70cartruck

iTrader: (1)

What are you guys doing for plumbing your fuel lines......especially with the c5 corvette fuel filter regulator combo...Ive seen aeromotive sells the special connection for the f body fuel rail....its $30 dollars though....any cheaper methods....?

Pictures would help....

thanks

12thstreetjunkman

iTrader: (16)

I used dorman hard plastic lines and fitting on the last one it did. Kind of a pita to get the fittings on, but I think about the cheapest route you can go.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/11525505-post64.html

or go with the dorman setup - it's much cheaper. russell fittings were 1/3-1/2 the aeromotives. dorman PNs are in the FAQ sticky at the top.

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

I used the plastic lines and dorman ends as well.. Easy to route plus the benefit of quick connect\disconnect..

The hard line in the picture is the stock vapor line that I decided to use.

It helps if you have the tool that installs the ends on as this made it very easy.... Otherwise, as said above, its a bitch..

I was lucky enough to have a neighbor that already had the kit and was willing to lend to me..

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

Forgot to mention...

For this I had to have the correct flare on the supply and return lines.

For this I used a flaring tool kit ( the one pictured wasnt cheap as it was made to handle stainless).. You would have to do the same or find some way to adapt to whatever exists..

70cartruck

iTrader: (1)

this may sound stupid but im a little confused.....

The side of the fuel filter that has the special fuel fitting labeled "outlet" feeds the motor?.......then witch one of the smaller nipple connections is the return and witch one is the feed.....one has an orange cover and the other is red....do you have to flare those nipple ends....cant see using just a regular piece of rubber hose with a hose clamp on it would hold 60 psi......

sorry

thanks

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

The side of the regulator\filter with two fittings ( one is 5/16, which is the return to the tank, and the larger, 3/8, is the Fuel feed from the pump\tank) already has the correct flares for the quick connect fittings I had posted.

The other side of the regulator\filter is the fuel out to motor which is a 3/8 female for which you will need to buy a dorman adaptor like the one pictured below.

The flaring that I mentioned may be necessary, as was for me, on the fuel pump sending unit in my tank so that I could have the same style connectors from the tank to the filter\regulator.

12thstreetjunkman

iTrader: (16)

2aspire did you find a tool available seperate or did you buy/have the master repair kit that has it. I would like to pick one up as it looks like this is the method I'll be using from here on out after messing with the hard plastic line, but don't see the end installer tool for sale by itself. Thanks

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

I was lucky enough to have a nice neighbor bum me the kit.. However.. his kit was shy the ends I needed.. Thats why I ordered the ends ( five of each 3/8 and 5/16)

Here is a link to the tool itself.. Its $87.00 + shipping.. As compared to the kit which is $195.00

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pm-4...t-800-301.aspx

Still kind of expensive if your looking to save some money and not doing auto repair or auto swaps that would benefit from the tool or kit...

12thstreetjunkman

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the part number, I could never find it a couple months ago. I would have gladly split it with a buddy before we did our cars. Going to put it on the list. BTW, If the original poster is going this route, without the tool here is a helpful tip. I know boiling water is boiling water, but we tried for an hour using the electric stove and could never get even 1 end on. I fired up the side burner on the bbq grill, got the water boiling good and made 3 lines in about 30 minutes. I don't know what the deal is but the grill seems to boil the water "hotter"

69chvelle

iTrader: (11)

Anybody know if that is a custom piece in his second picture of this post that is coming out of the single side(left) of the filter/regulator to the fuel rail? Or there a part # for it? I need a piece like that.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

PM'd ya back 'velle. Russell PN 640940.

Danno74Z

I went this route on the filter. Used the 12" Dorman part 800058 from Midway and cut it down for my needs. http://www.midwayautosupply.com/m-11...aspx?pagenum=3 and compression fittings from Swagelok with the male AN ends - works perfect! These type fittings can hold up to 3000PSI when used correctly so I think 60PSI won't be an issue. I bought the black AN fittings from Jegs.

70cartruck

iTrader: (1)

i didn't know you could just use regular rubber fuel line with hose clamps...?

2Aspire

iTrader: (4)

Thats a high pressure rated hose for fuel injection.. They also have fuel injection hose, such as the small piece that connects the fuel pump to the sending unit, thats made to handle being submersed in gas..

Looks like the ends he has are barbed AN ends that are pushed on the hose side and then for extra measure secured with clamps..

Steve VanS

iTrader: (1)

You got to use SAE 30R9 Fuel Injection hose, rated at 200psi working pressure if you want to use "rubber" hose for the fuel system. We used the Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 fittings with 30R9 hose on our swap.

hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

fyi - 12+" of rubber hose doesn't fly at the track.

Danno74Z

2ASPIRE is correct on the hose and clamps. Since this is an engine test stand I built, I did not want to build hard lines. On "pressure" side of the pump, I used FI rated hose which is expensive but necessary to be safe. For the return and feed I used low pressure "carb" fuel hose which is 1/5th the cost and does not require the more expensive FI line. I also used a small inline carb filter as a pre-filter going to the pump and it too works perfect and is low cost. The clamps are not necessary but since I had them I used them for safe measure. The only fuel leak I had in this system (which was my fault) was the at the fuel pressure gauge on the rail. I removed the schrader valve and installed a FP gauge and forgot to fully tighten some of the plumbing.

Danno74z

70cartruck

iTrader: (1)

Danna74z......sorry could you please post the part numbers for the swagelok and dorman fittings....just want to buy the right stuff....

thanks...

mxman

iTrader: (1)

barbs and clamps aren't nhra approved as of 2010 just so everyone knows