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Lsx swap help

 
Old 05-31-2019, 10:58 AM
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Default Lsx swap help

Hello I have a 76 el Camino
car already has the running 5.3 with msd 6014 box holly mid rise and Holley carb, I have a Holley blue and a Holley regulator for fueling with a fuel cell with sump no return my question is will this pump and regulator work with me switching to a ls6 intake with painless wiring harness and box or will I need to change it to a different pump ?
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Old 05-31-2019, 12:54 PM
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Will the pump supply fuel at 58psi? That is what is needed for EFI.
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Old 05-31-2019, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
Will the pump supply fuel at 58psi? That is what is needed for EFI.

Yes without the the regulator inline gauge was reading almost 9psi which is why I put the regulator on

so will I need to run a return back to the cell or is this not needed ?
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:47 PM
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ONLY 9 psi?? Injection requires 58 psi!
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Old 06-01-2019, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Blac94z28 View Post
I have a Holley blue and a Holley regulator...Ö. will I need to change it to a different pump ?
Yes, That pump and regulator is a low pressure carb setup, You'll likely need to replace the whole fuel system including lines unless it was plumbed with fuel line capable of holding a much higher pressure.
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Old 06-01-2019, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit View Post
Yes, That pump and regulator is a low pressure carb setup, You'll likely need to replace the whole fuel system including lines unless it was plumbed with fuel line capable of holding a much higher pressure.
Thanks, Yes after a hour of research I found that the holley blue only hold max 14 psi so I ordered a holley 200 gph dominator in-line billet fuel pump
Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
ONLY 9 psi?? Injection requires 58 psi!
Red Alert lol Thanks
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:40 PM
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1. efi systems in general maintain 30-100psi.
2. 'older' efi systems (92-98? depends on the car model) run 44psi base, and use reference to engine vacuum to bring pressure down to 37psi~ (when there is vacuum) and higher than 44psi when there is boost (15psi of boost = 59psi fuel pressure)
3. 'newer' systems (01-07?) use 58psi and non-reference to vacuum, this allowed them to put the regulator in the rear of the car, away from the engine, to simplify things they also include the filter with the regulator and call it a 'filter regulator'. But don't be fooled its the same exact system as #2 with just a regulator/return relocated to the rear by the tank with no vacuum reference, and set to a permanent 58psi.

So to answer your question, yes you will need a return line into the fuel tank from some regulator which ideally is mounted in the engine bay, in an easy to inspect, maintain, vibration resistant location that isn't the firewall.

Next. just like with blood pressure and oil pressure, having lots of pressure isn't a good thing. Lower fuel pressure will extend fuel system component life, including fuel pump.I recommend to set the base pressure around 35-38psi, instead of 44. The only time you would need to raise pressure, is if you are out of injector at peak power and still have the fuel pump to raise it. Nobody should ever run out of injector, as we have seen that using injectors which put wot duty cycle near 50-60% maximum improve the reliability of injector drivers and solenoid (the current handling components timed by the computer's output through a hardware driver). In other words, if you use 2000hp worth of injectors to feed 1000hp, the duty cycle will be near 50%, which means the injector and current supporting hardware will be using half the current, and turned "on" for half of the time. That gives it a chance to cool off before "squirts". Now just imagine running 1000hp worth of injector with 1000hp: the injectors never get a chance to rest. The duty cycle is 100%. So yes 80% is nice. But I am saying shoot for 50%, use a huge injector. And now you can reduce the fuel pressure to 33psi and run a nice long stable idle pulsewidth which is important for properly controlling an injector at idle. They don't do well with very short pulses, none of them really like to go below 1ms. So with huge injectors its a game of making it so you can run 1.2ms at idle, this nice long precise squirt of fuel, how can you accomplish 1.2ms without running rich? And it begins.
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:47 PM
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It's been settled, King buddy. You're reverting to your old ways of telling everyone what they already know, OR more than they need or want to know. Ease up.
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Old 06-02-2019, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
It's been settled, King buddy. You're reverting to your old ways of telling everyone what they already know, OR more than they need or want to know. Ease up.
His old ways, You mean like a bunch of rambling that adds little to nothing to the topic ? lol.

OP what efi system are you looking at running, You say painless wiring and box...care to share exactly what it is? If you haven't purchased it yet I would suggest looking at the Holley Terminator X.
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Old 06-02-2019, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit View Post
His old ways, You mean like a bunch of rambling that adds little to nothing to the topic ? lol.
Yep! LOL BTW I thought he was banned. On parole? Stay of execution?
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma View Post
Yep! LOL BTW I thought he was banned. On parole? Stay of execution?
^^^^^^
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Old 06-04-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
1. efi systems in general maintain 30-100psi.
2. 'older' efi systems (92-98? depends on the car model) run 44psi base, and use reference to engine vacuum to bring pressure down to 37psi~ (when there is vacuum) and higher than 44psi when there is boost (15psi of boost = 59psi fuel pressure)
3. 'newer' systems (01-07?) use 58psi and non-reference to vacuum, this allowed them to put the regulator in the rear of the car, away from the engine, to simplify things they also include the filter with the regulator and call it a 'filter regulator'. But don't be fooled its the same exact system as #2 with just a regulator/return relocated to the rear by the tank with no vacuum reference, and set to a permanent 58psi.

So to answer your question, yes you will need a return line into the fuel tank from some regulator which ideally is mounted in the engine bay, in an easy to inspect, maintain, vibration resistant location that isn't the firewall.

Next. just like with blood pressure and oil pressure, having lots of pressure isn't a good thing. Lower fuel pressure will extend fuel system component life, including fuel pump.I recommend to set the base pressure around 35-38psi, instead of 44. The only time you would need to raise pressure, is if you are out of injector at peak power and still have the fuel pump to raise it. Nobody should ever run out of injector, as we have seen that using injectors which put wot duty cycle near 50-60% maximum improve the reliability of injector drivers and solenoid (the current handling components timed by the computer's output through a hardware driver). In other words, if you use 2000hp worth of injectors to feed 1000hp, the duty cycle will be near 50%, which means the injector and current supporting hardware will be using half the current, and turned "on" for half of the time. That gives it a chance to cool off before "squirts". Now just imagine running 1000hp worth of injector with 1000hp: the injectors never get a chance to rest. The duty cycle is 100%. So yes 80% is nice. But I am saying shoot for 50%, use a huge injector. And now you can reduce the fuel pressure to 33psi and run a nice long stable idle pulsewidth which is important for properly controlling an injector at idle. They don't do well with very short pulses, none of them really like to go below 1ms. So with huge injectors its a game of making it so you can run 1.2ms at idle, this nice long precise squirt of fuel, how can you accomplish 1.2ms without running rich? And it begins.
thank you appreciate the breakdown

Originally Posted by LLLosingit View Post
His old ways, You mean like a bunch of rambling that adds little to nothing to the topic ? lol.

OP what efi system are you looking at running, You say painless wiring and box...care to share exactly what it is? If you haven't purchased it yet I would suggest looking at the Holley Terminator X.
yes Iíve already purchased the painless
60217 with a 411 looking pcm
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