If your tuning for the street,,, and if the current show doesn't change the law, The entire US is about to get another 5-10 -percent alcohol in the fuel. The issues with keeping carbs running on 20+ percent alcohol are endless, corrosion, clogging, etc.. If I was investing now, I'd pay attention to that in the carb vs. EFI evaluation.
I've used mopar old school alternators. for general conversions with the standard old mopar external regulator, the wiring is simple and the alternator mounts easy. you get 100 to 120 amps (Look for the old dodge police packages), they coool well. ONly downside is the diameter..
Other-rwise you can use the mopar regulator to run a 2 wire GM with some tweeking, i've had too many 1 wire units drain the battery when the diodes get older..
Use the stock truck alternator and solder a 470-ohm 1/2w resistor in between the switched 12v source and the LS1 alternator plug. This is the B terminal of the ABCD alternator plug. I just used this painless harness and connected it to switched 12v power and ran a 4g battery cable from the battery cable terminal on the back of the alternator right to the battery.
I kept my CS130 I was running when I did the LS swap.
I cut off the lower half of the stock truck bracket, installed the alternator, modded a bracket to hold alternator, bought a serpentine pulley for the Alt, and installed a short belt. (No PS,AC,Etc.) Working fine.
The alternator on an LS swap is no different than any other motor. Some variants of the GM unit need the resistor OR a dash charge light like described above, but other than that they are simple to wire up.
The internet is full of articles describing the advantages of having a remote voltage sense wire vs a one wire alternator. Our carb'd motors don't have the extreme current draw of an EFI motor, but still seems like a trivial thing to run a voltage sense wire back to the fuse box and maybe a keyed power wire.
Just use whatever alternator came with your pullout and splice it in.