VLS1

As per title, let's hear what brand and grade of engine oil everyone is running.

Synthetic, Mineral, Blend?

5w30, 10w40, 15w50?

I have heard mixed opinions and am leaning towards a full synthetic race oil, but yet to decide if it is worth the extra funds over a more conventional oil.

dogsballs

15w40 castrol semi synth

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

I have always just run regular 5w30. Never saw a need to change what the factory called for in the motors original application.

toxic99

5w/30 Mobil 1 synthetic

TXsilverado

iTrader: (18)

Mobil1 10w30 synthetic.

Prorac1

iTrader: (4)

10w30 Valvoline. Regular non syn. Eric L

UOP

Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic

Actually I run it as a universal oil in all of my vehicles, gas and diesel.

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

Rotella 10W30 with 1/3 bottle lucas break in additive every oil changes.

fast89stang

iTrader: (2)

what I get at work for free.....5/20 non synth. Change it about 1 time a month or so.

Doug G

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

5w-30 winter / 10w-30 summer Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic with a 1/3 bottle of Lucas break in oil.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

I usually run a galling of castrol 10/40, and a quart of 20/50 to too it off. Texas heat breaks down oil fast so I don't like running the 5w30.

VLS1

Thanks for the responses all, about where I figured many would be with the variation of mainly lighter weight oils. I think I will go with the full synthetic with there being so many more to choose from over mineral and blends. I guess eventually synthetic may be all that is available in the future.

Not going to say I agree 100% when many of us here will see shift points (some 7000+ rpm) that the factory never intended the engines purpose for such conditions.

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

I will agree that, however all my LS swaps have been basically stock short blocks that never saw much over 6500 so I never saw the need for what I was doing.

Petey-Pop-383

5W30 reg. Castrol, with 450ml of ZDDP/Zinc Additive
No valve tip/rocker tip wear issues.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

If you use synthetic, use Mobil one, royal purple(breaks down too fast) or other high end. The rest are blends even if they say full synthetic.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Don't ever use oil if the seal is broken. Listen to this: Just put a new timing chain and chain damper on my car. Because I had the engine open, I decided to change the oil. I bought the oil from Walmart. When I took the car out after the change, I had lower upper RPM oil pressure. The idle oil pressure was the same 30-35 pounds it had always been, but as the RPM rose, the oil pressure barely came up.

Because I had the oil pump off to install the timing chain, all kinds of ideas were going through my head. I was thinking I was going to have to pull it all back apart to look for the problem. But, then I remembered the the seal was broken on the gallon of oil when I bought it. So, just to see, I put in new oil. Viola! Normal oil pressure.

So, somebody did something or made some kind of switch to that oil. Who knows what. But, if the seal is broken, the oil is going back next time fore sure.

thirdgenbum

iTrader: (17)

Amsoil Dominator 10w30 in mine. i use their stuff in everything.

68SSJARHEAD

10-40 Castrol Full Synthetic w/ a bottle of ZZDDP......no such things as cold starts with this oil......68 starts up like a 2014 off the showroom floor.....revs alot faster, and jus overall runs better than conventional oil w/ a great idle....engine has about 650 miles on it....

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Heard of that stuff referred to as "scamsoil". Guess there are haters and sponsors.

Why the zzddp? That's for flat tappet motors.
And castrol is not a full synthetic so I wouldn't waste your cash and use Mobil 1.