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After laying down the sound deadening - I was seeing what the SUB would like like.
Rust proof stuff was sprayed in all the channels under the carpet - purchased a air gun and a large tin of the stuff - key here is to warm the paint spray time once you have filled it. The stuff is much easier to spray.
Roof lining is ready to be installed - new lining and cracks repaired.
Floor carpet has been scrubbed and cleaned - only a few stains left.
Rear Seat - scrubbed and cleaned...
Seat belt bolts all cleaned and replanted
All the while working on this stereo upgrade that has changed from a new head unit and a coupe of speakers to a full build.
Seat have been cleaned - they stunk for ages and the water was black...
Rug Doctor Products
Carpet getting a scrub!
Premium Underlay - special stuff to stop external noise - better be good stuff - this sound deading / barrier **** is super expensive, I hope it was worth the effort.
Clean carpet - and no pies ever again to be eaten on this floor.
I put sound proof underlay - new liner under the whole boot area. Was difficult to add the T top plastic racks. in the end I cut the under fllo lining away uder these bits to get them to fit.
Spare wheel area - I need to sort this, rest of the boot area is good.
Rust protection spray gun.. fill it and heat the pot until the product is a lot softer etc
Some say this stuff smells - it does but not for long. I did not know how much to use.. so I did not use huge amounts as I cant spray it where the sound deadening matt is stuck down. I did spray it under all the seat rails and any where I could not paint or there were seems. I did my best. Sprayed in all the rear wall cavities etc
What can I say... hmmmm nice New...
Last edited by DukeCamaro; Nov 4, 2025 at 11:30 AM.
The stereo up grade has changed as I investigated options.
In the end, the original stereo had to stay as it is such a big part of the interior of the car and being a tape deck its cool.
So now that the original stereo has to stay, options where very limited. After a lot of options and wanting the best sound solution I went with the Alpine head unit.
CRT speakers - based on Kee Audio, sub box etc.
This is how the system is planned to work.
🔊 Head Unit
Alpine UTX-A09PRO
6.75" Hi-Res touchscreen
Wireless CarPlay / Android Auto
5 V pre-outs, full DSP
The head unit will play audio files from Iphone - must be HIGH Resolution music files - Tilde
Mic - for hands free Phone
The main stereo head unit will go in the glovebox - hidden away.
The digital display - mounted in Front dash compartment.
Cardboard used as a template for the stereo display.
Now here is the cool bit = Aerpro 2 channel line output converter - will take the speaker out signal from the Bose head unit and send it to the Alpine as AUX in signal - so when I want to play a tape or listen to the the radio I can select the AUX input on the Alpine and it will play the BOSE out of the speakers.
Now that is cool...
🎶 Front Speakers
CDT Audio HD-62iMKHR
6.7" Kevlar midbass + 1" image tweeters
250 W RMS @ 4 Ω
High-resolution “Ultra” crossover network
🔈 Rear Speakers
CDT Audio HD-6EiX
6.7" Kevlar coaxials
160 W RMS @ 4 Ω
🔉 Subwoofer
CDT Audio QEX-1000DL (DeLuxe)
10" Sound-Quality subwoofer
500 W RMS @ 4 Ω (SQ-tuned cone & suspension)
Remote SUB volume control
Subwoofer Enclosure:
SubThump Driver-Side Stealth Enclosure (0.6 cu ft sealed MDF, OEM-matched carpet)
⚡ Amplifiers
CDT Audio ACD-5CH 5-Channel Amplifier
4 × 100 W @ 4 Ω + 1 × 300 W @ 1 Ω
Compact Class D
Alpine S2-A60M Mono Amplifier (added later)
600 W RMS @ 2 Ω / 330 W @ 4 Ω
Powers QEX-1000DL subwoofer
⚙️ Installation & Integration
Metra 95-3009 Double DIN Dash Kit (also Scosche GM1590B alt.)
Antenna & Wiring Adapters (for ’93-’02 Camaro)
Bassik 4 AWG Dual-Fuse Distribution Block (1 in / 2 out fused)
I have ordered a stereo female and male plug - I will use these to make a plug in loom.
Speakers for the sail panels 6.5inch CRT - did not fit... so I got some carboard out and made a template.
Then I used the template to make 3D printed adapters and rubber gaskets.
The template must bolt to the car first, then the speaker bolt to the template 4 x 6mm holes - counter sunk - bolts go though the adapter with nyloc nuts on the inside of the car sail panels. 4mm nyloc nuts go in to the spacer adapter and held in place so when the speaker is offered up to the spacer - which is bolted to the car - 4 x screw hold it in place. A rubber gasket isolates the speaker.
Wiring - Custom made loom, to reduce the amount of chopping. - plug into Bose & Alpine unit at the same time with connections for line output converter.
Speaker Spacer Bolts to the car... 2 x AMPs Trying to work out how to mount them.
The Alpine display - working on a 3D surround bracket to mount the unit in the Center box hole.
Here is stage 1 - a 2mm thick plate to get the display in the right place and looking ok.
NEXT will be a thicker version with tabs to screw in place.
CA Cables and wiring.... I will list what I am using.
Nothing flash but also not cheap rubbish.
[img alt="Stinger 6000 series.
4 x channels for main AMP
2 x Channels for SUB AMP"]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/20250926_180703_45e2e1569641d60deab3173d93cd325dfd 0b6391.jpg[/img]
Stinger 6000 series. 4 x channels for main AMP 2 x Channels for SUB AMP
What can I say... this stereo lark takes some planning, which I did not do a lot of.
So as with most things car, plans evolve as we learn about the process.
Most of the investigation is done after the fact, after we have purchased the goods... we research how good they are for positive reinforcement.
Well that seems how it is for me some times.
So long story short..........
Spacer installed with nyloc nuts - x 8 - Bolt spacer to car - bolt speaker to spacer.
Speaker screwed to spacer
Audio Line converter - AUX in on Alpine head unit will play the Bose head unit.
Notice the RCA cables... all nicely run now and cable tied in place.... bugger
New Koni shocks installed & Fuel Tank - must be done as assess is needed from inside the rear cabin.
Fuel tank has been sprayed with a protective coating in side the tank to stop rust. Tank lifted in to place no problem. I was surprised i was able to install this on my own.
Make sure to block the fuel neck entrance from crap when installing.
Nearly there... Not shown is new underlay matt - same as the rest of the car. had to trim it in places to fit the boot T top molds / mounts in place as they were very tight. Boot is lined also.
Fuel pump is a couple of years old, was replaced about 5000 miles ago. was working fine. So I have not replaced it. Fingers crossed.
Job done... I know the debate about cutting holes, while this car is very straight, its been converted to right hand drive. Nothing is actually original.
And I actually think this should have been done as standard.
On to the front doors, remove the screws and lift the door cards, came off easy.
These speakers are two way - so I need to fit the tweeters... more on that soon.
Original speakers - now to see if the new CRT speakers will fit.
Need to install sound deadening and acoustic mat - have done the whole inside of the door - both sides.
Plan is to use the original door speaker mounts....
Remove the Bose speaker
Needed to drill new holes, and bolt the CRT speaker in place - the original holes are half a hole out.
CRT speakers fit nicely - actually - perfectly - thank you speaker gods.
Added - new M5 threaded inserts in to the doors - so the original speaker mounts are more secure - worked very well.
New wiring run though the door hinge - this was an area I was thinking would be a major problem, new cars have a plug in the hinge and it is very difficult to run new wires... or almost impossible. BUT these were easy to thread through the rubber boot. i used a 6mm pneumatic air line - taped the wires to it and pulled them through.
Front Speakers are Model : HD - 62K8PHR
6.7" Cast Kevlar mid woofer
U-500 2 way woofer / wideband xover
Unity 8.0 2" widesband mid tweeter
250 watts RMS
4ohms
See the problem - these are serious speakers... and I do not have an AMP that will give do the justice...
Rear speakers are CRT - HD-6EiX
Tweeters are in the door, the sound system is installed, but not tested.
Doors are lined with sound deadening and acoustic layer.
NO idea if it will make any difference.
I like the way the head unit has worked out.
The Alpine UTX-A09 Pro - main unit is in the glove box, and the display has been put in the tape holder.
Microphone installed for phone. Working out the best place for the tweeter. iy need to clear all the clips and stuff... it was a bit of luck involved, after picking the spot. New Speaker... Old speaker Doors are going back on...
Never done a stereo install before so this is my first time. What a process... buy 10 things - use one. OMG what a nightmare
Running wiring for the tweeters...
Vapor barrier back on...
4AWG - wire - might be slightly under sized now the amp count has gone from 1 to 3... Chat GPT - calculated that the 4AWG will be fine under normal working conditions, and lets face it Im old and not going to be thrashing this that much...
[img alt="Yep i know.... but what a great spot.
I know... but it perfect."]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/20260115_180917_bc0b57103ef83365f2dd2c6ee3ff5f5b11 3ed327.jpg[/img]
Yep i know.... but what a great spot. I know... but it perfect.
waiting on the DSP.. before I can do the install... The connection from Alpine head unit to DSP is optical - so that eliminates noise. The DSP earth is on the opposite side - rear seat belt bolt - nice an quiet - no major draw on that side.
I know.... but it hidden and never seen and never going to fail... QUESTION... should I have used a star washer to bit in to the brackets ever though i have sanded everything for MAX contact.
[img alt="This is a LP-1 - thing......
DSP → LP-1 → Capacitor → WS-100i
As the DSP is only 8 channel - I am running the upstage small tweeters and the main door tweeters from the same DSP channel - the LP-1 is used to change the volume of the Upstage tweeters mounted at the top corners of the windscreen "]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/20260128_192530_copy_b44b16ad166d0b6b21099df91bcf7 6fef203d65f.jpg[/img]
This is a LP-1 - thing...... DSP → LP-1 → Capacitor → WS-100i As the DSP is only 8 channel - I am running the upstage small tweeters and the main door tweeters from the same DSP channel - the LP-1 is used to change the volume of the Upstage tweeters mounted at the top corners of the windscreen
slowly - waiting for DSP... need to save some $$$
wires - wires... Oh and the sub.. all installed.
Inside looking nice
Doors finished
New Alpine display is not in your face, still have the BOSE tape deck.. and if I select AUX on the Alpine the BOSE will play though the Alpine... now thats cool
[img alt="LP-1 - I need a 4.7uf Cap to filter the lows from the upstage tweeters in the windscreen corners... still installing these..
DSP - LP-1 volume control - Clarity Cap filter 4.7uf - WS100i tweeter"]https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/2000x2000/20260128_192530_copy_5911a0fccb9d93319221e574c700f 419e2c1c171.jpg[/img]
LP-1 - I need a 4.7uf Cap to filter the lows from the upstage tweeters in the windscreen corners... still installing these.. DSP - LP-1 volume control - Clarity Cap filter 4.7uf - WS100i tweeter
Back on the Camaro -
Yea - it all got a bit out of hand. I will say if I started again I would have done more research.. not worked it out as I went.
The amount of extra bits like fuses and **** I purchased and did not use as things changed.
I had to order extra cable... wire ... everyting. How did this happen.
There is one major bonus doing it this way... The wife has no idea what this cost.
And it adds up fast..! She thinks 1-2K and that NZ dollars so $600 - $1200 USD lol
I have everything working, starting to tune the DSP.. need a microphone.
To add - it does sound good, the head unit works in IPOD mode when plugged in and is full HD sound.
Working on the ABS board that I will mount everything on to.
Question... would this be usable?
There is a slight groove from the seal lip.
I want to change the seal etc.. lots of leaks and while I am there....
I did read there is such thing as a seal that the lip is in a differnt spot, like further back or somthing?
So the seal lip runs on a clean part of the shaft?
any idea?
Nice work. You'll thank yourself for that material you put in the door. It helps a tremendous amount. I put it in one of my cars and what a difference it makes. Awesome job.
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