Cpt.Derrek

iTrader: (13)

Sorry to maybe steer you in different direction but the ECU should not have anything to do with the Key fob unable to lock the car. Are you getting any power at all when you start or are you getting power but the starter won't do anything? If you are getting power but you are not hearing the fuel pump priming and getting a security light on the dash you likely will have a BCM issue.

00SSProject

I have had power intermittently over the past few days Friday through Sunday then Monday all power is gone. I went to look at the car again today and saw that the security light wasn't blinking still. I thought it was the computer at first because the MAP sensor wiring has a low circuit error. The ASR is also disabled but the fuse appears to be working fine. I will check the easy stuff first,
1. Battery
2. BCM
3. Wiring

If I can't find a solution there first I will have to take it to a shop. I have zero skill with electrical systems in cars.

thank your for the suggestion Cpt Derrek. I will look into the BCM because I have no idea what that is or what it is supposed to when functioning properly.

Cpt.Derrek

iTrader: (13)

When you say you have no power is that just when you are trying to crank over the engine? Still could be a BCM issue. The BCM has the VATS (Vehicle Ant-theft System) which will not allow fuel pump to prime (pump should prime as soon as you turn on the ignition) or allow starter to engage. checkout this thread regarding the BCM issue and fix. It's a pretty common issue. But yes getting your battery checked should be done as well and maybe your battery terminals to make sure you are getting a good connection. I had a bad BCM and a bad battery terminal with my old 99T/A, not at the same time but just to give you an idea.

00SSProject

Cpt. Derrek, I had the battery checked and it works fine 99% charged. Put the battery back in and all of the electrical turned on again. This solves some of my problems so far. I had the vehicle running while the accelerator was engaged last night for about a minute. I will be checking the BCM and wiring today.
Again thanks for the reply and suggestion.

Cpt.Derrek

iTrader: (13)

glad to hear you got it running. What do you mean by "running while the accelerator was engaged"?

00SSProject

When I turned the key on and start the engine, it dies after it reaches the normal idle of about 700 rpm. I tried to start the engine again and kept the accelerator engaged and the engine continued to run until I let off, after which the engine died.

Cpt.Derrek

iTrader: (13)

ahh ok. now it seems like a sensor or other system issue. Do you have a scanner to see if you are getting any codes?

Edit: sorry forgot about first page with your codes. Are you still getting them? See if you can clear them and let it relearn then check codes again.

00SSProject

I went out to start up the engine just for kicks, it fired right up no problem. I tested the ECU to see if the wiring was faulty and the engine didn't stumble. I'm still getting error codes but the engine only seems to operate every so often so I'm going to check wiring and grounds later today. All of the electrical is working, radio, windows, locking mechanisms. So my search continues for the fault in the system.

00SSProject

While I was testing my electrical I had to test my MAP sensor pins on my PCM. I keep getting an error code stating the MAP sensor circuit is low. I tested the 5 volt reference and found no voltage with accessory on, no voltage at the sensor plug in either. Other than that error the car is driving fine. I also had time to dial in the injector slope a little better with the Intune +9% has decreased the fuel usage a lot so far.

I don't have the ability to take apart all of the wiring this weekend so for now I will be driving it as is. I don't think its the sensor because I have just replaced my MAP sensor less than three months ago.

The only other major issue I can think of would be the ASR not turning back on. I really don't care about it not turning back on but for me it seems to be a puzzle and I will solve it later. For now I'm just glad the car runs fine and starts just fine. To everybody on this forum that have helped me in the past thank you. This car will be 15 years old next month with 161k miles on the factory motor is impressive to me.

In the coming months I plan on fixing the rear hatch defroster and prepping the car for paint. Stay tuned.

00SSProject

So I was moving a wiring harness the other day and now I have a vacuum leak from my PCV connection to my block. I think its my PCV connection at least. I popped the hose right out and it slides right back in. Listen the engine in the video below and I also have a photo of the hose. I'm wrapping the connection in thread tape in an attempt to help seal the vacuum I guess.

00SSProject

Did a smoke test today, first time I did one luckily I had a friend helping me. I found a leak at the PCV hose line, the throttle body, and the throttle body plastic boot. After putting hose clamps on the PCV hose and solving some of the leak, I did another test to see if any other areas were leaking. I found a leak on the intake and the throttle body again. I'm going to check the intake gaskets and the intake for any deformities and cracks. I will take apart the throttle body another weekend. If anybody needs to see how the smoke machine works I will try to see if I can post a video link later.

00SSProject

So I replaced my intake gaskets, learned that the bolts have to be torqued down to spec 89 in-lbs that was fun. I also learned that their is a specific order to tightening the bolts that was interesting to do. After I did all of that the car was still running like crap but the intake looked clean and the random misfire was gone. I used a scan tool and found a new set of heater sensor circuit error codes. I tracked down the fuse in the engine bay fuse box labeled "ENG Sensor" it cost .25$ to replace and the car now runs without problems. No more shake or crazy body rocking going on. This one 20A fuse was causing such a rough idle, the engine to run rich and sound like crap. Replacing a fuse and reading a repair manual completely changed my Camaro today. Now it's time for a joy ride.......

Stay tuned for the future paint job.

00SSProject

It seems, I need to update my project status. So far this month I have replaced my Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. I reset the computer and cleared the codes. (EGR and AIR deleted) I went to start up my car and keep the battery charged. I had my Service Engine Soon light flashing and thought that the MAP sensor failed again. Not this time, now I have four codes P0300 (random misfire) P0405 (Exhaust gas re-circulation sensor circuit low), P0410 (Secondary Air injection system) P0412 (Secondary air injection solenoid control circuit). The new code is the P0412.

To solve the P0300 random misfire I'm going to reset my computer with a tuner. If that doesn't work....I'll deal with that when it happens..

The air system error codes can be tuned out with the EGR. Is it worth it to put the system back on the car? Currently all I have is the air pump. Any input on about the air system is appreciated.

dailydriver

The EGR and A.I.R. codes will keep coming back on if you do not have them written out of the ECM by a tuner with the correct tuner systems (HP Tuners/EFI Live, etc.).

They CANNOT be 'tuned out' by a DiabloSport, or any other 'handheld' type tuning device.

Most on here will say that NOTHING is effected performance wise by deleting the A.I.R. and EGR systems (but they also do NOT daily drive their cars, nor do they live in draconian inspection, including visual emissions inspections, type states/areas either).

On other sites, many state that the EGR system actually helps driveability during part throttle situations, and keeps the fuel trims from bouncing all over the place.

IF one is going to retain catcons AT ALL, whether they are the stock/OEM type in the stock location, OR the aftermarket 'metal matrix' type on the collectors of long tubes, the A.I.R. system WILL help the catcons live a longer life, despite that most on here will say they can 'tune' the trims to the point where it won't hurt their aftermarket, non-stock catcons.
This is because the A.I.R. system is the ONLY thing that will let the catcons 'light off' during start up/warm up, and STAY hot enough for them to function properly during hot operating temps.

Just look at all of those who burned out/destroyed their costly spun metal matrix type catcons ever since anyone has been putting long tubes on LSxes.
Now IF one is doing without catcons at all, then YES, by ALL means get rid of the A.I.R. system.
Of course, now at least 100 members on here will come on and refute this. :LOL:

00SSProject

I understand that the A.I.R. system codes will keep coming back on, I have contacted one of the site supporters about getting them tuned out/ turned off however you like to say it.

As far as the catcons go, the car didn't have them when I bought it and don't plan on putting them and redoing the exhaust with them. The only part of the A.I.R. system still on the car as far as I can tell is the A.I.R pump its self.

It will be a daily driver in Colorado but I want to be able to take it to the track in the summer also. I understand that using a daily driver as a race car can be dangerous but its also very rewarding if I only race a few times a year and do it properly.

Current codes are just the P0300 random misfire/ multiple cylinder misfire.
I have reset the computer back to factory and I'm hoping that the cam is factory and not aftermarket. ( I will update the OP today)

Here is what I have done to solve the P0300 error code so far:
Factory tune
AC Delco plugs (need to check, maybe fouled)
Verified plug gap
MSD Plug wires (brand new less than 200 miles)
Compression test (all cylinders have good compression)
Checked voltage on coil packs

Probable solutions: (if Camshaft is factory)
replace fouled plugs
Replace coil packs (double check coil packs again?)
check the plug wires for fraying or bad connections? (weather and critters?)
new MAF sensor?
New throttle body with butterfly that doesn't have a hole in it (pictures later)

dailydriver

What kind of track/racing, road or drag??

The A.I.R. pump is just dead weight if it is not hooked up and being used, and if you can get through (visual) inspection without one (or the EGR), then yes, scrap them, and 'write' the resultant DTCs out with a tune.

I would DEFINITELY have long tubes on the car IF it could pass my draconian, privatized state inspection (yes, even in red state-like, tea partyish Pennsyltuckey ), and I had NO plans on running catcons.

00SSProject

daily driver, I would fail any emissions test on the car today or any day of the week. I have long tube headers, no cats nothing for emissions at all.

I only plan on doing drag racing, auto cross is fun but I don't too many tracks around me to go race at. Since I live in Colorado for now I also have to get a second set of tires that will have to be all weather.

00SSProject

So thanks to diablosport, and Lew at Diablewtune I have a smooth running Camaro again. No more service engine soon codes, this is a wonderful thing. I only have to deal with a squeaky power steering pulley from hell. I keep spraying WD-40 on to quiet it as much as possible but it needs to be replaced.

So one pulley and a paint job to go at this point.

If I had known that all I needed to do was a proper tune and smaller fuel injectors earlier this would have gone a lot faster.

dailydriver

^^^So, they did a CMR tune for you, and installed it into a Predator/Trinity/InTune??

00SSProject

Yup pretty much. I already had an inTune I just got a CMR tune and loaded it up from Lew. Greatest investment in the car so far.