Project Hellraiser: 1988 RX-7, LS1-T56
10-26-2009, 01:46 PM
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Staging Lane
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Project Hellraiser: 1988 RX-7, LS1-T56 Ressurection the old thread with pictures and updates!
A few months ago I went out in search of an LS1. I ended up going through https://ls1tech.com and posted a WTB thread. I had a few hits and finally a dude in Nebraska named Andrew had a pullout ready for me. We talked and I decided I wanted the 01 pullout was going to be just fine. But before I sent payment it was purchased. Since Andrew did pullouts on the side, he told me he could get another at the price we already had settled on with the last motor. A few weeks later he purchased a 02 Trans Am with 31K with slight rear end damage. I told him I wanted it and before I knew it, I sent $2,000 for payment (to help to buy the car) and after it was pulled, I sent $2,700 to him and two weeks later I received a large package.
It's a 02 LS1-T56 pullout out of a WS6. I wanted it 100% stock and it's what I got, couldn't be any happier. With the 2002 motor and it being out of a WS6, I got a Hurst shifter, less restrictive exhaust manifolds, LS6 intake, Ls6 clutch and a few other things. So far I'm only keeping is the Hurst, intake manifold, and clutch, the rest will be ditched for better parts.
I was going to take on the swap at my house with help from a friend, but I didn't have a real garage to use. I didn't have a lot of the tools needed, and I wanted it done a way I really don't believe I could do. It's one thing to swap a motor, but there is a lot of custom work with this swap that I didn't feel comfortable with. So I ended up talking a lot with Brandon B, a young man who is out to start his RX-7 swap business. He has over 10 V8 swaps under his belt and personally owns this:
http://whodyautomotive.com/conversio...ion1%20014.jpg
His clean work and reputation as a good guy had me sold. He also could answer any question I had and was just top notch; he even works at Speedway in Nebraska, a company that ships hundreds of aftermarket parts a day. Plus, he could get me some deals on things such as an aluminum radiator and McLeod parts.
A month ago or so, Brandon and his friend Ross drove from Lincoln Nebraska to Bemidji to come pick up my car, motor, two rear ends, multiple little things such as a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump and a manual rack.
I chatted with them for a bit and they drove 10 hours straight back to Nebraska. Driving 20 hours in 24 hours is crazy, but I figured it was cheaper then shipping (Sorry Alex and Steve, didn’t think you’d be interested, I didn’t want to try and take advantage of it either).
Due to Brandon and Ross having a lot of stuff to finish, the car sat in their shop before this weekend, then progess!!:
There is my trusted rotary after the abortion. It had 138K and ran tip top even with me taking care of it since I was 18. I loved that motor and I’ll miss it, but obviously bigger and better things are coming
. Also, the green bucket is full of all the fluids in the car. Oil sat in the motor all winter 
.
So far the parts that are there are:
My pullout
My TII rear differental (it's a 8" instead of a 7", stronger in everyway).
My manual rack (which I bought 3 years ago, kept it just in case I did an V8 swap
.
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, bought 2 years ago when I was going turbo in the RX-7.
All pictures can be viewed: http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...08%20LS1-Swap/
A few months ago I went out in search of an LS1. I ended up going through https://ls1tech.com and posted a WTB thread. I had a few hits and finally a dude in Nebraska named Andrew had a pullout ready for me. We talked and I decided I wanted the 01 pullout was going to be just fine. But before I sent payment it was purchased. Since Andrew did pullouts on the side, he told me he could get another at the price we already had settled on with the last motor. A few weeks later he purchased a 02 Trans Am with 31K with slight rear end damage. I told him I wanted it and before I knew it, I sent $2,000 for payment (to help to buy the car) and after it was pulled, I sent $2,700 to him and two weeks later I received a large package.
It's a 02 LS1-T56 pullout out of a WS6. I wanted it 100% stock and it's what I got, couldn't be any happier. With the 2002 motor and it being out of a WS6, I got a Hurst shifter, less restrictive exhaust manifolds, LS6 intake, Ls6 clutch and a few other things. So far I'm only keeping is the Hurst, intake manifold, and clutch, the rest will be ditched for better parts.
I was going to take on the swap at my house with help from a friend, but I didn't have a real garage to use. I didn't have a lot of the tools needed, and I wanted it done a way I really don't believe I could do. It's one thing to swap a motor, but there is a lot of custom work with this swap that I didn't feel comfortable with. So I ended up talking a lot with Brandon B, a young man who is out to start his RX-7 swap business. He has over 10 V8 swaps under his belt and personally owns this:
http://whodyautomotive.com/conversio...ion1%20014.jpg
His clean work and reputation as a good guy had me sold. He also could answer any question I had and was just top notch; he even works at Speedway in Nebraska, a company that ships hundreds of aftermarket parts a day. Plus, he could get me some deals on things such as an aluminum radiator and McLeod parts.
A month ago or so, Brandon and his friend Ross drove from Lincoln Nebraska to Bemidji to come pick up my car, motor, two rear ends, multiple little things such as a Walbro 255LPH fuel pump and a manual rack.
I chatted with them for a bit and they drove 10 hours straight back to Nebraska. Driving 20 hours in 24 hours is crazy, but I figured it was cheaper then shipping (Sorry Alex and Steve, didn’t think you’d be interested, I didn’t want to try and take advantage of it either).
Due to Brandon and Ross having a lot of stuff to finish, the car sat in their shop before this weekend, then progess!!:
There is my trusted rotary after the abortion. It had 138K and ran tip top even with me taking care of it since I was 18. I loved that motor and I’ll miss it, but obviously bigger and better things are coming
. Also, the green bucket is full of all the fluids in the car. Oil sat in the motor all winter .So far the parts that are there are:
My pullout
My TII rear differental (it's a 8" instead of a 7", stronger in everyway).
My manual rack (which I bought 3 years ago, kept it just in case I did an V8 swap
.Walbro 255LPH fuel pump, bought 2 years ago when I was going turbo in the RX-7.
All pictures can be viewed: http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/g...08%20LS1-Swap/
10-26-2009, 01:46 PM
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Today I called: http://www.performancepeddler.com/ is who I used to order all my parts, they where highly recommended and had great prices. If you call them they go even cheaper then advertised on eBay and have free shipping. I honestly can't say anything but fantastic things about Performance Peddler.
I ordered all Magnaflow parts and got:
2.5" in/out x-pipe = part #10791
2.5" in/out mufflers, 7" round = part #14716 (two of them)
4" tips = part #35136 (two)
The 7" round mufflers I chose because others have used it and had them fit well, look good, and muffle pretty well when off the throttle. On the throttle it's supposed to be nuts, but that's fine.
Here is a picture of a FC with the same exhaust (rear portion anyways) and how it will show how it'll look on mine. Thanks NoRotor88 (off the RX7v8forum).
I ordered all Magnaflow parts and got:
2.5" in/out x-pipe = part #10791
2.5" in/out mufflers, 7" round = part #14716 (two of them)
4" tips = part #35136 (two)
The 7" round mufflers I chose because others have used it and had them fit well, look good, and muffle pretty well when off the throttle. On the throttle it's supposed to be nuts, but that's fine.
Here is a picture of a FC with the same exhaust (rear portion anyways) and how it will show how it'll look on mine. Thanks NoRotor88 (off the RX7v8forum).
10-26-2009, 01:47 PM
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Just finished up placing an order with JTR (http://www.jagsthatrun.com). They do sell parts for V8 swaps in alot of cars and take your time to visit their site. Lots of cool **** and stuff that makes me want to buy an older Datsun.
I went with the JTR headers for a few reasons. First, noone else makes full length swap headers. The other options are doing the "poorboy" header, which is a BBK 5.0 header with a LS1 exhaust flange welded on and the 5.0 one cut off. Hinson supercars sell one, but it's for the FD and fits like **** on the FC, and is a mid-length header. The JTR headers are actually made for an FD (93-95 RX-7) and just happen to fit with a FC. Bonus for me!
Second, the JTR's are made by Sanderson. They have very thick flanges and have nice quality to them. They also look cool. The JTR's even come with v-bands for a quick disconnect. Finally, they fit with minor "massaging" of the firewall.
Oh, and of course they are a major upgrade from the stock manifolds.
I purchased the headers with 1 3/4" primaries and ceramic coating, part #RX7-404C. They ran me $885 shipped which about the norm compared to top-end F-body headers like Kooks, QTP's, etc. The 1 3/4 primaries are the smaller of the two that is offered but I never plan to go over 347 CI and motor won't be as "built" as others. So the 1 3/4 will be just fine for my application.
So looks like most of my exhaust has been buttoned up so now it's onto some interior stuff.
I went with the JTR headers for a few reasons. First, noone else makes full length swap headers. The other options are doing the "poorboy" header, which is a BBK 5.0 header with a LS1 exhaust flange welded on and the 5.0 one cut off. Hinson supercars sell one, but it's for the FD and fits like **** on the FC, and is a mid-length header. The JTR headers are actually made for an FD (93-95 RX-7) and just happen to fit with a FC. Bonus for me!
Second, the JTR's are made by Sanderson. They have very thick flanges and have nice quality to them. They also look cool. The JTR's even come with v-bands for a quick disconnect. Finally, they fit with minor "massaging" of the firewall.
Oh, and of course they are a major upgrade from the stock manifolds.
I purchased the headers with 1 3/4" primaries and ceramic coating, part #RX7-404C. They ran me $885 shipped which about the norm compared to top-end F-body headers like Kooks, QTP's, etc. The 1 3/4 primaries are the smaller of the two that is offered but I never plan to go over 347 CI and motor won't be as "built" as others. So the 1 3/4 will be just fine for my application.
So looks like most of my exhaust has been buttoned up so now it's onto some interior stuff.
10-26-2009, 01:47 PM
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Today I went over to Wake Performance, https://wakeperformance.com/, which is an aftermarket store for Mustangs and other Fords. I went there to buy a Steeda Tri-Axe shifter handle. Why would I buy a Mustang shifter for a GM transmission in a Mazda car? I'll tell you.
Mustangs traditionally have a "dog-leg" shifter. Like seen here:
With the LS1-T56 in the RX-7, the shifter sits towards the front of the stock shifter hole. But in 1,3,5, it tends to get near the CD player. The shifter is also long and it'll be frankly annoying. A short stick can be used to get rid of the length, but the shifter is still sitting too far forward.
So the trick is to buy a "dog-leg" shifter that'll put the **** back in the center of the shifter hole, it also takes down the length. So after installation it sits just like the factory Mazda shifter. The nice thing is the Steeda Tri-Axe bolts to the stock base, so I can keep my hurst shifter, and it also bolts onto any aftermarket shifter. The Steeda Tri-Axe shifter handle is also a bargain at $29.95.
While I was at the website I also picked up a Ford Racing Cobra shift ****:
It screws right onto the Steeda handle and costs about $29.00.
Part numbers ordered where:
Cobra Shift ****: #M-7213-B
Steeda Tri-Axe shifter handle: #555-7153
Now that my shifter assembly is taken care of I can move forward!
Mustangs traditionally have a "dog-leg" shifter. Like seen here:
With the LS1-T56 in the RX-7, the shifter sits towards the front of the stock shifter hole. But in 1,3,5, it tends to get near the CD player. The shifter is also long and it'll be frankly annoying. A short stick can be used to get rid of the length, but the shifter is still sitting too far forward.
So the trick is to buy a "dog-leg" shifter that'll put the **** back in the center of the shifter hole, it also takes down the length. So after installation it sits just like the factory Mazda shifter. The nice thing is the Steeda Tri-Axe bolts to the stock base, so I can keep my hurst shifter, and it also bolts onto any aftermarket shifter. The Steeda Tri-Axe shifter handle is also a bargain at $29.95.
While I was at the website I also picked up a Ford Racing Cobra shift ****:
It screws right onto the Steeda handle and costs about $29.00.
Part numbers ordered where:
Cobra Shift ****: #M-7213-B
Steeda Tri-Axe shifter handle: #555-7153
Now that my shifter assembly is taken care of I can move forward!
10-26-2009, 01:47 PM
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I decided to fore go my original idea of a stock instrument cluster due to a few reasons.
First, the Dakota Digital box (http://www.dakotadigital.com) is needed to convert the speedo signal from mechanical (stock Mazda) to electrical (stock T-56). The cost of this comes to about $300 and I still need to buy adapters and to modify the stock F-body/Mazda sensors. Giving myself a slight clusterfunk merging 2002 technology to 1988 tech.
Second, with keep the stock cluster I keep a stock look but I give up some accuracy in readings. Instead of getting 100* to 250* for water temperature, I get a high to low potentiometer looking thing.
So I decided to just go ahead with a full Autometer cluster. They are good, reliable, and the price isn't too shabby. Aluminum will supply the makings of the gauge cluster and I have a custom 3 gauge panel under the CD player. I did choose all electrical gauges to simplify things and make everything like a factory car mostly is.
I also plan to send some red, amber, and two green LED's with so I can have turn signals, a check engine light, and high beam light, making my gauge cluster do everything my stock one did.
I picked the Sport Comp line because it looked like the stock Mazda and kinda plain, which is what I wanted. I've been around the style before and I always liked how easy it was to see too.
I also had to buy a Willroad clutch master cylinder for the clutch hydraulics. The stock Mazda MC doesn't displace enough fluid for the T-56, so using an aftermarket MC is in order. I didn't really want a hacked up/modifed stock F-body either since then I'm still using used parts. And the alternative doesn't cost more then $100. So I bought the 7/8 MC.
A little enlarging in the stock MC location and it nearly fits, other then the holes are in mismatching spots and the MC would sick crooked, forcing me to use the remove resevoirs. The trick to fixing this is to buy the Hinson MC adapter. Just a peice of metal that brings it all up evenly. It also makes the MC easier to bleed and just makes things a little less complicated.
And as always, part numbers.
Autometer Sport Comp part # tach 3991
Autometer Sport Comp part # speedo 3988
Autometer Sport Comp part # oil press 3327
Autometer Sport Comp part # oil temp 3348
Autometer Sport Comp part # volt 3391
Autometer Sport Comp part # fuel level 3315
Autometer Sport Comp part # water temp 3337
Willroad 7/8th MC part # 260-3376
Hinson MC Adapter no part number, just check out https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/show...tch-hydraulics.
First, the Dakota Digital box (http://www.dakotadigital.com) is needed to convert the speedo signal from mechanical (stock Mazda) to electrical (stock T-56). The cost of this comes to about $300 and I still need to buy adapters and to modify the stock F-body/Mazda sensors. Giving myself a slight clusterfunk merging 2002 technology to 1988 tech.
Second, with keep the stock cluster I keep a stock look but I give up some accuracy in readings. Instead of getting 100* to 250* for water temperature, I get a high to low potentiometer looking thing.
So I decided to just go ahead with a full Autometer cluster. They are good, reliable, and the price isn't too shabby. Aluminum will supply the makings of the gauge cluster and I have a custom 3 gauge panel under the CD player. I did choose all electrical gauges to simplify things and make everything like a factory car mostly is.
I also plan to send some red, amber, and two green LED's with so I can have turn signals, a check engine light, and high beam light, making my gauge cluster do everything my stock one did.
I picked the Sport Comp line because it looked like the stock Mazda and kinda plain, which is what I wanted. I've been around the style before and I always liked how easy it was to see too.
I also had to buy a Willroad clutch master cylinder for the clutch hydraulics. The stock Mazda MC doesn't displace enough fluid for the T-56, so using an aftermarket MC is in order. I didn't really want a hacked up/modifed stock F-body either since then I'm still using used parts. And the alternative doesn't cost more then $100. So I bought the 7/8 MC.
A little enlarging in the stock MC location and it nearly fits, other then the holes are in mismatching spots and the MC would sick crooked, forcing me to use the remove resevoirs. The trick to fixing this is to buy the Hinson MC adapter. Just a peice of metal that brings it all up evenly. It also makes the MC easier to bleed and just makes things a little less complicated.
And as always, part numbers.
Autometer Sport Comp part # tach 3991
Autometer Sport Comp part # speedo 3988
Autometer Sport Comp part # oil press 3327
Autometer Sport Comp part # oil temp 3348
Autometer Sport Comp part # volt 3391
Autometer Sport Comp part # fuel level 3315
Autometer Sport Comp part # water temp 3337
Willroad 7/8th MC part # 260-3376
Hinson MC Adapter no part number, just check out https://www.hinsonsupercars.com/show...tch-hydraulics.
10-26-2009, 01:47 PM
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Also, I had lots of problems with the fuel level gauge and trying to find the right one (OHM reading). But I found this information thanks to NoRotor88 of the V8RX7Forum.
According to Grannys site,
The 86-88 RX7 fuel level sender is:
Full=6 ohms
Empty=80 ohms
The fuel gauge is:
Full=7.4 ohms
Empty=74.9 ohms
The gauge I ended up using was AutoMeter Sport Comp part # 3315. It is:
Full=8-12 ohms
Empty=73 ohms
According to Grannys site,
The 86-88 RX7 fuel level sender is:
Full=6 ohms
Empty=80 ohms
The fuel gauge is:
Full=7.4 ohms
Empty=74.9 ohms
The gauge I ended up using was AutoMeter Sport Comp part # 3315. It is:
Full=8-12 ohms
Empty=73 ohms
10-26-2009, 01:47 PM
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But I forgot to order Corvette engine covers with my Summit order, so I went ahead and bought:
Passenger side engine cover part # NAL-12561502
Driver side engine cover part # NAL-12561503
I bought these just the hide the fuel rails, coils, valve covers, and etc. I think they really clean up the engine bay. I know some of you are like "It's not a Corvette!" and I am quite aware of it.
Look nice don't they? The picture is from DigitalSolo at LS1FC.com
Passenger side engine cover part # NAL-12561502
Driver side engine cover part # NAL-12561503
I bought these just the hide the fuel rails, coils, valve covers, and etc. I think they really clean up the engine bay. I know some of you are like "It's not a Corvette!" and I am quite aware of it.
Look nice don't they? The picture is from DigitalSolo at LS1FC.com
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10-26-2009, 01:54 PM
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Got some bad news, but it could be much worse. But I'll start with funny to me.
My gauges came and they wanted to see how hard it was to install 6 of the 7 in the gauge cluster, apparantly 6 can fit. Actually my setup will be just four in the cluster and three under the CD player, somewhat simular to the other picture I showed from norotor88's car.
Now onto the weak **** :-/.
Gotta make two new wires the alternator, not a big deal.
The connector the PCM to the harness was smashed during the pullout (which I knew, but didn't know to what extent). When Brandon removed the PCM plug-in from the PCM this happened.
And no, that purple crimp isn't supposed to be there either. :
This too got cut for some reason.
Some emissions thing smashed.
Some other random pictures. These where taken before they washed the motor. One of the coils got smashed too and now I have to buy another one. I'm just going to get a stocker since I have yet to seen any F-Body run anything but.
None of it is a big deal, it's a pullout, not a new motor, it's all quite okay.
Now onto the good news.
The motor was well taken care of and looks great under the valve covers.
The spark plugs look good too.
And here is a picture of the transmission. It'll be nice with that extra gear. I'm still wondering if I should get the Pro 5.0. It's supposed to be the best shifter I can buy for the car.
A new coil is needed and I needed to track down a new (to the car?) wiring harness. I ended picking it up off a member here in fantastic shape. Couldn't ask for anything more!
My gauges came and they wanted to see how hard it was to install 6 of the 7 in the gauge cluster, apparantly 6 can fit. Actually my setup will be just four in the cluster and three under the CD player, somewhat simular to the other picture I showed from norotor88's car.
Now onto the weak **** :-/.
Gotta make two new wires the alternator, not a big deal.
The connector the PCM to the harness was smashed during the pullout (which I knew, but didn't know to what extent). When Brandon removed the PCM plug-in from the PCM this happened.
And no, that purple crimp isn't supposed to be there either. :
This too got cut for some reason.
Some emissions thing smashed.
Some other random pictures. These where taken before they washed the motor. One of the coils got smashed too and now I have to buy another one. I'm just going to get a stocker since I have yet to seen any F-Body run anything but.
None of it is a big deal, it's a pullout, not a new motor, it's all quite okay.
Now onto the good news.
The motor was well taken care of and looks great under the valve covers.
The spark plugs look good too.
And here is a picture of the transmission. It'll be nice with that extra gear
. I'm still wondering if I should get the Pro 5.0. It's supposed to be the best shifter I can buy for the car.A new coil is needed and I needed to track down a new (to the car?) wiring harness. I ended picking it up off a member here in fantastic shape. Couldn't ask for anything more!
10-26-2009, 01:55 PM
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Optima Red Top Battery-Default Optima Red Top Battery Variant
SKU: RedTop
Ordered from http://www.hinsonsupercars.com.
They also have Optima Red Tops on sale for $105. That's pretty unbeatable!
SKU: RedTop
Ordered from http://www.hinsonsupercars.com.
They also have Optima Red Tops on sale for $105. That's pretty unbeatable!
10-26-2009, 01:55 PM
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Got my amazing harness back from "Danzan" of the V8RX7Forum. Danzan doesn't actually get paid for the great harness work he does. He's retired gentleman and does the harnesses for the V8RX7forum if they donate to the site and to war veterans. I think that alone says alot about the kinda guy he is .
I also picked up a set of 8.5MM MSD Superconductors plug wires and TR55 plugs for the LS1. For $65 shipped it was a deal that I just couldn't pass up and it's some routine maintence getting done. I love group buys.
.I also picked up a set of 8.5MM MSD Superconductors plug wires and TR55 plugs for the LS1. For $65 shipped it was a deal that I just couldn't pass up and it's some routine maintence getting done. I love group buys
.
10-26-2009, 01:56 PM
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I gave Grant at http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/ a call. He said that it would be less then a week to get my parts. So today I called him back and ordered his basic LSX mounting kit.
The kid included a cradle, LS1 adapter plates, transmission mounts and a transmission crossmember. I also added sway bar spacers to my order. To complete my custom driveshaft he also sold me a TII rear flange (actually off a Dodge Ram).
After shipping it came to $566.
He's super patient guy and overall very nice. Plus only had to wait a week for shipping. Everything came as described and I can't help to give him props for a great job and quality product.
The kid included a cradle, LS1 adapter plates, transmission mounts and a transmission crossmember. I also added sway bar spacers to my order. To complete my custom driveshaft he also sold me a TII rear flange (actually off a Dodge Ram).
After shipping it came to $566.
He's super patient guy and overall very nice. Plus only had to wait a week for shipping. Everything came as described and I can't help to give him props for a great job and quality product.
10-26-2009, 01:56 PM
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The C4 driveshaft is 27.5 inches long, you have to use the automatic one for the correct length for Granny's kit on the rear holes (they have two holes to mount on, I mount on the rear due to aftermarket headers and use of this driveshaft).
To use a C4 driveshaft with the kit you need the C4 automatic driveshaft, a slip yoke that's longer then the Vette one (otherwise it won't go far enough in the transmission. It's a Spicer part #2-3-6081x, the rear flange I got from Granny's (actually got both the front slip and rear flange from Granny's) but I do know it's a Dodge ram peice, sorry no part number available. The front u-joint is Spicer #1310 and the rear is Napa #319. I recommend just bringing your driveshaft to any repuatable shop, have them assemble it and balance it. Once completed it installs right up and allows 1/4" of slop.
Overall it cost me about $150 to pull of which is about $200 less then the aluminum driveshaft that Granny's offers.
Other then that there is no new updates. I'm looking to see the kit arrive today or tomarrow in Nebraska and then alot of progess. Everything else is completed and there. I'll update when I have an update myself.
Thanks for reading and thanks to Frijolee (I think it's the spelling) on the V8RX7 forum for so many part numbers and tips.
To use a C4 driveshaft with the kit you need the C4 automatic driveshaft, a slip yoke that's longer then the Vette one (otherwise it won't go far enough in the transmission. It's a Spicer part #2-3-6081x, the rear flange I got from Granny's (actually got both the front slip and rear flange from Granny's) but I do know it's a Dodge ram peice, sorry no part number available. The front u-joint is Spicer #1310 and the rear is Napa #319. I recommend just bringing your driveshaft to any repuatable shop, have them assemble it and balance it. Once completed it installs right up and allows 1/4" of slop.
Overall it cost me about $150 to pull of which is about $200 less then the aluminum driveshaft that Granny's offers.
Other then that there is no new updates. I'm looking to see the kit arrive today or tomarrow in Nebraska and then alot of progess. Everything else is completed and there. I'll update when I have an update myself.
Thanks for reading and thanks to Frijolee (I think it's the spelling) on the V8RX7 forum for so many part numbers and tips.
10-26-2009, 02:01 PM
#13
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Engine is pretty dirty:
Some elbow polish:
There you can see my headers and engine covers. I gotta admit though, that picture is just sexy. You can also see my Granny's motor mounts attached to the motor.
Engine bay is coming around too. Some paint came off with a pressure washer, but I'm not too bothered. Next summer I plan to have the entire car repainted.
You can also see that I decided to wait out the Hurst shifter and just use that for the time being. It's already on the car (already paid for) and I hear the Hurst shifters are just solid. We'll see how much I like it.
Some elbow polish:
There you can see my headers and engine covers. I gotta admit though, that picture is just sexy. You can also see my Granny's motor mounts attached to the motor.
Engine bay is coming around too. Some paint came off with a pressure washer, but I'm not too bothered. Next summer I plan to have the entire car repainted.
You can also see that I decided to wait out the Hurst shifter and just use that for the time being. It's already on the car (already paid for
) and I hear the Hurst shifters are just solid. We'll see how much I like it.
10-26-2009, 02:13 PM
#14
Staging Lane
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Installed Walbro 255LPH fuel pump.
Installed Hinson MC adapter.
Installed Grannys mounts and sway bar spacers.
Motor installed.
Engine covers installed.
Headers installed.
More coming soon!
Installed Hinson MC adapter.
Installed Grannys mounts and sway bar spacers.
Motor installed.
Engine covers installed.
Headers installed.
More coming soon!
10-26-2009, 02:27 PM
#15
Staging Lane
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Just got an update!
Battery relocated:
Radiator mounts where made:
Other odds and ends like wiring where being tied up, also the plans for a custom gauge panel.
LEDs for the turn signals and high beams with my Autometer gauges.
These guys at Whodyautomotive are just top-notch and I cannot ask for anything more! Beauty!
Battery relocated:
Radiator mounts where made:
Other odds and ends like wiring where being tied up, also the plans for a custom gauge panel.
LEDs for the turn signals and high beams with my Autometer gauges.
These guys at Whodyautomotive are just top-notch and I cannot ask for anything more! Beauty!
10-26-2009, 04:35 PM
#17
Staging Lane
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Nice build! Its actually frustrating to read because it looks like you did all this in a few days - even though I'm sure you've got some serious time invested.. =) Also good to see someone else using SolidWorks!
10-26-2009, 04:44 PM
#18
Staging Lane
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Little update!
Cooling system finished, Speedway Tru-Cool 26"x19" radiator, Spal 16" electric fan, and the rest is a Whody custom shrouding:
Shifter assembly:
And a few things cleaned up:
Cooling system finished, Speedway Tru-Cool 26"x19" radiator, Spal 16" electric fan, and the rest is a Whody custom shrouding:
Shifter assembly:
And a few things cleaned up:
10-26-2009, 04:51 PM
#20
Staging Lane
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Interior coming backtogether (Yes I gotta clean my carpet):
Start of the cockpit:
Start of the exhaust:
New Jantzer ported TB, the big chip on the TB that came with the car bothered me:
Starting to come together:
Start of the cockpit:
Start of the exhaust:
New Jantzer ported TB, the big chip on the TB that came with the car bothered me
:Starting to come together:
