dojob

Treadwear warranty needs used in sets of 4 tires.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and I did make some stainless steel spacers to hold the heim joints out from the mounting location giving it more room to turn.

Also, does anyone know if any 15" rim will fit now that the rear caliper fins are shaved off? It was done by the old owner and I've never tried a 15 on it yet.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

So, Friday after work I pull the car out to get in and watch while my wife sprays the back window with the hose. I didn't notice the hood cracked and pulled my 25 amp Odyssey battery charger and then ran it over when I went forward. Then Saturday on my way to tune the turbo Mustang, I lost my alternator. That left me shopping Sunday for a large charger at Northern and getting a new alt on Monday. Installed that night. Tomorrow the rear window is removed and resealed so I can finally drive this thing daily if I want or need too.

I'm looking at BLS headlight with HID projectors, but I want the light to stop coming on all the time. What normally causes this, my guess is the light sensor in the dash needs to be replaced?

I need to find a used (or better yet someone loan me one) panhard bar relocation bracket. Anyone can help me out? I want to make sure the exhaust clears my watts and that in case I do run drag week and I have to go back to one.

I'm no also looking at Forgestar F14 wheels as another option to the speedline wheels. They would have to be 18 x 10, but the weight is about the same and I can get the back spacing to fit perfectly. The price is also similar, but the one thing I can think of is to rotate tires they would have to be remounted on the wheels as they will only fit front or back.

I want to change my deck out, but not sure how the volume will change without an amp. I already have the double din bezel and I have a cheap JVC from my old truck to use for now, but I'd rather find a light single or two light amps to get okay sound and volume. I don't do a lot of systems, so I'd rather get help on amps and get it right the first time. I'd like to be able to hide it behind the rear plastics if possible where the factory one is might be enough room.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Rear glass is sealed again, so now I don't have to avoid the rain completely.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Where are you in FL? I was considering this exact same glass replacement for weight savings. One end of those heim endlinks still need to be dismounted to adjust the length, correct?

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

I'm in Melbourne. I just did it for a leak, but there is a lighter armor glass or plastic. Another member on here has done it so he could help you with direct info on that stuff. Probably find most of it in posts he has already done.

Correct. I didn't see doing a lot of adjusting so I went with both right hand threaded. I think they did have the same in a reverse thread also, so you could easily make and on car adjustable. You would just need two left hand thread hiem and some left hand threaded rod. Oh, and two left nuts for your jam. Then just weld some of each together with a large nut as the joint so you can also use it to make adjustments.

smitty2919

Using the parts OP gave me from McMaster, I did all RH ends/nuts/threaded rod.

My rods ended up being somewhere around 4.25" if I remember correctly to allow them to adjust to my longest setting and short enough to not bottom out to my shortest setting.

Being $6 each, I'll keep an eye on them for replacement.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I've been looking around at other opinions on whether to use heim endlinks. I found a forum thread elsewhere where someone said the bar needs the compliance at the endlink and since a heim link doesn't offer that it's not ideal. I think I'll stay with the traditional endlinks.

smitty2919

Why does the bar need compliance?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I'll see if I can find the thread again.

dojob

I think you're over thinking what compliance is regarding traditional endlinks.

A "compliance bushing" is located on the lower front control arms of our cars from the factory, the rear bushing on the chassis. It's "compliance" capabilities allow is to let the control arm to articulate, in a binding fashion.

That articulation is best able to be done by a hiem joint or spherical bearing. That's why aftermarket arms have these instead of "compliance bushings". Just the same as would be on an endlink. The heim or spherical bearing allows movement without binding resistance from the bushings material.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Here is my front. UMI box lower control arm with their provided sway bar end link on the Strano sway bar.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

The person who valved my shocks agrees, saying less friction and more linearity is always a good thing, so I'm on board.

2458K35 is a female 7/16"-20. I prefer FKRod, so I'll opt for the JFX7T. I just use it with the remainder of the current parts?

http://www.fkrodends.com/JFXJFXL16.html

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I received my 18x11 F14s today, and I'm very disappointed that they weigh 24lbs each. I bought them as a nicer looking option that was supposedly similar weight. The hub mounting surfaces are rough on the edges. Not as professional as I had expected. I'm going to inquire about returning them.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

well, that sucks as they look much better. Grab a picture of the mounting area as I'm sure I'm not the only one that would like to see it. I've decided to wait on order until I could measure and be 100% about how everything would fit no matter which one I went with.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Here's all four.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

Wow, so casting issues and the machine work is not great. I'm more worried to see they can't get the metal solid. There is no telling if one of the supports has a void making it weak also. Thanks for heads up.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Please explain to me what you're looking at to see the casting issues and/or the metal isn't solid.

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

If the casting is perfect and the machine work is solid then all 5 would look exactly the same in the pictures. The first one you posted has black still on the top left because the metal was lower and didn't get cut by the CNC. The is also a pocket hole on that inner circle. Porosity in castings, is when they have random air pockets that cause weak spots. There are different things they do to make sure it doesn't happen for different things. Some times they can keep them hot longer and cool them slower. Some times they use vibrations to make sure the bubbles get out before cooling. I'm not saying these have this issue, but when I think about flying around a corner at high speeds. I'd rather not see any little issues so I feel better about the parts I can't see.

I would like to get two sets of wheels, so I can have track tires and street tires and may still order a set of these for not super sticky tires that save me money to run on the road and look good. But, I'm almost certain I'm going with the factory wheels to use at the track and as my first set in case I don't get a second set.

dojob

IMO those marks are from manufacturing. Got banged up from machining hub and drilling bolt pattern.

Yes rough looking. Not air pockets or voids in the castings.