usc2001gc

iTrader: (1)

Anyone using one of these. It appears the front of the pan is notched to help with the tie rod contact issues. Hate that it runs the remote filter, but still looks promising for my LS2 into 71 Chevelle swap. http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm

buddyholly

I have searched about this one and found nothing yet. I like the cutouts...the tie rod issue worries me more than hitting the crossmember with ls1 pans. I am considering notching my crossmember to use a ls1 pan since it seems to have the least height in the front and less tie rod contact problems than anything else. Not sure I like the remote filter but it could be a plus...

cutlass_455

iTrader: (2)

I like the notches for the crossmember clearance as well. In a G body, they arent REQUIRED for the install, but would help getting the motor to its final place, but once already there, they would make no difference. Also the remote filter sucks, I have the Milodon pan and I dont like how you have to plumb it.

Go with the Autokraft kit, its killer, and a good price too.

Schwanke Engines

iTrader: (1)

We are the ones who had these pans made by Kevin. We use Kevko pans on everything we build. We can get these for you, probably at a little better price even.
We have a complete remote mount kit already put together as well. Give me a call if you are interested.

buddyholly

I think there are a bunch of us who would like more info on this pan. What kinda baffling? Do you have any pictures of one installed? And how much for the entire kit? Thanks for the info!

71 chevy

iTrader: (18)

it seems to be more expensive than the other pans. why?

Schwanke Engines

iTrader: (1)

Well, I don't have a car here right now that I can take pics of, I could take some of the pan though. The baffles are made like little trap doors that open and close based on the direction of the oil flow. The doors make sure the oil stays right in the pickup as much as possible.
I would say a complete setup, which would include the pan, pickup, and full remote filter kit would be around $500.

Steve88

iTrader: (5)

I have the AutoKraft/Champ sheetmetal pan on my 67 Firebird and it fit great with plenty of room to spare and uses a factory style spin oil filter. It has 4 trap doors inside the sump to control the oil they have been used on drag cars and road race cars and worked well for both.

buddyholly

Please post some good pictures of the pan. I think some people are pretty happy with the AutoKraft pan but some are having tie rod interferance problems with pretty much every pan. Sounds like your pan may be a nice option. Plus it needs to be added to the oil pan sticky at the top of this forum.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-oil-pans.html

Gary U

iTrader: (1)

I saw this post on Sunday night and called Kevin @ Kevco on Monday. My pan arrived today (Thursday). I wanted aluminum and don't like the idea of a remote filter, but this pan seemed to be the best for my priorities.

Based on the trial fitting I did on my car with the OE pan I was sure that the Autokraft would not clear without raising the engine - which is 100% unacceptable to me. The drivers side tie rod on my car cleared the OE truck pan (2008 LY6) with slight room to spare. On the passenger side there was pretty significant interference. I *think* the notches in the Kevko pan should work. I'll set the engine in this weekend with this pan and find out.

For those that asked, the baffling is nothing exotic in this pan. Just a couple of trap doors at the forward part of the sump. Should be perfectly fine for my use.

buddyholly

Nice timing, getting the pan in. Please keep us informed on how it fits. I agree, any tie rod contact is unacceptable, especially for my purpose where I drive the car 15,000 miles a year. On my longer 4 door I need all the turning I can muster and it wouldn't take me too long to wear through the pan.

usc2001gc

iTrader: (1)

Glad to finally see some replies on my post. I was beginning to think no one was going to reply.

Another thought, that I had about the tie rod contact, was to use a different gearbox that didn't has a much travel. On my Chevelle I was planning to install a Grand Cherokee gearbox (has about the same travel as original, with a new car feel), but if tie rod contact is going to be an issue, I may install one with less travel. See this link for spec's from different gearboxs. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref29.html

Gary U

iTrader: (1)

Just a quick update. I installed the pan and set the engine in. Everything clears fine. The crossmember is lower than the sump and there is ample clearance to the front of the sump. Most importantly (to me) is that the tie rods and centerlink all clear both ways. I set the engine in "worst case" at basically 0-0.5* down and there was still plenty of clearance. The final engine angle (2-3*?) will increase clearance a bit more.

The downside for me was that the pan I bought had been sitting around and was messed up behind the trap doors. Kevin seems to be a stand up guy and is going to fab up a new one for me.

Gary

Schwanke Engines

iTrader: (1)

I think we had that pan made so it would fit with the engine down 1/2 inch from stock.
Question, and you can PM me if you would like, what will you have total into the pan setup? I would like to know just to see if my pricing is in the ballpark. I believe it is, but it is always nice to know.

LS2GS

Old thread, I know but for those of you that are using the Kevco oil pan, how do you like it? What remote oil filter set up are you using? What windage tray, dipstick are you guys using? I have a ls2 out of a gto so I need a new dipstick and windage tray I assume. Thanks for the advice in advance!