1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

I just got a 2002 35th Anniversary Z28 A4 36K miles. It has leather interior and its Red. Its bone stock but not to long. Here are some pics of the car..A older women owned it and Iam the 2nd owner of it.
1.Frost Tune
2.Smooth Bellows
3.SLP LM1 Catback
4.Throttle Body Bypass
5.P&P TB
6.Longtube Headers/Off Road Y-Pipe
7.373 Gears
8.SS4000 Stall.
9.UMI Weld In Sub Frame Connectors
10.BMR LCA's
11.UMI Strut Tower Brace
12. 15x4 and 15x8 Jegs Sport Stars
13.275x50x15 M/T DR's..

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

Nice buy.
I would forget #4. You do not get anything from a larger MAF with stock engine. I would save for a larger intake/TB.
Do you have any tuning software? If you are going to do a lot of MODS it will save you money having someone else tune your car.

Since it is a A4 a torque convertor is a great mod. I wished I had installed a TC first or close to it.

Bill

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

What is that green looking car in the background?

SS02

Nice buy

JayplaySS

iTrader: (15)

Nice buy but dude, you got alot of **** in your yard

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

Green car looks like a 70's duster.

I would skip the MAF & smooth bellows.

Probably skip it all, and get a used procharger or turbo kit off the boards.

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

Very nice buy... Congrats...

And I agree also on the slp maf. I have a built 403 stroker and it's still running on the stock maf and maf ends.

It's a waste of money IMHO.
But if thats what you want to do, It's your car and don't let anyone keep you from modding it the way you want. But it's just our oppinions.

Good Luck with the mods and take care of it. It's VERY Nice!

James

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the comments, The lime green car is a 73 duster its my dads.It gots a big block 440 in it auto 727 3800-4000g stall trans brake 8pt roll cage 488 gears. The best it ran is a 6.98 in the 1/8th and 10.88 in the 1/4. Its a N/A car no power adders. That tractor we was useing it and the other trucks are my dads and the D-50 is both of are mud bog truck.. I will skip the MAF sensor. Should I de screen the stock one.. I added more things to the list of do's.

squee

iTrader: (16)

I would descreen and port the stock MAF. That should be more than enough for a bolt-on car. I would also add an underdrive pulley and subframe connectors to the list. Oh hell, I'd add alot to the list to be honest, but the subframe connectors are a must and the underdrive pulley is a nice little option as well since your doing most of the other bolt-ons.

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

Thanks I thought about the underdrive pulley and sub frames connectors. I wanted to get most of the bolt on's first.

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

I say gears and stall your car will boogie the most with those, I run faster than a lot of people with bolt ons simply cause I have 3:42's in a A4 and I have a 3k stall, going to be getting a yank4kss to replace mine.

SOM02WS6

Leave the MAF alone!!! The stock one will support around 500hp!!! It is so hit and miss when you start screwing with it...

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

Thanks ya'll I was gonna do 373 gears since my car has 273 gears now. I was gonna get a stall to 3500-3800 stall. Ok I will leave the MAF sensor alone then if its good up to 500HP. Iam just trying to get as much HP without going internaily right now.

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

IMHO....

-Air Lid and K&N Filter
-Longtubes and ory pipe, and a nice catback exhaust system
-STALL (Yank 3600-3800 ish)
-3.42 gears (just get a rearend out of a 6 speed car- all of them have 3.42's except 93's. Those come with 3.23's due to a steeper 1st gear in the 6 speed transmission)
-UD Pulley and an OD Alternator Pulley - and u will need a new belt!
-New plugs and Wires (NGK TR55 Plugs and MSD Wires)
- Then once you get the bolt-ons on then your going to have to upgrade your suspension in order to plant your new-found power..... Lower Control Arms, LCA Relocation Brackets, Sub Frame Connectors, Torque Arm, Panhard Bar, Strut Tower Brace under the hood, Drag or adj. Shocks, Drag/street Springs, and Drag Radials

But thats always been my list of stuff. Just trying to offer some suggestions of my own.
Remember though just b/c you add power doesn't make it faster unless you are able to put the power to the ground!

Good Luck

James

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the helpful info..

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

I took it to the track lastnight and the best I could get out of it was a..Iam taking it again tonight to another track. This was my first time in a car going down the track..

RT-.332
60"-2.037
330"-5.937
1/8"-8.884
MPH-81.65

pat-ls101

Thats not bad for your first time! Do u have any wheel spin? or was it a dead hook? Get that 60ft down and you'll see better times!

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=pat-ls101;12213952]Thats not bad for your first time! Do u have any wheel spin? or was it a dead hook? Get that 60ft down and you'll see better times! [/QUOT

Thanks No it dead hooked I was running it with the traction control on.Ya get the 60ft time down and I will be quicker.. I ran it 4 times I just posted my best time of the night. All 4 runs was 2.1XX 60 ft. I turned the traction control off in the stanging lane but I cut the car off. I didnt now that the traction control came on automaticly when the cars starts up again.

I updated my parts list and i added something...

Now I have a SLP Airbox Lid,Smooth Bellow,K&N Airfilter installed now.

pat-ls101

[QUOTE=1Bad97WS-6;12213962]You definatly want to shut the traction control off. I think that car should be in the 8.8-8.9 @ 80-82MPH

1Bad97WS-6

iTrader: (3)

It might of Ran that but I thought it was off since I turned it off in the staging lanes. I will find out this thursdaynight. But I have did some minor bolt on's. Do you think a SLP Lid,Smooth bellow and a K&N Filter will help much..I now I have looked on sites and they say the Lid and filter adds up to 12HP and the smooth bellow 5-6 HP.