Horror5.7

What's up everyone. New to the fourm here and seeking immediate assistance if possible. Here's the deal; I own a 96 Z28 6 Speed all stock besides running headers all the way back. The distributor went out late last year maybe in September I believe (2016) and the car has been sitting since and I hate that. I attempted to install a new distributor but when I cranked it, it would not start. I'm assuming my timing is wrong as I was not to aware that I had to move it(?). *I did move the crank I believe to be able to take off the distributor because it would not clear the " 3 ears ". Not sure if I messed something up while doing that. So now I'm pretty much stuck and not sure how to set my timing back. I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE OT IF SOMEONE HAD AN ACTUAL DETAILED VIDEO ON INSTALLING THE DISTRIBUTOR ETC. since I've looked on Google and I've found photos mainly or videos that don't give you a good look at what they are doing or they might not even say what they are doing.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

There is a notch on the back of the opti that matches the cam pin, so there is really only one way to install it. Unlike a SBC, it is not possible to install the opti 180 degrees out, because the PCM controls the timing.

http://shbox.com/1/opti_back.jpg

Horror5.7

Thanks for the reply! Well when I initially installed my distributor I just twisted the back part of the distributor to match the location of of the cam pin so it can slip right back in to that distributor notch. Am I supposed to turn the cam pin pointing towards #1 first and then put my distributor on it?

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Nope, it doesn't matter where the cam sits. As long as the opti is installed correctly, the PCM will pick up the timing. And since you didn't remove the crank hub, there's no need to press that on at TDC.

Double check your plug wires when you pop them back on the opti, it's easy to mix them up. And I'd recommend using loctite on the rotor screws if you haven't already, they've been known to back out. Shoebox's site has a lot of great resources for us LT1 guys.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

Horror5.7

Forsure! So to be clear, although I did move the "crank hub ( the 3 eat like part right under the opti that I need to clear to pull the opti out ) and turned it to the right just to pull the opti out" I can simply just slap the opti back on as long as the notch on the back of the opti matches with the cam pin? I do not have to twist/turn the " crank hub" to the way I found it before removing the opti.(?)

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Just bolt on the opti, put it all back together, and it should fire right up. There's no "clocking" to do like with a traditional dizzy.

Horror5.7

Managed to put it all back on together and all I got was cranking with some back firing when turning the key. Checked the fuel pump and that wasn't the problem, checked the coil and that wasn't the problem either and finally resorted to the spark plug wires and they were on fine.
P.S Thanks to everyone who is lending a hand trying to help me out sending knowledge over.

clinebarger

The Opti will slide all the way onto the timing cover when properly lined-up/indexed, NEVER draw the Opti down with the bolts!
Backfiring could be from it being indexed wrong. Saw it several times when LT1's were more popular.

Horror5.7

*UPDATE* So after I reinstalled everything back together I came to find out that the car needed gas LOL. Threw some gas in there and it wanted to turn on but I feel the gas isn't going through all the way. I believe it may be the fuel pump because I do not hear it priming. It primed when it wanted to turn on, but after a few more tries the pump would not prime anymore. Could it be the pump or relay sensor?

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

The fuel pump uses fuel to cool, so running it out is not good and running without for to long it will burn up quite fast. The relay is under the hood. You can use a multi-meter and a jumper from the battery to do a draw test on it to see if it works and if it's damaged. I don't know the exact draw of the factory pump, but someone else probably does. I would think it would have a running draw around 6 or 7 amps in good condition as the performance walbro 255lph pump draws about 9 amps.

Horror5.7

I thought the relay was under the kick panel on the driver side?

Crf450r420

iTrader: (1)

sorry, forgot you had the LT1 years. Not sure where yours is at. You can still test in the same way.

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

It is, the previous post is incorrect. Put a fuel pressure gauge on your rail to see what your pump is doing. You can also jumper 12v to the FP prime connector to bypass PCM control. Also check your PCM Batt fuse, since without power the PCM cannot turn on the fuel pump.

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg