New LSA - Noise in gear - Help!
#1
New LSA - Noise in gear - Help!
Hi All,
I have an LSA crate engine in my ‘72 Chevelle. It’s got a Brian Tooley Stage II cam/upgraded springs/pushrods, 5% ATI pulley (like 1lb boost extra I figure), Holley/Hooker Long tubes/exhaust, Straub trunion upgrade and 4L80E trans (Speartech E38 harness for the setup).
Anyway, fired it for the first time recently, good oil pressure (checked under valve covers too, it’s oiling and all is well there), idles fine (got a very basic base tune from Mike Norris to start with).
Anyway, in park (either at idle or revving engine) there’s no noise (other than exhaust, typical valvetrain noise, etc). But, when I put it in gear (reverse or drive) and start to drive (low speed as I haven’t gotten it fully into the road yet), I get a rattling/squeaking noise. It’s not detonation (not marbles in can sound, I know that sound) and I’ve checked the exhaust clamps, torque converter bolts, header bolts and darn near all other lines/accessories on the car, still does it (makes the noise).
I’ve gone as far as taking each drive belt off and run the car with a light load (in gear), same noise (rules out supercharger, power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor and all belts/pulleys/tensioners, etc).
Whatcha think? It’s driving me crazy. My buddy hopes it’s not internal (he’s hearing it when outside the car, me lightly revving it with foot on brake in gear, from both sides, middle area of engine from what he can tell).
I have an LSA crate engine in my ‘72 Chevelle. It’s got a Brian Tooley Stage II cam/upgraded springs/pushrods, 5% ATI pulley (like 1lb boost extra I figure), Holley/Hooker Long tubes/exhaust, Straub trunion upgrade and 4L80E trans (Speartech E38 harness for the setup).
Anyway, fired it for the first time recently, good oil pressure (checked under valve covers too, it’s oiling and all is well there), idles fine (got a very basic base tune from Mike Norris to start with).
Anyway, in park (either at idle or revving engine) there’s no noise (other than exhaust, typical valvetrain noise, etc). But, when I put it in gear (reverse or drive) and start to drive (low speed as I haven’t gotten it fully into the road yet), I get a rattling/squeaking noise. It’s not detonation (not marbles in can sound, I know that sound) and I’ve checked the exhaust clamps, torque converter bolts, header bolts and darn near all other lines/accessories on the car, still does it (makes the noise).
I’ve gone as far as taking each drive belt off and run the car with a light load (in gear), same noise (rules out supercharger, power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor and all belts/pulleys/tensioners, etc).
Whatcha think? It’s driving me crazy. My buddy hopes it’s not internal (he’s hearing it when outside the car, me lightly revving it with foot on brake in gear, from both sides, middle area of engine from what he can tell).
#2
TECH Senior Member
Hi All,
I have an LSA crate engine in my ‘72 Chevelle. It’s got a Brian Tooley Stage II cam/upgraded springs/pushrods, 5% ATI pulley (like 1lb boost extra I figure), Holley/Hooker Long tubes/exhaust, Straub trunion upgrade and 4L80E trans (Speartech E38 harness for the setup).
Anyway, fired it for the first time recently, good oil pressure (checked under valve covers too, it’s oiling and all is well there), idles fine (got a very basic base tune from Mike Norris to start with).
Anyway, in park (either at idle or revving engine) there’s no noise (other than exhaust, typical valvetrain noise, etc). But, when I put it in gear (reverse or drive) and start to drive (low speed as I haven’t gotten it fully into the road yet), I get a rattling/squeaking noise. It’s not detonation (not marbles in can sound, I know that sound) and I’ve checked the exhaust clamps, torque converter bolts, header bolts and darn near all other lines/accessories on the car, still does it (makes the noise).
I’ve gone as far as taking each drive belt off and run the car with a light load (in gear), same noise (rules out supercharger, power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor and all belts/pulleys/tensioners, etc).
Whatcha think? It’s driving me crazy. My buddy hopes it’s not internal (he’s hearing it when outside the car, me lightly revving it with foot on brake in gear, from both sides, middle area of engine from what he can tell).
I have an LSA crate engine in my ‘72 Chevelle. It’s got a Brian Tooley Stage II cam/upgraded springs/pushrods, 5% ATI pulley (like 1lb boost extra I figure), Holley/Hooker Long tubes/exhaust, Straub trunion upgrade and 4L80E trans (Speartech E38 harness for the setup).
Anyway, fired it for the first time recently, good oil pressure (checked under valve covers too, it’s oiling and all is well there), idles fine (got a very basic base tune from Mike Norris to start with).
Anyway, in park (either at idle or revving engine) there’s no noise (other than exhaust, typical valvetrain noise, etc). But, when I put it in gear (reverse or drive) and start to drive (low speed as I haven’t gotten it fully into the road yet), I get a rattling/squeaking noise. It’s not detonation (not marbles in can sound, I know that sound) and I’ve checked the exhaust clamps, torque converter bolts, header bolts and darn near all other lines/accessories on the car, still does it (makes the noise).
I’ve gone as far as taking each drive belt off and run the car with a light load (in gear), same noise (rules out supercharger, power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor and all belts/pulleys/tensioners, etc).
Whatcha think? It’s driving me crazy. My buddy hopes it’s not internal (he’s hearing it when outside the car, me lightly revving it with foot on brake in gear, from both sides, middle area of engine from what he can tell).
#3
Got it with 8,000 miles on it from an ‘09 Chevy Van. Took it to a trans shop and guy put in a shift kit and went over it lightly. He put it in his test vehicle (guy has an old Chevy Caprice that he can hook just about any trans to to test it). Drove fine, shifted fairly firm (for my liking), but I have a little looser billet converter in it (that “should” lighten to shift firmness a tad, plus being able to adjust the trans via the TCU, that’s later down the line though). From the looks of the trans the shop guy said it appeared in excellent condition (but he didn’t tear the trans down all the way other than to install shift kit and do cursory view of it).
#5
Yes, matches rpm (like it mentioned only in gear). It’s hard to explain the noise (like a tapping/chatter type sound, lol best I can describe it at this point). Engine sounds great at idle and when revved moderately (still fresh, not going crazy on it yet) in park.
#7
I know there are a bunch of possibilities and honestly I’m praying it’s trans/exhaust related. Internal engine (on a new crate motor) is not what I’m looking to deal with at this point (been a LONG time putting this setup in my car, couple years to be exact due to time constraints, $$, etc, etc).
She needs to be driven!!
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#10
To me, that seems like an easy, inexpensive way to help zero in on the issue you're having. Good luck!
#11
Have your transmission guy give a listen to it.
Really hard to diagnosis noises over the internet.
I chased an occasional knocking sound in my truck for years. Turned out being an AC part that wasn't bolted down.
Really hard to diagnosis noises over the internet.
I chased an occasional knocking sound in my truck for years. Turned out being an AC part that wasn't bolted down.
#13
Well, can't post up an audio clip because I can't hear the noise any longer (neither can my buddy who was outside the car when I test drove it briefly).
We checked the converter bolts, flexplate, starter, header bolts and exhaust clamps (again), trans crossmember, trans linkage, driveshaft bolts, etc, etc.
I ended up adding another 1.5 quarts of fluid (reads just into the "hot" hash mark area now on the trans dipstick w/ engine running). Noise is gone. Car has a moderate stall billet converter and I guess it wasn't getting enough fluid causing noise
We checked the converter bolts, flexplate, starter, header bolts and exhaust clamps (again), trans crossmember, trans linkage, driveshaft bolts, etc, etc.
I ended up adding another 1.5 quarts of fluid (reads just into the "hot" hash mark area now on the trans dipstick w/ engine running). Noise is gone. Car has a moderate stall billet converter and I guess it wasn't getting enough fluid causing noise
#14
Did you put some fluid in the converter before installing it ???
Ken
Ken
#15
I did. Although, not a whole bunch (from what I recall, it was some time ago, build has taken some time and trans went in last year). Maybe 1 or 2 quarts (leaning toward 1.5 quarts). I understand you fill it pretty good (I probably didn’t put enough in). Trans has taken 11 quarts so far (shows just into hot hash mark when running now).