oldLS1zcar

This vehicle is a 2001 Z28 with the 6 speed tranny and LS1 v8 engine. All stock with factory alarm. Nothing has been modified or changed from factory. Very low milage.

So I messed around and let the car sit too long and battery died. My keys don't 'match' any of the lock cylinders. (tried getting Chevy to make a new key from my vin number - STILL The 'new' key don't match any of the locks)

Paid a locksmith to open the door and replaced dead battery with new battery. Will deal with getting new lock cylinders made later...

When I installed the new battery the alarm started going off. Jumped in the car and turned the ignition key to shut it up. (this key works) Alarm quit sounding but keyfob batteries are dead as well. Got a replacement keyfob battery but had trouble with the 'resynchronization' steps in manual. I pressed and held down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons both at same time for about 10 seconds and nothing happened. Manual said door locks should cycle and interior lights should flash to confirm resynchronization. Nothing happened. None of the keyfob buttons do anything at all. Book says I got to 'match transmitter to my vehicle' now... Have not done that yet.

New battery in car AND in keyfob.

Car turns over well but I get absolutely nothing that sounds like it is trying to start.

Is this something to do with not 'matching the transmitter to the vehicle' yet and the car 'thinks' it is being stolen preventing it from starting??? Would it turn over but not start in this type situation?

Or do I have bad fuel issues causing my troubles??? Car has been sitting a WHILE but I did top off tank with fresh high octane before any of this today.

I 'wanted' to siphon out all the old fuel and run it in my beater car but encountered an 'anti-siphon' device a few inches down in the filler neck!

If any of you guys DO happen to think this is a fuel related issue and can point me to direction as for how to drain this tank using the schrader valve on the fuel rail and how to go about hot wiring the fuel pump to get it to pump the old fuel out for me I would REALLY appreciate it! Need the part number for what I have to get to plug into the schrader valve and tips how to hotwire the fuel pump safely.

This all my fault for letting the car sit too long... Kicking myself in butt about it and trying to figure out how to best proceed.

Appreciate any and all advice here guys.

maxharvard

Initial prognosis looks like the VATS system is getting you.

oldLS1zcar

Appreciate you taking the time to help here friend.



I did a google on that and read some about the resistor on the key itself. The 'vehicle anti theft system'.

I think the anti theft system 'may' be to blame here but I don't think it is related to the ignition key. Key has worked fine in past and I can't see how a simple resistor could go 'bad' by sitting. (no batteries to go bad on the ingnition key)

This is a known to be 'working' ignition key with the correct resistor for the ignition lock cylinder. Car will turn over now but no joy getting it to actually start and run (or try to start).

Do you know if the car 'requires' me to 'match transmitter to vehicle' before it will run or is simply having the ignition key 'good enough' to start the car for now?

I wonder if the VATS has somehow 'killed' the 'spark' until it gets the correct 'code' from the keyfob???

FWIW - On 'other' vehicles of mine - I have always 'preferred' to wire a kill switch in line with either the fuel pump or the spark plugs to prevent theft.
I always figured that if the car still turns over but does not start - They won't go 'looking' for an alarm type device... They will just leave and find a car that runs properly.

I am wondering if Chevy did the same thing here with their alarm system... Fixed it where the car would turn over but NOT get spark or fuel until it gets the correct 'code' from the keyfob.

I am clueless and trying to figure it out.

Thanks again for the help here.

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

where are you?? i would throw some of the resoline stuff in the takes water outta the fuel tank. depending where you live there will be more water than in dry areas.

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

i had a vats issue once. car starts right away... no issues but cuts off right away.. like not enough gas. whats gives vats away if the light doesn't pop up is it will constantly start no problem over and over again and cut off over and over again

maxharvard

Are there any MIL codes?

oldLS1zcar

Just wanted to thank everyone that has been trying to help here and give an update on my progress.

pulled the radio fuse and went through the steps in the manual to 'match the transmitter to the vehicle'. Could not get anything to work with the keyfob still. (new battery in keyfob and car BTW) Tried several times with NO luck.

Out of pure guessing - I opened up the keyfob and checked the battery and connections. Ended up being that I am an idiot and had the battery in upside down. Everything worked exactly like the manual said it would once the keyfob battery was installed correctly. Keyfob is now 'matched' to car and all buttons on it (and the alarm) work correctly.

I feel pretty stupid for that one...

Tried to start car after alarm was definitely turned OFF and still had no luck. Car never even acted like it was 'trying' to start. Only thing I noticed that was 'different' this time around was a slight gas type smell after cranking for a bit. Never got any sort of smell at all the first time with the alarm still on.

I paid special attention to the radio and car alarm red led's before and after 'matching' the keyfob to the car and noticed that 'before' the keyfob was actually matched to the car correctly - The alarm led for the radio and the car continued to flash regardless of having the key in the ignition or not.

Once the keyfob WAS matched to the car and the alarm was turned OFF - Those alarm led's went out like they should have...

The alarm 'may' have been causing some of the issue with the car not starting that first go round. Not sure but somewhat get that feeling based on what the led's did before and after.

Either way - Car still won't start and I still need help with this if you guys got the time and patience.

My next steps are going to be to see if I got spark (got a tool to check this with that does not require me to pull any plug wires - just need a 'helper' to turn car over while I hold tool and watch for spark), and then try and figure out how to get all the old fuel OUT and some new fuel IN along with replacing the fuel filter once I get all the old OUT. (don't want to ruin a new filter by sending possibly bad fuel through it???)

I need part numbers for the correct tool to plug into the fuel rail to help me do this (get the old fuel out) and tips on how to properly use / hotwire the fuel pump to get the old fuel moving OUT.

FWIW - I plan to save every drop and use it a little at a time in my 'beater' till it is gone. Hope I dont screw THAT ride up in the process!

Thanks for any help here guys!

97camaroguy

iTrader: (5)

Question for you, do you hear the fuel pump priming when you put the key in second position?