ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I would make sure you have all the air out of the system first, this can take some time, then if that doesn't work, take the heidts flow valve out. You only really need to reduce the flow volume on a rack and pinion, so with a box I would think the factory pump would be fine. If you do need to cut it down, you can change the flow control valve. Ive been running an F body pump and hydroboost with a mustang II rack for years and works fine.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

My thoughts are that with normal practice, the pump pressure is reduced for rack and pinion. My fear is that the steering box requires the higher pressure and the ls1 pump isn't high enough for both the box and the HB, as the ls1 pump is originally for a rack and not a box, or maybe the volume is too low also. Wondering if I could increase the output pressure of the pump.

I changed the routing of the valve to be between the HB and the steering box. That way, whatever reduction in pressure I do end up putting in is in the steering effort alone and not to the booster.

Anyone have a reliable source for how to bleed this whole system? I've seen a few different variations; some running the car, and some without.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

If you think the box needs more pressure than the pump can supply, then why are you using a reducer at all? That said, GM has used the same pump for years and on many different applications, some of which are gear boxes and not racks. Early S-10 had a box with that same pump, only the flow control valve was different. Adding a hydroboost doesnt affect anything, it wont cut down the pressure to the box at all. I was actually hoping it would on mine , but made no change in steering effort. Most of these typeII pumps have about a 2-3 gpm flow control valve, I'm running a smaller one that I believe is a 1.5gpm valve and everything works good.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, that's helpful for the comparison. I'm running the flow control valve because when I was running the hydroboost Saginaw pump originally on my lq4, the steering seemed way too easy for the quick ratio (personal preference). So I was hoping to trim off just a hair of assist to make the steering effort more firm for cruising.
I think I may just simply not have bled the system enough.
My main issue I think was that when the pedal was pressed I lost assist. So I'm hoping to understand/diagnose this symptom.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

I've got my system back up and running.
Ls1 pump - hydroboost - pressure reducing valve(no reduction yet) - quick ratio box - reservoir - back to pump.

Right now this is my issue:
I can rev up the engine to about 2000rpm and have good brakes and good steering assist. When the brakes are pressed and I'm turning the wheel, the steering assist just drops off. As soon as the pedal is released, the steering assist comes back and I can basically pulse this same rhythm on command.

When I had the Saginaw pump, the system worked perfectly. Of course, it was a pump designed for hydroboost and the only thing that should affect this system that I've changed is the pump, to a Camero type II pump.
Is this a problem of not enough volume, where I could just drill out a fitting on the pump?
Or, is it possible that my hydroboost or pump is bad? Both are rebuilt units from the parts store.

superdave84

Did you bleed the system after install? You need to get every bubble out of the system or you are going to feel some slop either in braking or steering. Even if bled perfectly, you may still notice a slight feeling in your steering wheel when you hit the brakes turning (like while parking). Eventually this will work itself out though, but it may take a few hundred miles of driving.

Also, if you are running the return line to a T-fitting, you want the T to be as close to the reservoir as you can get it.

I am running a stock LS2 (GTO) pump with no problems at all.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

No T-fitting. I'm running both returns separately to a remote reservoir.
I think I bled the system... I primed the system by cranking the engine, then bled the hydroboost by depleting the pressure in the accumulator. Then reprimed the system, Raised the wheels and turned them several times lock to lock and checked the fluid constantly.
I did take the car around the block yesterday and didn't really notice any issues, except when I tried to 3-point turn. The steering assist just stopped when I needed to control the brakes simultaneously. I'll see if it works itself out. Maybe I'll keep trying to bleed the steering box and keep driving it.

superdave84

Try this....

Raise the front as you did before, bring RPMs up to 2000 or so, and then steer lock to lock. You will need to steer lock to lock 30+ times

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

Alright. I may have only done it ~5 times.

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

I want to bring this back up...I am having the EXACT same issues and I have bled the hell outta my system, shimmed the hell outta the pressure valve, changed to a restrictive outlet fitting, drilled it out, et.

I still loose steering when I hit the brakes AND my steering is too touchy. When I drive and just touch the brakes, it almost locks up. No clue what to do...might just pull that hydroboost off and go manual brakes....need some help if possible...at my wits end

dan96z71

What size master cylinder are you using?

Chicago TDP

iTrader: (3)

I have a 1 or 1 1/8.

dan96z71

I was told to use a 1 1/8 if I was going to use hydroboost.

Have you tried taking all the restrictions out and seeing how it drives that way, then building or changing from that point? Or have you already started from there and worked your way to these drilled out fitting and restrictions?

Also how do you have it plumbed? Are you using a T fitting or another port on the reservoir?

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

I may switch over to a 1" master cylinder in hopes that I get more pedal travel. Having so much assist in a short pedal is almost too touchy.

I'm running a 1977 Corvette Disc/Disc master

JIMB

iTrader: (2)

I had hydro boosts in my 66 stang and 67 Nova.

That was my only complaint it was a bit over assisted. With C5 brakes all around on both cars if you hit the brakes even somewhat hard it would put your nose up against the wind shield.

I did have to add a remote reservoir with a filter to get out the "micro bubbles". This was on advice from Paul at Hydro Tech.

ryanleiker

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't mind putting on a filter and a cooler... but I want one that has AN fittings on it... know of any filters and coolers with "non-clamp" ends?
Also, would the cooler and filter be placed in the return line, pre-reservoir?

JIMB

iTrader: (2)

I used -6 on all the lines. I don't recall the brand of reservoir. I'd go on Speedway or Summits web site to look just make sure it has a filter some don't