BigP

Let me start off with the fact that I have an 88 camaro with a 350 chevy. It has an Edlebrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold that has both front and rear water outlets. I used a 1/2 NPT to -8AN straight fitting in the front to a fast flow 90 degree fitting with stainless steel braided hose. The rear water outlet has a 3/8 NPT to-8AN straight fitting to a fast flow fitting and they are connected with the above mentioned stainless hoise. Now my problem lies with the MSD street pro billet distributor because it has vacuum advance. I know that the vacuum advance canister is supposed to be on the passenger side of the engine, with the canister facing towards the corner of the right front fender. However, with the distributor in that position, the canister is hitting the rear water outlet fitting, and is not allowing the distributor to fully seat in the manifold. How do I get around this without losing the 4 corner cooling? It will be a street driven car, and for mileage purposes, the vacuum advance would be nice to have and I don't really want to lose that either. I want to drop the motor in the car tomorrow, but now I cant cause of this and unfortunately, I have a time constraint. Can anyone please help , I beg of you. Any suggestions/opinions will be seriously considered. Thanks, Paul Moore

SeeYaSucker

Point the vaccum advance to the drivers side it won't make a difference, just moves the point of the #1 cyl. where you start your firing order.

01 B4C

iTrader: (3)

or you could remove the distributor and have the vacuum pod removed by a competent speed shop. They will re-curve the distributor and add a mechanical advance. Good luck.

Mechanicsn

A little off topic but I felt it necessary to mention that when setting up four corner cooling there should be restrictors in the lines running from the back to the front of the manifold. The main function of the lines is to pull additional coolant around the rear of the head to help cool the rearmost exhaust valve of the head and to prevent air pockets being trapped in the back of the heads. Coolant is forced through the block to the rear, travels up through the rear openings in the block and head, then forward through the head. Without any restriction in the lines, the coolant will take the path of least resistance and return to the front of the engine without cooling the heads! We always used a .125 restrictor to prevent this, made by epoxying the pipe to AN adapter closed and drilling through the center of the plug with a 1/8 bit. Sorry it took so long to spend my two cents, Kelly.

BigP

So if I don't do this restriction in the coolant transfer tube, the engine will overheat and/or warp my aluminum heads? Is this mostly at lower RPM's or will the volume/pressure of the water pump at higer RPM's force the coolant everywhere in the system? Thanks for the warning, Paul Moore