testing tells the story.

I am going to play with the cam timing a bit next. Next time I feel like wrenching, I want to back it up from 109 to 110 and do some more track testing.

Did you ever get your wife's car sorted out?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

A few items to get ready for the 10s:

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

This might be good for a few more hundredths. Now I just need to get tricky to get this 1" HVH under the hood.



The 1/2" home made version had no measurable performance difference from the 1/2" open spacer, but maybe this taller one will make a difference with the extra volume: