y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I just purchased some aluminum fuel line from Jegs, and didn't realize it was only rated for 25 psi until it arrived. I had no idea that I would run into this problem. I purchased the aluminum because I thought it would be easier to work with and non-corrosive. I really don't want to use braided line mainly as a cost factor.

I've seen many different fuel line offerings on the web, and some have psi ratings and others don't. Since the fuel pressure is 55 psi on the LS motors, I was wondering if there are any alternatives.

I'm scared to death to even try using the Jegs fuel line since I've had an engine fire before on my '00 'bird because the line I used was rated at only 50 psi, and that couldn't survive the 55 psi from the fuel system.

What is everyone using on their conversions?

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

If its rated for 25 psi, I would air to the side of safety, and not try and use the aluminum. Guess you could call Jeg's and ask them if they sell something else, you could use. Maybe get a credit that way. Send the aluminum back with a note in it, referencing your new purchase. I hate it when I waste money on stuff I will never use, lol.

john 67

I tried the aluminum route and through it all in the garbich. I made a template with some copper tubing and sent it to inline tube to make it with stainless with tube nuts and flares at the ends , then i converted to flex at both ends , or you can thake a measurement and have them make it . JOHN

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

I used push lock hose and fittings so I didn't have to worry about bending hard line. I bought it from Summit.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

Thanks for the replys fellas! I believe I found what I need. This is rated at 250 psi, is 10 feet longer, and is the same price as the Jegs line:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumin...Line,1633.html

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I think I'll keep the aluminum line and run some wiring through it that I currently just have in convoluted tubing. Wiring for the alternator shutdown, fuel level sender & fuel pump switch.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I did that for my return line, but then saw where it's not to be used for fuel....at least the Jegs version. I'm starting to see a trend here with my problems....

Kenova

iTrader: (4)

When you get the Speedway line let us know how it compares to the other "stuff".
I'll take a wild assed guess and say the walls are a little thicker, which could mean you have to step up one size when you buy the fittings. Again, I'm just guessing here.

Ken

Dustin@PremierAutosports

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure if you got something different, but i've used aluminum hard line on tons of cars, with no problems what so ever. We just used the Summit brand tubing.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

No problem will do!

Well the Summit and Jegs brand are the same wall thickness. Heck, they're probably both made by the same manufacturer. I didn't see anything on the Summit Brand providing a psi rating. The Jegs psi rating is of course 25 psi. The Speedway Motors brand doesn't list a wall thickness, but does list the 250 psi rating.

If you're not experiencing any problems on your race car with the Summit Brand, then I shouldn't have any issues with the Jegs brand. I just had that car fire back in 2007 that set me back a year with electrical gremlins on my '00 'bird. I just don't wanna relive that with the '95 'bird.

55chevy

iTrader: (6)

I also used the Summit brand and have not had any problems with it. Knowing the aluminum was a soft metal, I found a plastic tubing or hose that just fit over it and covered it for the under car run. I then used clamps with rubber to attach it to the frame rail.

Good luck!

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

I wanted to use similar aluminum line, but I thought I remembered reading in one of Carroll Smiths books that this was a no-no.. Something along the lines of aluminum being prone to metal fatigue and cracking in a vibrating environment. Of course that's racecar stuff, but better safe than sorry. I'd go stainless, but its a pain the ***, or maybe just use the copper? Could always just use the standard coated steel lines I guess.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

I have heard the aluminum is prone to metal fatigue if it is flexed repeatedly, so the trick it to make sure it is properly supported and isn't allowed to flex.

The tubing size is specified as outside diameter, so thicker walls means a smaller inner diameters.

I used the 90-10 copper nickel tubing for both my fuel and brake lines. Probably not worth the added expense, but that stuff is a dream to work with. You'll never have to worry about fatique or corrosion either.

Stainless can be a bitch to work with, especially if you don't have very high quality tools. I have known several guys who started out using stainless only to bag it and go with the aluminum.

spartanv8

iTrader: (4)

Agreed. Copper nickel is the ticket, and should be well supported, just like any brake or fuel line should.. I think Mr. Smith recommended every foot or so.
Also, aren't there a lot of rules out t here regarding how long a hose run (rubber, braided, whatever) can be, like 10" or so? I dunno if that was NHRA, SCCA, or what.. My point being, most of the run should be hard line, not hose.

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

I have a 2' section of braided line running from the fuel rail on the engine to the fuel pressure regulator that I mounted behind the driver's-side headlight. I plan to run hard line from the regulator to the fuel cell.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Call Jeg's and check, I'll bet they inadvertently dropped a "0" and it's really 250#. Proof-reading a 300 page catalog is not foolproof!

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

The only problem with Push-Lok hose(and push-Lok fittings), is that it is not J-1527 Alcohol Rated hose. From a legality standpoint, you don't want to use it/them, in a customers car or boat, etc. That being said, I use it all the time on my personal vehicles/boats, as it is pressure rated for EFI applications. I use Eaton-Aero-Quip products.

chevellepowered

iTrader: (37)

i have that same kit from jegs,, i was using for my carb bbc, then converted it to efi twin 255lphs. i didnt relize it was rated at 22 psi or what ever it is, i ran 80 psi fine with no problems. turbo setup.. , im still using it now, but im converting lsx to a carb, i ran it fine no problems at 80 psi

y2k_ta

iTrader: (80)

The Speedway Motors line is due to arrive tomorrow. I am going to use the Jegs line to make a template for the lines. That way I can bend it all I want, and then use the good stuff to make the final line.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

If you want to know for sure how much the .035 tube is rated for, look at table # 6 in this link.
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we.../MS-01-107.PDF